[drphoto]

Which glue should I use to construct my H frames, Titebond or construction adhesive? I have Gorrilla glue, but it expands while curing, and I don't have a bunch of woodworking clamps to keep everything tight.

thanks

[mcgsxr]

I have been using Titebond for any and all OB construction over the years, and am happy with it.  I do have 4 clamps that I use, and take my time to assemble, as I don't have that many clamps either!

[drphoto]

Titebond it is. The construction stuff probably wouln't sand if it oozed out.

I can't wait to get these finished now. As much as I love the OB on the BABBs (large flat baffles) I'm hoping for a lot more low mid slam w/ the H.

[sts9fan]

Titebond or Titebond II contract when curing but you will still have to clamp. 

[ebag4]

I have always used Elmers yellow carpenters wood glue, never had a failure.  I have had the wood break before the glue joint when tearing something apart.  Of course you must clamp or fasten the pieces in another way until it dries.

Best,
Ed

[motosapien]

Tightbond is the ticket for MDF.  You only have to clamp for an hour or so too.  Use jam blocks to spread your clamps force.

[WGH]

If you wrap the clamping blocks with masking or clear packaging tape the glue won't sticks to the blocks!

Wayne

[m-fine]

If you wrap the clamping blocks with masking or clear packaging tape the glue won't sticks to the blocks!

Wayne

Yeah I learned that tip too late one time

[Don_S]

Be careful about getting glue where you don't want it to show on the finished product.  Even if you try to wipe it off immediately and think you got it all you will probably be disappointed when you apply the stain and/or finish.  Even sanding sometimes does not get all the glue out of the pores.  If anybody has a trick to getting unwanted glue marks off before finishing I would love to hear about it.

[Vapor Audio]

Which glue should I use to construct my H frames, Titebond or construction adhesive? I have Gorrilla glue, but it expands while curing, and I don't have a bunch of woodworking clamps to keep everything tight.

You need plenty of clamps no matter what glue you use.

Assuming you can cut perfectly square, glue ready lines, use Titebond II.  If not, use Gorilla Glue. 

[Vapor Audio]

If anybody has a trick to getting unwanted glue marks off before finishing I would love to hear about it.

A trick?  Simple ... more sanding

[WGH]

Glue marks usually show up by wiping down the wood with mineral spirits before staining or finishing, then more sanding is the only way to remove the marks.

Gorilla glue has a tendency to get all over everything so if you are experiencing problems with Titebond showing up where it is not supposed to be then stay away from the Gorilla glue.

I use a lot of resorcinol glue which will stain the area around the joint a dark purple so I mask off the wood on both sides of the glue joint. Don't leave the masking tape on overnight because it may pull up the veneer fibers, blue tape is OK to leave on for weeks.

Wayne

[BrianH]

Good reading here ...  http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/The_Truth_About_Polyurethane_Glue/

Gorilla glue is the Monster Cable of the glue industry imo  More advertising than substance.

For any gap of more than 1-2 mm Bondo would probably be better(stronger) as a filler.

Everyone has an opinion, that's mine.