Antek PS-3N30 Power Supply for Virtue Amplifiers

cynan · « **on:** 10 Jan 2010, 03:43 am »

Though this might be jumping the gun a bit, I thought it might be useful to have a thread where knowledgeable users can share tips about assembly/enclosure options/etc for the Antek PSU kit (based on the PS-3N30) sanctioned and offered by Virtue.

I'll start with a quesiton: WIth the kit offered from Virtue, is anything else required other than an AC power cord? What about a fuse module - required? Recommended?

Also, I caught these two versions of this kit on ebay. The former seems to be a more compact form facter, and perhaps and older layout. Aside from the layout, can anyone tell me an advantage of one over the other? Note that the Virtue kit includes the DC power cord and barrel connector, while these bare-bones versions from Antek do not. What the heck is Gecko anyway?

Note: The first indicates a 200VA transformer, but this is certainly a typo and should read 300VA (as all PS-3N30 are 300VA)

Kit 1: http://cgi.ebay.com/30V-300W-CNC-Mill-Router-Power-Supply-Gecko-Driver_W0QQitemZ370306510052QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5637fcece4

Kit 2: http://cgi.ebay.com/30V-300W-CNC-Mill-Router-Power-Supply-Gecko-Driver_W0QQitemZ250539218368QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a554d15c0

Nuuk · « **Reply #1 on:** 10 Jan 2010, 12:33 pm »

Looks to me like you will need a suitable case for a start. Then I would suggest an IEC inlet socket that comes with its own mains switch and fuse holder. I would then suggest a 3.15 amp slow-blow fuse. Note slow blow not fast blow!

You need wiring off course, probably taken from an existing mains lead (strip of the cover and take out the three wires inside). Either solder the wires to the IEC socket or use crimp terminal connectors. The earth connection is meant to be crimped rather than soldered anyway.

If you use a metal case, you must connect it to mains earth. I suggest an umbilical lead to your amp that should pass out through the case using a suitable rubber grommet.

I do not recommend people working with mains voltages if they are not proficient but you can find out much more about power supplies at

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/nuukspot/decdun/gainclone_psu.html

That bit about the light-bulb tester is very important!

PSB Guy · « **Reply #2 on:** 10 Jan 2010, 06:26 pm »

Personally, not being very comfortable poking around with potentially dangerous electrical current, I just opted for the assembled JT Dynamic Power version of the Antek PS. I did open up my One to change the fuse to accommodate the 30v/130w switching supply, but that's as far as I'll go, I think, but one never says never, eh?

virtue · « **Reply #3 on:** 10 Jan 2010, 09:36 pm »

This is indeed a useful thread and y'all are encouraged to both be very careful with assembly and to buy from Antek directly if you prefer. We'll be bundling a DC cable with our Antek kit but the onus of assembly is still on you and there are plenty of parts to buy and opportunities to screw up.

The turn-key solution for US customers is the Astron supply, which you can also buy elsewhere, or the JTDP assembled unit which will give you another 2 volts out of the box (Astron can be adjusted up internally), half the weight, and a prettier case.

I'm not going to pick winners in this respect and as with speakers, would prefer to be neutral. It's an area where the sonics of your system will vary quite dramatically and picking the right supply will be a personal decision that will depend on many things including price, convenience, power conditioning, speaker sensitivity, etc.

We'll continue to provide choices that represent high value and respect the wishes of our partners to have their products resold by us, or not.

virtue · « **Reply #4 on:** 11 Jan 2010, 04:09 am »

Nick (nuuk), shame on me for not having a soft-start for you sooner. Jeeze... you're going to love that ONE powered by one of your over-the-top gainclone (bah!) supplies.

Nuuk · « **Reply #5 on:** 11 Jan 2010, 09:54 am »

Don't worry Mr CBW!

Because of the snow here I am behind on ordering the parts that I need to complete my second (and much larger) V1/V2 supply. The ox is slow but the earth is patient as they say!

May I re-iterate what Seth says about different power supplies being like different speakers. They do change the sound of the amp, and therefore the system. So what is 'best' in one system, may not be so in another.

virtue · « **Reply #6 on:** 11 Jan 2010, 06:22 pm »

I look forward to hearing your thoughts on the Paul Hynes supply, Nick. That should be one for our customers to consider as well.

cynan · « **Reply #7 on:** 11 Jan 2010, 08:12 pm »

Quote from: Nuuk on 10 Jan 2010, 12:33 pm

Looks to me like you will need a suitable case for a start. Then I would suggest an IEC inlet socket that comes with its own mains switch and fuse holder. I would then suggest a 3.15 amp slow-blow fuse. Note slow blow not fast blow!

First, thank you for participating in this discussion; from that link you provided, you seem to possess exceeding knowledge and experience with audio PSUs.

I would like to ask a couple of questions - and please forgive my ignorance in advance: The fuse in the IEC socket is to protect against surges in input AC current, correct? Would you know if the fuse modules that accompany the Antek PSUs (the ones that sit atop the terminal PCB) accomplish the same function? Or do these protect against output DC current surges (secondary fuses on the DC rails)? If the fuses in this module do govern input AC current, can these modules be used in place of a fuse in the IEC socket?

Also, reading through your webpage, I noticed that you state that large capacitors will potentially rob some of the midrange detail (your example uses 10,000 uFs - which is what comes with the Antek PS-3N30). Do you think the capacitors in the PS-3N30 are too large?

Finally, do you think that the 300W PS-3N30 is already overkill? Would the 400W or 500W versions of this PSU add any benefit in your experience? If these are overkill, what is the limitting factor? The tripath chip itself - or other factors in the DC pathway (such as the small gauge DC cable that will be compatible with the barrel connectors on the Virtue amplifiers)

virtue · « **Reply #8 on:** 11 Jan 2010, 08:21 pm »

We have our own 22,000 uF tank caps in the circuit which reduce the need for such caps on the PSU presumably. On the new ONE.2 we also have 330uF FM caps and 4.7uF XLR caps across the power traces to the output chips. This multi-tiered strategy is designed to alleviate the problem mentioned and has been "validated" on ICEPower amps and others. However, not every system seems to need it... Sensation uses a 4-pole, low ESR tank cap exclusively, and the mids/highs are just fine.

Nuuk · « **Reply #9 on:** 13 Jan 2010, 09:15 am »

Quote

The fuse in the IEC socket is to protect against surges in input AC current, correct? Would you know if the fuse modules that accompany the Antek PSUs (the ones that sit atop the terminal PCB) accomplish the same function? Or do these protect against output DC current surges (secondary fuses on the DC rails)? If the fuses in this module do govern input AC current, can these modules be used in place of a fuse in the IEC socket?

The fuse is there to protect the mains lead. If there is one on the input of the PSU module, you won't need another one.

Quote

Also, reading through your webpage, I noticed that you state that large capacitors will potentially rob some of the midrange detail (your example uses 10,000 uFs - which is what comes with the Antek PS-3N30). Do you think the capacitors in the PS-3N30 are too large?

Those comments apply specifically to the Gainclone type amps. I currently use 10K+6K8+ smaller bypass caps in my own V1/V2 PSU.

Quote

Finally, do you think that the 300W PS-3N30 is already overkill? Would the 400W or 500W versions of this PSU add any benefit in your experience? If these are overkill, what is the limiting factor? The tripath chip itself - or other factors in the DC pathway (such as the small gauge DC cable that will be compatible with the barrel connectors on the Virtue amplifiers)

Yes, for the V1/V2 I would say that 300W is probably overkill. I'm currently using an 80VA transformer in my own PSU and it works very well. I will be using larger transformers (300VA) in my next PSU but only because that is what I have to hand (at the voltages I need). When you start going larger than 300VA, and adding large reservoir caps, then it is time to start thinking about a soft-start unit for the PSU, as well as the amp, and everything starts getting over-complicated.

The bottom line is that these amps are very efficient and don't need the monster PSU's that other types of amp may require!

Nuuk · « **Reply #10 on:** 13 Jan 2010, 08:24 pm »

Sorry, the fuse isn't there to protect the mains lead, but the same still applies, ie if there is a fuse on the input of the PSU module, you don't need another.

virtue · « **Reply #11 on:** 27 Jan 2010, 10:36 pm »

Nick,
Can you tell me what you discovered with the Hynes supply? You're THE authority on the ONE/TWOs so nobody can give a before and after like you can!
Seth

Nuuk · « **Reply #12 on:** 29 Jan 2010, 08:54 pm »

I can't say too much about the PH supply Seth as it is the subject of a forthcoming review on TNT.

Suffice to say here that it is a country mile ahead of a basic linear supply! I would seriously doubt that there is a better supply for the V1/V2!

The regulated supply, using the Pedja Rogic discrete regulator is also very good but I have not yet compared both supplies in the same system.

virtue · « **Reply #13 on:** 11 Feb 2010, 07:32 am »

Our cable guru Jason (the JT of JT Dynamic Power) sent me some photos today of his smokin' little Antek rig. It's gorgeous and well built. Check it out.

James T. got one of these girls a few days ago and I look forward to his reports. Of course, he sent Jason some crazy expensive power cable to hard-wire into it... (that's why we love you James). Others will get a Schurter IEC socket on the back - put whatever IEC terminated goodness you want back there.

On a related note, we're going to do a "modder" program with the Sensation M451. I'll pay (eat the cost) to send the units to Jason and you can work out with him whatever upgrades you want... and then he'll ship you the modded amp. You can change the input caps, wiring, posts, pot, whatever. Jason does solid work and won't rip you off. You can even send him the parts and he'll just solder-em. Same with your ONEs and TWOs..

PSB Guy · « **Reply #14 on:** 11 Feb 2010, 06:03 pm »

Sweet lookin' power supply! Great work Jason, can't wait to hook one up...

Jason T · « **Reply #15 on:** 11 Feb 2010, 06:20 pm »

thanks Cornelis
I worked hard to fit it all in there

here is a picture of the final version for you guys.

Welborne · « **Reply #16 on:** 11 Feb 2010, 07:12 pm »

My dear friend helped me on the Virtue Two mod and i collected the aamp tonight. Will get a chance to listen to it before the CNY. Mod included the following:

1) Volume pot changed to 20k smd step attenuator. I manage to find one seller here in Hong Kong that sells exactly what i need, with the right "d" shaft type so i can still use the orignal virtue knob.

2) input coupling caps with ultra resolution (and expensive) Aura-Teflon 0.1uf installed as 80hz high pass network and switchable to (2.3uf Auricap + Aura-Teflon).

3) Internal wires connecting to speaker terminal changed to single crystal copper "OHNO" wires available from Audience.

I have high expectation on the Aura-teflon. I like lots of details and harmonics, especially on violin recordings. Let's see...

gcos · « **Reply #17 on:** 11 Feb 2010, 07:17 pm »

U techies are incredible !!! no pic of the front panel !! please Jason let's see that brushed aluminum.....

virtue · « **Reply #18 on:** 11 Feb 2010, 07:23 pm »

Coleman - good stuff! Just remember that those Audience teflon caps take years to break in. The ones dug up at Giza still require break-in. As for the front of the JT supply, I hear that black annodize is the new hairline brush. In the quantities JT was ordering, brushing was just not an option.

PS - that Ohno wire from Audience smokes.

Jason T · « **Reply #19 on:** 11 Feb 2010, 07:32 pm »

here is the front anyways