[ebenai]

Hi guys:

I need some help. I'd like to soundproof the door of my listening room (typical hollow indoors door). Can someone give some ideas or links? I've seen some acoutic doors but way too expensive.  I'm looking to do it myself.

Thanks

Elie

[Big Red Machine]

I used insulated exterior doors for their solid build and weatherstripped seals all in pre-hung fashion.  You can also add additional absorption to the door using strong magnets, a wood frame with cloth overlay and some 1" 703 or equivalent in the frame.  I found these to be very effective going into my 2 channel room.  They were $105 each at HD 3 years ago.

http://alhull.com/room7/2channelnirvana001_jpg.htm

[Rob Babcock]

I think that exterior doors are the way to go.  From what I've read they're nearly as effective as those made to be "sound proof."  The latter seem very overpriced and not worth the money.

[Nick77]

I was thinking about a heavy exterior door until i discovered these from Masonite (safe N sound). Anyone use these??

http://www.masonite.com/product_newProducts.php#item1

[WGH]

A 1-3/4" solid core flush door is pretty soundproof, paint grade is cheap or you can order an architectural grade with premium veneers. The most important part is the weatherstripping, it has to seal very well because even a tiny gap will let a lot of sound through.

If you go with a pre-hung unit then you have to work with what is included in the package. Going DIY has more options. Pemko sells sound proof weatherstripping, when shopping look for the sound logo . Automatic door bottoms don't need a threshold because they move up when the door is opened and they are the only ones sound rated.


Soundproof weatherstripping

Sound proof door bottoms

I have not seen a Masonite Safe n Sound door but it looks like the name means the door is "green" and not soundproof, it is probably more soundproof than a regular hollow core door but I would go for 1 3/4" of solid particleboard, the more mass between your listening room and the family the better. Find a real building supply or lumberyard (not Home Depot or Lowes) and ask if they can order a 2 1/4" thick solid core door and your room would be quiet as a cave.

Wayne

[ctviggen]

I was thinking about a heavy exterior door until i discovered these from Masonite (safe N sound). Anyone use these??

http://www.masonite.com/product_newProducts.php#item1

These are what I'm going to use, but I'm going to have them mounted in an outdoor frame with weatherstripping on the sides, top, and bottom.  If you have a specialty store near you, they can specify this.

[Nick77]

I was thinking about a heavy exterior door until i discovered these from Masonite (safe N sound). Anyone use these??

http://www.masonite.com/product_newProducts.php#item1

These are what I'm going to use, but I'm going to have them mounted in an outdoor frame with weatherstripping on the sides, top, and bottom.  If you have a specialty store near you, they can specify this.

Thanks, does that mean you will have a threshold as well?

[ctviggen]

Yes, I'll have a threshold.  I haven't actually purchased the doors yet, as I still have to finish installing lights, speaker wire, etc.  I also have to get the room re-drywalled.  I should order the doors within two months, hopefully.

[TomW16]

I have purchased a plane jane exterior door for my home theater and was planning on adding MDF (potentially routering a 6-panel pattern in the MDF).  This will add some additional weight and some architectural detail.  Has anyone else done this?

Thanks.
Tom

[MaxCast]

Hey, Bob.  If you don't mind me asking, how much was just the door?
And where did you get it?
Thanks

[Big Red Machine]

I have purchased a plane jane exterior door for my home theater and was planning on adding MDF (potentially routering a 6-panel pattern in the MDF).  This will add some additional weight and some architectural detail.  Has anyone else done this?

Thanks.
Tom

As an access door to my rack at the front of the HT I added 1" Knauf treatment behind a speaker cloth-covered frame held on with magnets.  So the door in that case looks just like the wall and is almost not noticeable.  It is an exterior door, prehung.

For your case, if it is a main entrance, I like your idea.  You could buy some nice moldings instead of routing and make it a raised effect.  Attached to the MDF and stained or painted, you'd have a pretty substantial door.

[ctviggen]

Hey, Bob.  If you don't mind me asking, how much was just the door?
And where did you get it?
Thanks

I don't believe they're that expensive, but I'm not sure.  My room is still back to the studs (no drywall).  My wife and I ordered a new sliding glass door for the same room, as the old one's header is sagging.  At that time, I discussed the options for the doors with the salesman, and he gave me a book to choose from.  However, I did not discuss prices. 

Unfortunately, I have another two months or so before I can finish running all my wires, get everything inspected, and have the room redrywalled.  Somewhere in there, I'll order the doors.  I do know that a regular door is only around $125 or so, but I'm sure the framing is going to add some cost.  If I can remember, I'll come back here to post.

[MaxCast]

Thank you.  The reason I asked is because I did not plan properly on my door.   I thought I could get what I wanted at Lowes/HD but they only had steel prehung exterior doors.  To get a wood exterior door with no window prehung had to be ordered and I needed it the next day.

[ctviggen]

Here's where I'm going to get mine:

http://www.oxfordpaintandhardware.com/

They're a store where you can order windows, doors, kitchen cabinets, etc.

Lowe's and HD are going to be tougher.  It would be unlikely that you'll be able to order anything but a standard option.  Putting an interior wood core door on basically an outdoor frame might not be possible there.

[bpape]

If you're handy and can build your own framing and trim and hang the door yourself, get a plain slab solid wood sliding closet door.  They're extra thick, very dense, and not terribly expensive.  You'll have to cut your own holes for the knob, mount the hinges yourself, etc. but they work great. 

Aftermarket perimeter seals and auto-drop bottom seals will finish off the installation with no threshold needed.

Many external doors are not solid but simply foam filled which doesn't give nearly the mass that a solid wood door does.  If you want to take it another step, you can then mount 3/4" MDF or plywood to the door with Green Glue to provide even more mass and isolation.

Bryan

[ctviggen]

If you're handy and can build your own framing and trim and hang the door yourself, get a plain slab solid wood sliding closet door.  They're extra thick, very dense, and not terribly expensive.  You'll have to cut your own holes for the knob, mount the hinges yourself, etc. but they work great. 

Aftermarket perimeter seals and auto-drop bottom seals will finish off the installation with no threshold needed.

Many external doors are not solid but simply foam filled which doesn't give nearly the mass that a solid wood door does.  If you want to take it another step, you can then mount 3/4" MDF or plywood to the door with Green Glue to provide even more mass and isolation.

Bryan

I thought about that, but many of the nicer sealing systems are very expensive.  For instance, this one is $300:

http://store.soundproofingcompany.com/product_p/door-jamb-stop.htm

And you still need this:

http://store.soundproofingcompany.com/product_p/automtic_door_bottom.htm

Which is $77.  That's almost $400 for seals.  And you still have to buy the door and the frame or make the frame.  I can get an entire door complete with exterior frame for less than the cost of the seals. 

But then my room has so many other areas for sound to escape, that I'm looking for something that's better than what I have now (hollow doors).  If this was my dream room, I'd definitely consider the seals.

By the way, if you get a solid core door (flat on each side), how do you attach MDF to it?  I have the Green Glue, but can't figure out how to mount MDF to the door (and make the mounting look good). 

[doorman]

Another option to consider is a "1 hour-Fire-Rated" door. These are usually flush, 1 3/4" doors that are mineral filled, hence the 1 hour fire rating. Pre-hung with weather-strip, sill &c. they're building code required around here (B.C.) for all apartment/hotel type applications.
They're as quiet as any I've encountered--
Good Luck
Don

[bpape]

To add the MDF, you use GG and a few well placed screws and then veneer the top.

If you just want a good increase, get some very basic exterior seals for the perimeter and a decent solid core door.  The bottom is still an issue.  I've seen guys do something as simple as a hinged flap that folds down when the door is closed.

Bryan

[ctviggen]

Thanks, Bryan. 

[WGH]

All the seals you need will cost less than $400. Check out AB Supply http://absupply.net/

An automatic door bottom are less than $60 http://absupply.net/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=507
The gasket seals are around $106 http://absupply.net/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=7491

You can build up any pattern you like on the door surface, even a frame and panel design using poplar or even MDF. A solid core particle core flush door is all you need, if you get primed hardboard I suggest using an orbital sander with #80 grit sandpaper to sand off the prime coat or the glue might not stick. Attach the design with yellow glue and a finish nail gun. Putty the holes with Famowood filler, prime and paint.

A thicker door may require wider hinges like a 5x5 hinge if the design is on the hinge side. Wider hinges allow the decorative pattern to be flush with the inside wall, if the design protrudes into the room then the door will only open 90 degrees because the applied molding will hit the casing. When the design is on the outside make allowances for the door stop.

You should know that standard locksets are designed for 1-3/4" thick doors. Sometimes you can order a thick door kit or a longer spindle to make everything work. I usually use a mortise box lockset for thick entry doors.

To illustrate what is possible, I had to make a pair of doors with a 1 hour fire rating. Since mesquite has not been fire rated I used a 1 hour fire rated solid core flush door in the middle with a decorative mesquite framework attached on both sides.



Wayne