Thank you all!
Response to "dnewman": Yes, I saw those two pins to ground on the schematic, but I didn't know the pin designator for the socket/charge pump. Is this a "standard" I don't know about, or did I simply miss it somewhere?
For each IC package type -- and there are MANY -- there are standards (some de facto as in the case of a manufacturer introducing a new package design). For the DIP package (dual inline package), on the top face of the package there is an orientation marker which marks the "front" edge -- a "U" shaped notch along the top face's vertical centerline. There is often but not always also a dot indicating pin 1. Regardless from the front egde, the left front pin is pin 1. The pins then number COUNTER CLOCKWISE. So for your DIP-8 component you have pins 1, 2, 3, and 4 numbering down the left edge and pins 5, 6, 7, and 8 numbering up the left edge.
When ordering parts, you always need to check the package type as common parts may come in several packages: often a through-hole package meant for a board such as the Piccolo where the pins go through holes in the board, and then surface mount components such as Jim uses on the HagDac card. They mount to the surface of the board and often have finer pitch leads (e.g., 0.05 inch spacing instead of the more typical 0.1 inch spacing on DIP packages). These days, there's a much larger variety of IC parts available in surface mount packages than through hole packages. Thus, depending upon what sort of circuits you like building, you may find yourself faced with using some SMDs. (They're actually no big deal as long as they aren't the size of a grain of sand.)
I've never done this before, and I was wondering how everyone got all of the resistors to stay in place for soldering!
Insert, bend leads a tad, then solder. Alternatively, you can solder one or both leads from the top side first and then, optionally, do the bottom side as well. This assumes that all the holes are through-plated with pads top and bottom. Not a safe assumption on home-made, etched boards but the standard these days for commercially manufactured boards.
Obviously, this strategy doesn't work well for some packages.
What I did, both from ignorance as well as caution, is solder-in my resistors one at a time, inspecting and checking each joint as I went, and I can see (now) how this process could be sped-up and made much simpler.
You're building just one and you want to have quality results. So take your time and enjoy. I double check the board and part placement after I place the part. Solder it, check the joins under a magnifying glass with good light, clip the leads, recheck, and often reflow the solder. Slow and careful is a Good Thing.
Enjoy,
Dan
