[Light-Echo]

I've read through quite a few of the forums but haven't come across a discussion on the best method, or best steps to take in wiring the N3 during it's build. (If I've missed one please direct me there!)

My step father and I have decided to get together and do the build. Well. Actually he'll be doing most of the work as he has all the woodworking skills and tools. And he's an electrical engineer. The only thing I might really get to do is wire them to the amps. Especially since he lives on the other side of the country. (I'm pretty sure that I could find someone locally to build the cabinets, but we'd thought this would be fun to do).

Are there any pics showing the wiring and the binding posts being installed along with how best to do the cross-overs?

Maybe I'll actually get to put the speakers in at least!

Regards
Dave

[Light-Echo]

I'll be going with the SoniCaps, Cardas posts, and JPS wiring if any of that makes a difference.

Regards
Dave

[Nick77]

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=74885.msg703841#msg703841

[Light-Echo]

Thx Nick

[Danny Richie]

So long as the inductors are not facing the same way, you can do the layout just about any way that you want.

[Light-Echo]

Where is a good location for the cross-over? Is there any concern with it's proximity to any of the speakers? It would seem that if it were desirable to have any sort of access after the cabinet is built, mounting it on "brace D" would be a good location.

Dave

[corndog71]

You could also go external.

[Danny Richie]

I mount it on the back wall right behind the lower woofer.

[Light-Echo]

Well, there was an 'aha' moment ... or maybe a 'duh' moment.
So if you mount your cross-over up there, might as well mount the posts there also. Then you can work on the lot with the cabinet already built.

Corndog  If you mount it externally on an N3, what method would you use to wire the 3 separate +/- leads to the speakers through the cabinet? Another three sets of binding posts?

Dave

[corndog71]

You only need 2 pairs of wires as the woofers are wired in parallel.  I would use a speakon connector mounted to the cabinet because then you can tie both pairs of wires from the drivers to it.  Then from the speakon connection the wires outside of the speaker can go to each filter.  The binding posts are attached to the input of each filter.  This way you know which part conects to the speaker and which part connects to your amp.  Plus if you were ever to sell the speakers this would ensure accurate connections.

This would be better than using binding posts between the speaker and the crossovers because there's no chance of mistakenly running a full signal to the drivers.  If you separate the tweeter crossover from the woofer crossover you could also biamp them.

You have a lot of options.  It's up to you. 

[Danny Richie]

My advise is a little different.

I would not use the SpeakOn connectors on anything playing higher than 200Hz. They are just not that good in the quality department. They are not made with Copper or Brass. They are just a steel clamping mechanism. I stock a bunch of them for use with subs.

Externally mounting the crossover requires 10 pairs of binding posts. You have a pair going to the crossover box, two pairs coming out of it, and two pairs on the speaker. Going with a decent quality binding post will add up to some serious change. With the good Vampire posts that comes to about $200.

I'd go for mounting it on the wall behind the lower woofer.

[Light-Echo]

Thanks Corndog and Danny. I see there are a lot of possibilities and it's nice having your input.

Danny. You have no serious concerns over having the the cross-over parts built so close to each other as long as it's laid out with nothing parallel (ala some of Seans pics I've seen here)? I am assuming actually that since we do go to extra lengths upgrading to Sonicaps, JPS Wire, and Cardas posts, each that add incrementally better performance, that you have very little concern?

Also, Where do you, or would you, mount the binding post on the N3

Thx a bunch!

Dave

[Danny Richie]

So long as the inductors are turned different directions then it really doesn't matter how close any of the other parts are from each other. A little space between the inductors doesn't hurt either.