[Ericus Rex]

Do aluminum cartridge mounting screws sound different than steel?  I know about the weight differences between the two but are there sonic differences?

[TheChairGuy]

Do aluminum cartridge mounting screws sound different than steel?  I know about the weight differences between the two but are there sonic differences?

They might...but I wouldn't get hung up on it.

Among the many things to get right in vinyl, I think screw types would be the 50th or so down the list

John

[srb]

Yamamoto Soundcraft sells titanium screws!
 
I think it wouldn't be a bad idea to not have steel or any ferrous screws next to a magnetic cartridge body.  Brass, non-magnetic stainless or aluminum (or titanium!) would be better in that respect.
 
Steve

[woodsyi]

My thought as well.  I think aluminum is used as it's non-magnetic and light.  I suppose hardened plastic would work just as well if you can get machined screws. 

[Scottdazzle]

I'll stick with aluminum.  I had bad luck with hardened plastic and nylon (?) screws in the past.  They tended to loosen up over time, plus it"s easy to strip the thread when tightening down.

[Listens2tubes]

For my Dynavector Karat's threaded body I needed a specific thread not found universally. I found a kit of non ferous (stainless steel?) screws similar to these http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/6884 or maybe it was them? Just made sense to me.

[Wayner]

Ferrous screws and nuts like to go sticking to the cartridge body of a MM. That is why I like aluminum. Now what really gets me is that there are 2 thread pitches involved and 2 screw sizes. I have #3's that are .0855 outside diameter in 2 threads, #3-48 and #3-56, plus #4 screws that are .0958 diameter and come in 2 thread pitches, #4-40 and #4-48. I probably have some metric screws in my little drawer too!

Now the bitch comes when I'm trying my hardest to get a #3-48 screw on a #4-48 nut, or vise-versa. I'll bet there is a scerw size standard throughout the industry, but I don't know what it is. I know the Grado Prestige line has a clearance hole that measures .110 (+/- something even smaller) so either size will work.

I also have a Sumiko that has threaded inserts on the top, but don't have a clue what screw sizes they are either. What a fricken mess.

 

[bentconvert]

The inch and metric thread sizes above are all available in stainless steel from www.mcmaster.com for around $4.00/100. I checked after seeing Dedicated Audio's prices.
The hex wrenches are there too for less than 50 cents each.

No affiliation with McMaster Carr.

[Wayner]

Group Buy? 

[Flyin_V]

You might also try brass, size 2-56, available in small packages at most hardware stores. When I had a turntable, I found the brass to sound smoother with even the best arms/cartridges.

[Ericus Rex]

My Benz takes metric screws, M2.6 X .45.  But this is so close to #3 X 56 (which equals 2.52mm X .454mm) that they're interchangeable.

Brass is an interesting option for screws that I've never seen before!

Ferrous screws and nuts like to go sticking to the cartridge body of a MM. That is why I like aluminum. Now what really gets me is that there are 2 thread pitches involved and 2 screw sizes. I have #3's that are .0855 outside diameter in 2 threads, #3-48 and #3-56, plus #4 screws that are .0958 diameter and come in 2 thread pitches, #4-40 and #4-48. I probably have some metric screws in my little drawer too!

[Ericus Rex]

Oh I'm not getting obsessed about this at all.  My cartridge currently has stainless screws and my counterweight is maxed out.  I even have a bit of lead on the butt end to accomodate my cartridge (I'm missing second counterweight  ).  Weight wise, I need to lighten up the cartridge end and just wondered if aluminum or titanium would be detrimental sonically.

Thanks all!

They might...but I wouldn't get hung up on it.

Among the many things to get right in vinyl, I think screw types would be the 50th or so down the list

John

[beachbum]

brass is the best metal for use in audio systems. cartridges, speakers, feet, and on and on.