A 'Giant-Killer' that really is!

Bill Epstein · « **on:** 6 Dec 2009, 12:26 pm »

For about as long as I've been involved in this hobby, I've heard how great is the Rega RB-250. And it is

I had tired of fiddling with the arm lift slippage and damping goo of the SME III and so the Cherry Tonearm in it's simplicity had appeal but I knew I could do better. I had no idea how much better until now. For $300 with Pete Riggle's CCM mod, the RB-250 is killer.

I listened to records all day yesterday and will again, today. I'm hearing detail, tone and texture that rivals what I heard from my ET-2/Virtuoso DTI combo 25 years ago and 25 years ago, that combo sold for almost $3000!

It's also very cool that the Cornet/Clarinet front end is able to show off all this improvement.

roger15ohm · « **Reply #1 on:** 6 Dec 2009, 04:11 pm »

My one and only arm and completed upgrade weeks ago and proud to show off aa. Try color removal and rewiring. What is the Peter R. counterweight range?

Cheers

Bill Epstein · « **Reply #2 on:** 6 Dec 2009, 06:53 pm »

Paint removal seems to have as many detractors as proponents reading Pinkfish, Vinyl Engine, etc. What did you find afterwards? How did the sound change?

I will re-wire at some point but right now I'm just enjoying it. I hadn't intended even to replace the stock stub and weight yet, but the arm was shipped w/o the weight so I put the CCM on. When the stock weight arrives I'll go back so I can listen for any difference the mod makes.

Riggle doesn't give a cartridge weight range for the CCM but the weight is very close to the arm on the relatively light Sonata so I would guess it's a pretty broad range.

http://www.vtaf.com/index.html

bluesky · « **Reply #3 on:** 6 Dec 2009, 11:32 pm »

Hi

Just wondering if there were any issues with removing the arm and tightening it up again with the bearings. I have read that this is critical but have no idea just how tight they have to be.

Thanks

Bluesky

roger15ohm · « **Reply #4 on:** 7 Dec 2009, 05:02 am »

Bill,

frankly speaking I removed the color due to some scratch here and there. Since that time my purpose was rewiring the tonearm, I was struggling of insert new wire from the armbase passing through 2 smaller gormmets.

Plus, that time i notice there is some play in the armtube and realized the copper brass bearing carries was loosen. I took this opportunity to go a bit further but still not removing the bearing. To be neutral, I cant tell either one made this arm excel because both where done in same time.

I personally do still believe the Cardas 33aw direct loom 5 ft long that i'd rewire here makes the different. Quieter, focus imaging and deeper sounstage. Maybe the color removal does abit more musical then over damping?

Bluesky,

Installation was not difficult. Just make sure the armtube was align as central in the armyoke. I let it as loose as possible but 0 level of play. You can tune it both sides. Some guidelines here, hope it helps.

http://www.audiomods.co.uk/regafacts.html

bluesky · « **Reply #5 on:** 7 Dec 2009, 08:24 am »

Hi Roger

Thanks for this information, it also answers my question about the earth wiring. The link is great, I just wish I could afford the tonearm, the craftsmanship is something else and it looks sensational!

Bluesky

Bill Epstein · « **Reply #6 on:** 7 Dec 2009, 12:59 pm »

I'd heard of the Audiomods arm but just now saw the prices. It's an f'ng bargain! Less than an OL-1 shipped to the states. $250 less than an OL Silver! Wonder how it sounds?

Not that I don't trust Enjoy The Music

Swarkybubble · « **Reply #7 on:** 7 Dec 2009, 06:20 pm »

Have a look at www.audioorigami.co.uk.
Johnnie, in Glasgow, is a bit of an expert on many arms but specialising in rewiring, reconditioning, refinishing and generally turning Regas into true giant-killers. Just take a look at his photo gallery.

amandarae · « **Reply #8 on:** 8 Dec 2009, 01:03 am »

Nice stuff!

Pete, like Jim H. is one of the good guys in Audio, and knows what he's doing too.

Is the CCM weight decoupled from the tonearm tube ala Ortofon?

Man, that looks good.

roger15ohm · « **Reply #9 on:** 8 Dec 2009, 02:03 am »

Hai guys,

Both Origami and AudioMod looks great. But If i have the budget, i will surely go for the A.Mod. The mod was far greater then any person can think off. With this package, firstly we don't have to spend on the counterweight. Second, the new structure of armyoke as much more solid. I'd wrote to them once and they do give a better package but due to budget constrain i let go. I think the price is almost equal to other upgrades on rb250 and worth while to write to him on latest promotion?

Bluesky

If you plan to rewire the arm yourself, I would recommend you http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/shopcontent.asp?type=DIN_phono The termination of rca is perfect workmanship. I copied from them. I didn't do great jobs in the earthing. I left the pin in the armtube untouch, and keep the original earth wire inside even while it undergo color removal. The only thing is i used external earth and solder on the original clip board + from the armtube. The braid sheilds from the Cardas remain untouch too.

roger15ohm · « **Reply #10 on:** 8 Dec 2009, 02:19 am »

Bill Epstein,

Anyway, how does the rb match the Grado sound? It looks sexy. I noticed you strech the cart quite far from the headshell. Don't mind run through a bit here? Is it suppose to be that far? I was introduced to use Grado wood too if I want to go bit further. How this cart go along with the Cornet?

Bill Epstein · « **Reply #11 on:** 8 Dec 2009, 03:25 am »

Quote

I noticed you strech the cart quite far from the headshell. Don't mind run through a bit here? Is it suppose to be that far?

I read what I could find before I decided which effective length to use.The Rega recommended 222MM has the Grado at the far limit but few other cartridges, I understand, do that. Neither my DL-103r or Aurum Beta S would be that far forward, therefore I used 222 and not 219MM as some do.

Also I can see having another arm in the future and armboards with the HW-19 are easy to make and switch.

I thought the Hi output Reference Sonata had less of the mid-range purity of the Lo output Statement but that was with the less resolving Cherry Arm. There is little discernible difference between them with the Rega and in fact the Rega brings out more 'goodness' than did the SME III.

Bill Epstein · « **Reply #12 on:** 8 Dec 2009, 03:38 am »

One more thing, for Abe, the Riggle CCM stub threads into the center of a likewise threaded 'coin' which threads into the armtube. With nothing to tighten against, the stub is free to vibrate with the arm but perhaps at different frequencis because it is not tightly coupled. It certainly is not 'de-coupled'. Is it?

amandarae · « **Reply #13 on:** 8 Dec 2009, 03:43 am »

Quote from: roger15ohm on 7 Dec 2009, 05:02 am

Bill,

frankly speaking I removed the color due to some scratch here and there. Since that time my purpose was rewiring the tonearm, I was struggling of insert new wire from the armbase passing through 2 smaller gormmets.

Plus, that time i notice there is some play in the armtube and realized the copper brass bearing carries was loosen. I took this opportunity to go a bit further but still not removing the bearing. To be neutral, I cant tell either one made this arm excel because both where done in same time.

I personally do still believe the Cardas 33aw direct loom 5 ft long that i'd rewire here makes the different. Quieter, focus imaging and deeper sounstage. Maybe the color removal does abit more musical then over damping?

Bluesky,

Installation was not difficult. Just make sure the armtube was align as central in the armyoke. I let it as loose as possible but 0 level of play. You can tune it both sides. Some guidelines here, hope it helps.

http://www.audiomods.co.uk/regafacts.html

Looking at the bottom, the base for the RCA's (wood) is of the same construction as that of the Schick 12" arm! The difference, on the Schick, the wooden stub fits flush inside the arm tube base and held with two non metallic small screws.

Nice tonearm you got there!

Abe

amandarae · « **Reply #14 on:** 8 Dec 2009, 03:49 am »

Quote from: Bill Epstein on 8 Dec 2009, 03:38 am

One more thing, for Abe, the Riggle CCM stub threads into the center of a likewise threaded 'coin' which threads into the armtube. With nothing to tighten against, the stub is free to vibrate with the arm but perhaps at different frequencis because it is not tightly coupled. It certainly is not 'de-coupled'. Is it?

Hi Bill,

Ahh, different than Ortofon. But probably much better than the single screw method use commonly and thus sounds better. Enjoy!

regards,

Abe

steve k · « **Reply #15 on:** 8 Dec 2009, 04:10 am »

Quote

I'd heard of the Audiomods arm but just now saw the prices. It's an f'ng bargain! Less than an OL-1 shipped to the states. $250 less than an OL Silver! Wonder how it sounds?

Not that I don't trust Enjoy The Music

I've been using the Audiomods arm in lieu of my stock RB250 for a couple months now and it beats the stock RB250 hands down. It's the best bass I've ever heard in my vinyl rig, huge soundstage, fat mids and sweet highs. I'm hearing details I never heard before even in old worn rock albums. The Grado Sonata is a really good match for this arm also.
steve

Bill Epstein · « **Reply #16 on:** 8 Dec 2009, 04:45 am »

Obviously, when you specify Grado, Audiomod guy puts a fresh battery in his drill!!!

fatty · « **Reply #17 on:** 8 Dec 2009, 07:20 pm »

Hi Bill,

I noticed somewhere in your posts that you have a Akido. I have not seen allot of reviews on it. Can you tell me how it sounds--and is it a 9 pin or octal version ??

Thanx,
Jack

Bill Epstein · « **Reply #18 on:** 9 Dec 2009, 02:14 am »

Quote

Hi Bill,

I noticed somewhere in your posts that you have a Akido. I have not seen allot of reviews on it. Can you tell me how it sounds--and is it a 9 pin or octal version ??

Thanx,
Jack

It's a dual mono octal with a separate power supply and a sore subject

From day one it has had a low-level hum in the left channel that 2 rebuilds haven't cured. It's the reason I bought and built the Clarinet.

Apart from the hum, my dual octal version with new production Tung-sol 6SN7s is the closest thing I've heard to the 'magical' sound of the CAT SL-1.

fatty · « **Reply #19 on:** 9 Dec 2009, 05:12 am »

Hi Bill,

Thanx for the reply----I'm sorry to hear of your trouble with the Aikido !! Is it a line stage or phono stage ? Have you talked to the guy at glass audio and what's he got to say about the hum ?? That's got to be aggravating as hell---I was really thinking about building the same dual mono octal kit but now I'm having second thoughts.

I have a Chime and I am very pleased with it. It sounds really nice with NOS tubes and there is no noise at all. I really have not had any noise problems with any of my tube gear so I guess I have been lucky.

I would stay on the guy at Glass Audio and get the hum fixed because on paper his design really looks good.

Later,
Jack