[versus rider]

http://www.chemical-records.co.uk/sc/servlet/Info?Track=CX2310

more questions I'm afraid. So I have decided on the design of my ob's, I have a pair of 8" full range drivers, don't know what they are or their parameters but they do sound stunning without any baffles and a pair of eminence alpha 15's, they are going to be mounted in a frame that has no baffle to speak of and if that doesn't work I will add some acrylic baffles as minimalist as possible. I will take some simple measurements with an spl meter and test tones if necesary but will rely on my ears more. If they sound right that will do me. Now, will the behringer crossover do the business, I prefer to go this route as I will be able to make adjustments without purchasing further components for a crossover not knowing if it will work. I will start the cutting this morning and post pics of the frames asap. The idea for these ob's were inspired by polarbears no baffle design. I posted on his thread for his thoughts on his design but he hasn't replied as yet.

[Mr Content]

Sure it will work. I have one, and I used it for a while between my B200's and 2x12 woofers on a big baffle. It was OK, but I found it a bit bright and brittle sound wise. Apart from that it was OK. I use it now to find the best xover point when I am testing.

Mr C

[versus rider]

Sure it will work. I have one, and I used it for a while between my B200's and 2x12 woofers on a big baffle. It was OK, but I found it a bit bright and brittle sound wise. Apart from that it was OK. I use it now to find the best xover point when I am testing.

Mr C

thanks Mr C, I intended to use it for the woofers only and run the 8" drivers full range.

[versus rider]

Ok, I have a picture to post of the first panel cut out roughly, do I have to use an image host like photobucket or can I upload pictures from my pc. I tried photobucket and the image came out sideways and everyone would be able to see all the pictures I have on the site. 

[Mr Content]

thanks Mr C, I intended to use it for the woofers only and run the 8" drivers full range.

Yes that will work OK as well, I did run my system in the early days like this for a short time. 

Mr C

[panomaniac]

I say yes, too. If you are using it for the subs.  The main limitation is that you have only 4th order filters.  Having a choice of 2nd, 3rd or 4th would be nice.  I've found that 3rd order often blends best with the mids above it. YMMV

[Mr Content]

I did a bit of surgery on your pic. I like what you have done here. You could even do some kind of inset in the middle of your baffle. In any case I like it.

Mr C

[versus rider]

I say yes, too. If you are using it for the subs.  The main limitation is that you have only 4th order filters.  Having a choice of 2nd, 3rd or 4th would be nice.  I've found that 3rd order often blends best with the mids above it. YMMV

the behringer may just be a short term thing until I know that this idea works.

[versus rider]

I did a bit of surgery on your pic. I like what you have done here. You could even do some kind of inset in the middle of your baffle. In any case I like it.

Mr C

I was thinking clear acrylic in the middle so as to keep the look. Depending on how things work out acrylic wings may be implemented for the woofer but hopefully not. How did you get that picture. I may pm you other pictures to post for me if thats ok.

[versus rider]

fitted the drivers both connected full range just to get an idea, now need to make another baffle and try with the behringer. All going well I will then make two more baffles and glue two together for a 36mm thick baffle.

[Mr Content]

So we dont have to put our monitors sideways 

[versus rider]

I would like to mount the drivers behind the baffle as in the photo, so the screws will be hidden, this will mean there is 36mm of mdf in front of the driver which I may want to chamfer, would this cause it to act like a front loaded horn or be insignificant. Or should I leave the opening square.

[Mr Content]

Most if they are behind the baffle use a bevel opening. I have not done any work with this, but I have made a few baffles for Bastanis" OB owners, and the mount the wide ranger from the back and put a 30 degree bevel on the opening. So you may want to do something like that.

Mr C

[versus rider]

I have now sanded the baffle edge to the pencil lines ready to use it to cut the remaining pieces accurately with a trim cutter with guide wheel. All the pieces have now been cut from the sheet of mdf. Yesterday I had a quote from a company that would laser cut the 4 pieces of mdf for £ 175 + vat but decided as I have the time to do it myself to spend some of that cost on more tools. If I was making these baffles commercially I probably would go for the laser cutting service as they would be cut perfectly and it would save time.   

[versus rider]

So today I cut the remaining three pieces and trimmed them with the router cutter with guide wheel. I decided not to cut the hole between the driver holes  on the back piece and leave them with a hole in the front so as to keep the original design feature but beef up the baffle more. It will also give a larger baffle area. I will mount the drivers on this rear piece and then add another piece to the back with a larger hole  to allow the drivers to mount on the middle piece.

any thoughts on this so far, Mr C has been very helpful I will say.