Painting Speaker Cabs.

AudioSoul · « **on:** 27 Dec 2009, 05:13 pm »

I built some cabs for my Audio Nirvana Super 8 drivers out of birch plywood. I want to paint them. Has anyone painted birch plywood cabs? Any pictures? I dont know if it is more work to paint or just vaneer over them. Thanks for any comments

FullRangeMan · « **Reply #1 on:** 27 Dec 2009, 05:59 pm »

Hi,
As a FR radiates bass,mid and hi frequencies inside and out the box, there is a lot of resonances inside this box.
For less resonance you can paint or dye inside the box with matte black paint or pigment to reduce resonances.
I do not know what is better oil paint or pigment, a friend of mine has used black paint with success is a subwoofer.

Out side of the box I like to cover the front baffle with 10mm felt, for plain the treble diffractions, a nice effect on the music.
The pro audio cabinets use to be all covered with felt, for additional mid/treble attenuation.

mightym · « **Reply #2 on:** 27 Dec 2009, 11:24 pm »

Fill and sand any imperfections, sand to 220 grit.

Apply a "spit coat" of either shellac, or polyurethane. ( a spit coat is used to seal the pores in the wood, and consists of 1/2 shellac or poly plus 1/2 thinner Use denatured alcohol for the shellac, and whatever the mfg reccommends for the poly, I use minwax, and mineral spirits.

Sand again w/220.

Repeat spit coat.

Sand to 400/600.

Apply paint of your choice, until you're happy with the finish, sanding as needed.

This recipe works for me, YMMV

John

chrisby · « **Reply #3 on:** 29 Dec 2009, 04:33 am »

My point of view would be that provided that you're thrilled enough with their sound, the choice to paint or veneer would be entirely a matter of aesthetics / your choice (or the missus?). It's probably less total labour (but higher material costs) to veneer and finish with a simple clear coat, than the steps required for a high grade paint finish on plywood. Both require a fair degree of time, and in the case of applying the veneer, a slightly different skill set than for painting alone. Of course if you have to buy all the products for a quality paint finish, the cost can easily approach that of a sheet or 2 of common veneers.

I personally prefer the look of a veneered wooden cabinet, and my only experience attempting an instrument grade paint finish (on MDF, which is much easier to paint than plywood)was not a huge success.

AudioSoul · « **Reply #4 on:** 29 Dec 2009, 06:03 pm »

Quote from: chrisby on 29 Dec 2009, 04:33 am

My point of view would be that provided that you're thrilled enough with their sound, the choice to paint or veneer would be entirely a matter of aesthetics / your choice (or the missus?). It's probably less total labour (but higher material costs) to veneer and finish with a simple clear coat, than the steps required for a high grade paint finish on plywood. Both require a fair degree of time, and in the case of applying the veneer, a slightly different skill set than for painting alone. Of course if you have to buy all the products for a quality paint finish, the cost can easily approach that of a sheet or 2 of common veneers.

I personally prefer the look of a veneered wooden cabinet, and my only experience attempting an instrument grade paint finish (on MDF, which is much easier to paint than plywood)was not a huge success.

Thanks for the response. Your opinion kinda mirrors what my gut feeling is about what to finish the cabs. Although I have the capability to both paint and vaneer. I think I will stick with the vaneer. Sometimes you just have to hear it from someone else. Thanks, David.......

mightym · « **Reply #5 on:** 30 Dec 2009, 12:12 am »

Don't forget, even after you apply the veneer, you will still have the same steps to finish the veneer, as to paint.

chrisby · « **Reply #6 on:** 1 Jan 2010, 12:52 am »

Quote from: mightym on 30 Dec 2009, 12:12 am

Don't forget, even after you apply the veneer, you will still have the same steps to finish the veneer, as to paint.

well, OK, I just get lazy and spray a few (usually 3) coats of nitro-cellulose lacquer, hand sanded between coats. Usually takes less than an 8 hr shift in the shop to finish ( try and line up other projects to juggle, since most of this time is waiting for the product to dry sufficiently for next step) .

mightym · « **Reply #7 on:** 1 Jan 2010, 01:39 am »

Also why it take me a week to 10 days to finish a project, Sand and apply, wait to dry......

Sand and apply, wait to dry......

Unless it's rattle can... wait 1/2 hr, spray on another coat.

( I try to have another project to work on too )