[drphoto]

As some of you know I'm running the OB servos in large flat baffles. On Danny's advice I'm going to employ H frames, essentially the lower portion of the Venue.

A few questions.

1) I assume, the push/pull drivers are wired out of phase for both power and servo....correct? (ie: red to black)

2) What wire should I use? Right now for the 'mules' I've been using a generic braided 14 ga. speaker wire from Home Depot. I would a assume an expensive audio cable isn't needed, but is there something better?

3) Should I solder the speaker leads to the drivers? The spring loaded terminals seem a bit iffy. Would you then rig up some sort of binding post to connect the whole thing to the amp? Hardwired all the way back to the amp just isn't practical.

4) I'm guessing I should seal up the hole required to route the wire from the front fire driver to the rear fire, which would have to go through the baffle w/ silicone or something.

5) How much No-Rez required?

6) Should the cabinets be placed on spikes?

7) Any thoughts on a simple way to make/ mount grills? I don't mind seeing the driver cones, but I'm not really enamored w/ seeing the back of the driver, plus the NoRez. I'm cool w/ either cloth or that punched metal that you see on some guitar amps.

Thanks for any help,

joe

[TRADERXFAN]

You have to keep the servo in series, drivers in parallel. So you will have to pay attention when you then invert one driver, to reverse that properly.
I wouldn't worry about special wire for this.

I used a drill to make a hole through the baffle to run wires. I just drilled 2 holes close together but not overlapping to run some 12 ga wires.  The drill bit was almost the same size as the wire and it barely slid through. Being that this isn't sealed box, I wouldn't worry too much about siliconing afterward.

I wouldn't solder the wires.

-Tony

[drphoto]

Tony, I'm confused. (of course, I go through life that way)

I thought parallel meant red to red (let's keep it simple). Which is how all are wired now, as they all fire 'front'.

I was assuming when one fires to the rear, the VC would be wired out of phase (red to black).

I wasn't sure about the servo.

You make it sound the opposite. VC red to red and servos red to black.

[dBe]

Tony, I'm confused. (of course, I go through life that way)

I thought parallel meant red to red (let's keep it simple). Which is how all are wired now, as they all fire 'front'.

I was assuming when one fires to the rear, the VC would be wired out of phase (red to black).

I wasn't sure about the servo.

You make it sound the opposite. VC red to red and servos red to black.

When one driver is facing the opposite direction all of the connections are opposite, too. That is the easy way to think of it.  Just reverse the connections to the driver you see the rear of and you will be fine.  This means the servo connection, too.

Opposite facing is opposite polarity to remain in phase, OK?

 

Dave

[Danny Richie]

1) I assume, the push/pull drivers are wired out of phase for both power and servo....correct? (ie: red to black)

Yep, the one facing the other way needs the polarity of both the driver and servo coils reversed.

2) What wire should I use? Right now for the 'mules' I've been using a generic braided 14 ga. speaker wire from Home Depot. I would a assume an expensive audio cable isn't needed, but is there something better?

How much difference you notice in wire quality will go hand and hand with how high you let them play.

3) Should I solder the speaker leads to the drivers? The spring loaded terminals seem a bit iffy. Would you then rig up some sort of binding post to connect the whole thing to the amp? Hardwired all the way back to the amp just isn't practical.

The spring loaded binding posts are just fine.

I hard wire them to a female SpeakOn connector mounted to the back of the frame. I then mount the wiring from the amp to a male SpeakOn connector. Then it is easy to disconnect them as needed. You have to use the 4 pole SpeakOn's of coarse.

4) I'm guessing I should seal up the hole required to route the wire from the front fire driver to the rear fire, which would have to go through the baffle w/ silicone or something.

I do.

5) How much No-Rez required?

Cover everything and it really helps a lot.

6) Should the cabinets be placed on spikes?

That helps too.

7) Any thoughts on a simple way to make/ mount grills? I don't mind seeing the driver cones, but I'm not really enamored w/ seeing the back of the driver, plus the NoRez. I'm cool w/ either cloth or that punched metal that you see on some guitar amps.

MDF frames works well.

[drphoto]

Got it. thanks