[PeterL]

I am finished with the soldering and ready to put the board in the Lansing case, but have printed several different "DRILL GUIDE" PDF's, all supposedly for the Cornet, yet none of them line up with the holes on the lansing lid, or the stand-offs. 

Is there one specific PDF file, and if so, is it printed at a special ratio?  I assumed the drill guide was simply securely laid down, center-punched, and drilled as marked.

thanks, Pete

[Bill Epstein]

You must be scaling the print-out. The PDF on the website works fine for me.

http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/clarinetdrill.pdf

[PeterL]

OK Bill I'll try the link at 100%, let you know how it turns out.

[JimK]

Pete,

Did you figure-out how to properly countersink the stand-offs? And/or were you able to reach Jim?

[PeterL]

No luck with Tubes, but I'll retry him today for info about the RCA wiring on the board.   I am having printer issues here, so a day or so delay on drillinig.  One of my printed sheets (the one I folded up and carried around town for 2 weeks) lines up perfectly with the standoff marks, but is off on the notched cut-outs on the edges.  I guess I'll just reprint that and use a caliper to double check distances.

I'll post here in a few days, hopefully completed pics with thanks to all assisting.
Pete

[Bill Epstein]

IIRC, the template is off a 'steenth' or so on the chassis screw hole locations. Close is close enough to keep everything in place as long as the stand-off hole marks are correct.

What are your issues with countersinking and RCAs?

[PeterL]

I got a bit confused reading the schematic, and how to wire the left/right  input and output RCA's correctly.  I am using upgraded plugs. Where do I solder the right channels?  The center hole on the board is the common rca ground, do the right channels both go to the outside of the board, and L to the inside lines on the board on each side?

[Bill Epstein]

do the right channels both go to the outside of the board, and L to the inside lines on the board on each side?

That seems right. All that matters is that input side and output side match, the board doesn't care about left/right or violins and cellos.

[tubesforever]

Bill is right, it doesn't matter as long as you keep the same orientation.  Looking at the board from the component side, I use the outside trace on the right side of the board for right and this goes to the inside trace on the left side of the board from my memory. 

I have had a tough time with the drill guide as well.  Now I drill out the stereo mono switch hole.  Mount the board to this point of the casework and measure out the distance for the stand offs.  This way I  know it will be perfect.  I use a business card or two thickness between the front edge of the board and the front face of the Cornet or Clarinet case. 

I also have had some issues with the tube sockets being centered.  I now drill out to about 3/4 inch, check the alignment.  Sand or file it out to match up and finish the work with the step drill.   

You can use a permanent black marker on the holes and bevels to get a professional looking case.   

If you are counter sinking for the stand offs, which I did on mine.  Its best to use a drill press with a plunge stop.  That way you can carefully mock up the first one, set the depth and cut the rest to match.  If you do this by hand then go slowly and carefully. 

[PeterL]

Well, I went for it, got all the holes drilled in the top plate.  Taped the sheet on, made all my centerpuch marks and went from there.  Used the blue tape to prevent any scratching.  I drilled the standoffs first, then the rest.  Was pretty easy using the large step bit and wood and clamps.  Now for the front, and back.

thanks guys for the encouragment and advice, Pete