[gprro]

Finally going to guild my OB-7's! I need some recommendations for a soldering station and cheap clamps. Looking around $50 for soldering. Think I know where to get clamps, but if anyone has suggestions...
Whats the best glue for the job also?

Thanks,
Giyan

[S Clark]

This is an unbelievably screaming deal on a soldering station. $12 on sale!!

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=374-100&utm_source=Parts-Express&utm_medium=Flash+Panel&utm_content=stahlstation+12-09-2009&utm_campaign=Home+Page+Flash+Panel

Take the money you save a buy a couple of nice Bessey clamps.  Any decent wood glue will be stronger than the MDF itself.

[TRADERXFAN]

congrats!
Titebond II wood glue is what I used with great results. Not sure if wood glue differs that much though.

Soldering iron stahl from parts express worked well for small parts, but I used a heavier one on the binding posts.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=374-100

Do you have a flat pack, or are cutting these yourself? Remember to get some square clamps to keep alignment.

-Tony

[gprro]

Flat pack from RAW that I've had for a couple years I think. The crossovers were put together by Danny a while back, have the xbl woofs. Really just need to glue and finish them. Was thinking of maybe upgrading a cap or two in the x-over if worth it, and setting up the crossover for external. I would have to de-solder the connecting wires, and add more length. Don't know if thats worth the trouble though.

Also have to do the av123 x series encore+ upgrade for the mtm's and center. May get a better cap or two for the midwoof also.

I'm a complete solder noob

[dgshtav]

I was recommended and got the Bessey/Gross Stabil pipe clamps from here. I'm very happy with mine.

A bit expensive in terms of absolute $$, but a very good value relatively speaking when you compare them to other bar clamp options. If you are looking to buy many, then call them up and see if they can give a price break.

Home Depot carries a similar design as well.

Pipe has to be bought separately and is about ~$1.30 a foot (cut to size and threaded) at Home Depot/Lowes.

[Bob in St. Louis]

I bought the exact same soldering station as Scott suggested. Just got it in the mail yesterday. I've not plugged it in yet, but it does look and feel solid. I was worried it was going to be a light weight crappy piece of plastic junk, but am impressed so far. I did get the extra package of tips. They look pretty decent too.

If you're going to solder something worthwhile, then you don't want to use the roll of hardware store solder your Father gave you a couple decades ago.
Get something nice.
On a recommendation (by a VERY well respected AC associate/sponsor), I bought a 20' roll of Cardas Quad Eutectic Silver Solder for about $4 on Ebay. For the price, you can't beat that. There are MUCH more expensive solders out there. Four dollars for 20' is almost free.

Also. Being a bit of a "solder noob", you might want to solder some practice pieces before you practice on your XO pieces. You don't want to trash your good stuff.

Bob

EDIT: Titebond II is great.

[Voncarlos]

Here's a couple of interesting tests on glue and glue joints done by an interesting engineer.
http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue.html
http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/index.html

[BrianH]

My thoughts ...

As many have said Titebond II is the way to go. Titebond I and III are not the same and whats good for a particular use has nothing to do with the numbers. Glue doesn't use the Spinal Tap theory.

Use Gorilla glue to repair Bose speakers.   There is a place for it but not on speakers, imo.

Biggest mistake new solderers make is too much heat and too much solder. Also smaller tips are a good thing. Solder joints are shiny!

Get the Cardas solder. tin, lead, silver, copper 61/35/3/1 are the percentages. Cardas quad eutectic silver solder (8mm/20awg/.032in) has a melting temperature of 338F/170C.

Heat sinks are your friend!  Cheapo crocodile clips work just peachy. You can easily save your expensive parts or speaker with a crocodile clip in the right place to absorb the heat.

Those are my opinions. Use them as you will.

Brian

[S Clark]

There is one application where I prefer Gorilla glue. With internal braces, I may need to slightly undersize by 1/32" one to make it slide in.  Gorilla Glue will expand to fill the gap.  Do a dry assembly of your flat pack.  I have had an ex-AC cabinet builder send me a CNC cut flat pack that was much more poorly cut than if I had done it on my table saw.  If you have any gaps, use Gorilla Glue. It usually is nearly as strong as a good yellow glue.

[dgshtav]

I'm building the LS-9s.

I started out with the Titebond II glue but soon realized that for some of the joints (especially putting together the 11 braces and side panels), I needed slightly longer open times than Titebond II afforded.

I switched to Titebond III and I'm doing good.

In addition to longer open times, moisture resistance is also an important criteria for me. I got that as a bonus with Titebond III.

If your project allows you to and that you can move fast with the joinery, then Titebond I/II should work just as fine and save you some money over Titebond III.

The cheapest I saw on the shelf was Elmers but unfortunately I couldn't find much info on the open times on Elmers. The sales associate at Lowes was not much of a help either as the best he could offer was a guess!

[Meataxe]

I bought the exact same soldering station as Scott suggested. Just got it in the mail yesterday. I've not plugged it in yet, but it does look and feel solid. I was worried it was going to be a light weight crappy piece of plastic junk, but am impressed so far. I did get the extra package of tips. They look pretty decent too.

If you're going to solder something worthwhile, then you don't want to use the roll of hardware store solder your Father gave you a couple decades ago.
Get something nice.
On a recommendation (by a VERY well respected AC associate/sponsor), I bought a 20' roll of Cardas Quad Eutectic Silver Solder for about $4 on Ebay. For the price, you can't beat that. There are MUCH more expensive solders out there. Four dollars for 20' is almost free.

Also. Being a bit of a "solder noob", you might want to solder some practice pieces before you practice on your XO pieces. You don't want to trash your good stuff.

Bob

EDIT: Titebond II is great.

Bob, is it universal voltage (110-240v)? I'll keep an eye out for the Cardas solder.

Cheers!

[Bob in St. Louis]

Meataxe,
No, sorry. It's 110volt station only.

Regarding the Cardas solder, > HERE'S a link to the Ebay seller I bought it from. I've not received it yet, so I can't speak of how well it works. They sell 5' rolls for 0.99, so it's a no-risk trial.
I have no affiliation and have never used them before this purchase.

I use Gorilla Glue with very porous woods when I'm doing butt joints. Other than that, I'll use Titebond II

Bob

[bregez]

We have a few of those $12 dollar stations at work and they perform like a $12 dollar solder station.  The temperature control on them fluctuates quite a bit.  If you plan on only using the station for a few occasional projects it?s a good buy.  But if you foresee future projects you may want to invest in a in a Hakko 936 (cost is around 70 USD).  These are great, bulletproof stations that will allow somebody with novice soldering skills to make decent solder joints.  As for the solder, if you are in a pinch Radio Shack (Item 64-035) has some silver bearing solder that flows good and is easy to use.

Brad

[gprro]

Thanks for the input all 

I did find a couple stations I was thinking about a while back.
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6438

Think they'll be noticeably better than the parts express, or also not as good as the Hakko's?
They come with a free gift too if i buy a couple tips
wonder if the multimeter is good enough for biasing my tubes?

Solder wise, the x-overs are done. I just need to terminate to the speakers and posts. I do have the solder Danny included with the kit. Have a decent amount of it.

[S Clark]

Thanks for the input all 

I did find a couple stations I was thinking about a while back.
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6438

 I do have the solder Danny included with the kit. Have a decent amount of it.

I have that circuit specialist soldering station and have been happy with it for several years. 

[BrianH]

We all forgot to mention, don't forget the Ninja!!

Danny has mentioned here before about sending his crossovers to the Ninja for assembly. It's an option anyway.

[Meataxe]

Thanks Bob!

[gprro]

Back after Christmas! Between the two from circuit specialists, which one should I get? What tips also? Figure I'll need a couple different sizes.

Am I OK with the really cheap pipe clamps also?  They are only being used for building speakers. Figure I'll need some deeper bar clamps also though.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37056

Bulid thread coming soon...