[pjchappy]

I'm looking for recommendations to help eliminate pops, noises, etc. in my 50-watt all tube guitar amp.  I really can't move it to another outlet, etc.  It pops when the washing machine kicks on/cycles, the HVAC comes on, etc.  Would a power conditioner help this?  If so, any recommendations for a cheap one? ($200 and under)  Would something like this help?  Power Conditioner

I would also plug my pedal board into it, too. 

[pjchappy]

Your experience, of course, doesn't have to be with a guitar amp.  That's just what I would be using a power conditioner for, if it would solve the problems I am having.

[gjclaxton@gmail.com]

Might want to try an APC H 15 power conditioner.  It balances out power fluctuations.  New it is about 400 but i have seen them used for your price.

gary

http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=H15
http://www.hometheatersound.com/equipment/apc_h15.htm

[JoshK]

I don't know the answer.  My guess is it could work, but would depend on the type of filter used. 

The question to first understand is what the pop is caused from.  I think it is probably inductive kickback from the motor in the appliance.  In this case you get a voltage spike on the line very briefly, which can affect everything on the same line. 

I am thinking (aloud, I am no expert here) that a typical filter than shunts HF noise on the line away won't do much for a brief voltage spike which is more DC than AC.  But a power filter that has some sort of varistor for voltage spikes could possibly help.  I think most commercial power filters have this sort of thing. 

If you have a power strip you are currently using and you are comfortable modding it, you could add a varistor to it and see if that takes care of it.  Might save you some bucks.


Josh

[Browntrout]

It's not a power conditioner that you require to solve this problem.
It is one of these...
http://www.russandrews.com/product.asp?src=google&lookup=1&region=UK&currency=GBP&pf_id=5785&customer_id=PAA1110108409086HJQSEGSNUNQPGNVU

[JoshK]

I believe that is a varistor.  So I guess I might have it right.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor

The cap in that link Browntrout posted is for switch on/off contact pop.  That is sort of a different thing but related.  The cause of that problem is different though.

[JoshK]

Another very simple modification you can do is to add it into the amp itself.  This is probably the best solution.  Put the varistor from hot to neutral just in front of the transformer's primary AFTER the fuse and switch.   Just like in this schematic

http://www.pmillett.com/file_downloads/KT88_SCH.PDF

(page 2, the PSU schematic shows what I am referring to)

VR1 is the varistor.  You can also add a Thermistor to your amp if you know how much current it draws.  The above schematic shows RT1 as a thermistor.  This lessens the turn on surge of the amp and makes it less like to give a thump with turn on.  It works because the thermistor is very resistive when cold (at turn on) and limits the current drawn.  After a brief moment of being on the thermistor conducts a lot and heats up.  When warm it has very little resistance and essentially is not limiting the current anymore.

[pjchappy]

Thanks.

Are there power conditioners that include such things?  Those pops aren't my only problem.  I infrequently have other problems I know a power conditioner is supposed to help out with.

[JakeJ]

A couple of quick questions, are you plugged directly into the wall receptacle?  Or are you using a surge protected power strip?

I ask because my thoughts are as follows:

1) If you are already using a surge type power strip and the noises are getting through it may be that the varistor(s) in it are toasted from a previous surge incident.  If that's the case the unit should be replaced as it is no longer protecting.

2) If you are directly plugged into the wall then a surge protecting power strip with the VDR (voltage dependent resistor) and contact suppressor built in might be just the ticket.  Dunno who makes one though as my search turned up no references to a product that addresses this directly.

One possible solution might be something like this but I would call them (Monster Cable) and ask before buying.

Also you might ask these questions of the pro audio folks over here.

Best of luck, 
Jake

[Niteshade]

A spark created by a switch contact is a nasty square wave (aka: spark gap generator). It's best to kill at at the sources rather than at the amp.

[Quiet Earth]

It's best to kill at at the sources rather than at the amp.

+1 

[JakeJ]

So then plug the appliance into the surge device?    But if it's from the furnace and the motor is 240V that might be more difficult without a solution at the breaker box.

[Quiet Earth]

So then plug the appliance into the surge device?    But if it's from the furnace and the motor is 240V that might be more difficult without a solution at the breaker box.

No, don't do that. There's no point in getting hurt trying to eliminate some noise.

The power strip idea at the amp is good, I just think that it's helpful to know where the noise is coming from and then try to suppress it there if you can. A surge protector doesn't eliminate pops, it eliminates surges and spikes. The power strip that you pointed to seems to have that feature plus some noise filtering. But, even with noise filtering at the power amp you still might here some noises. For example, I have my system plugged into an isolation transformer with noise filtering and it helps a lot. I can still hear a little click when my daughter turns on the florescent light in her bathroom. I suppose I should try to install something equivalent to a Quiet Line on that circuit. It may not help though because it could be electromagnetic noise from the bulb's close proximity to my system. (Now, it's way over my head . . . . )

You could try quiet lines or similar around the house, placed near the offending appliances. That's kind of expensive but sometimes it is effective. Start with the power strip that you linked and go from there. I would stay away from the 240v  line unless you know exactly what you're doing.

Also, google and search are your friends on this complicated subject, but please don't try to do just any experiment that you read on the internet. AC power can kill. Safety first  .

[WntrMute2]

Maybe this would help.
http://www.fruitridgetools.com/storefrontprofiles/processfeed.aspx?sfid=136763&i=238053403&mpid=8171&dfid=1

[pjchappy]

Thanks, everyone. 

I've had the amp directly plugged into the wall and into a basic, cheap surge protector.  Get the pops regardless.

On a side-note, I'm currently picking up a sports talk radio station right now through the amp. . .   Happens every once in awhile.  I have decent cables, too (alll DiMarzio)  It's just w/ all the cables I need when using my pedal board, guess those and my guitar sometime act like a bit of an antenna.  (10' one from guitar to pedal board; 9 or 10 6" to 12" patch cables through the board and another 10' one to the amp).  That problem comes from the cables/board and it's at a very low volume.  If I turn on my noise suppressor (for those interested, an ISP Decimator), which is 2nd to last in my pedal board chain, I can get rid of it w/o killing my guitar dynamics.  I also don't have that problem when I plug my guitar directly to may amp. (well, just rarely a very tiny "rustling" noise, which is also the radio station) Anways, that's all for another site!   

[pjchappy]

Maybe this would help.
http://www.fruitridgetools.com/storefrontprofiles/processfeed.aspx?sfid=136763&i=238053403&mpid=8171&dfid=1

That seems to be for computer use, etc.  I'm not sure if it would be able to handle a 50-watt tube amp.  I don't know (trying to find out) how much current it draws, but here are the only power specs I do know about the amp right now: 

Power Req. 120VAC 50Hz / 240VAC 50Hz and it has a 3 amp slow blow fuse (I am clueless if that means the amp only draws 3 amps. . .I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to that kinda stuff)

Here are the specs of the conditioner in that link:

Input: 120V 13.0A
Output: 120V 12.0A

[srb]

Power Req. 120VAC 50Hz / 240VAC 50Hz and it has a 3 amp slow blow fuse (I am clueless if that means the amp only draws 3 amps. . .I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to that kinda stuff)

Yes, the amp should draw less than 3 amps under normal operating conditions, or 360W (Power = Voltage X Current) if you're operating at 120VAC .  Because it is a slow-blow type fuse, that would indicate that there would be conditions where a higher current value could be expected, most likely to deal with higher current inrush on power-up, or perhaps on some instantaneous peaks as well.
 
I wouldn't expect that higher current value to be more than 50% greater, so my semi-educated guess is that you would be fine with a device that could handle ~500W.
 
Steve

[pjchappy]

Thanks!

However. . .the conditioner specs I see don't list the max watts. (See above) 

Here are more detailed specs on another one I'm looking into (many irrelevant to the issue at hand).  Can you tell from this if it would be able to handle my amp?

Current Rating:  20 Amps
Current Rating of Each Outlet:  15 Amps
Number of AC Outlets:  10
Grounding:  3 pin grounded AC sockets - directly connected to AC input ground
Operating Voltage:  90 - 1340 VAC
AC Digital Volt Meter:  3 digit, 0 to 999, red LED
Spike Protection:  3 transient/surge absorbers
Spike Clamping Voltage:  185 VAC peak, 133 VAC RMS
Maximum Surge Current:  6.5 kA
Energy:  140.000 J
Sequential Switching of Each Outlet:  Microprocessed in 1, 2, 3 or 4 second steps
Sequential By-pass:  Yes
Light Supply:  2 tubes with 4 inch extensions
Type of Light:  Multi-LEDs
Life of LEDs:  + 500,000 hours
AC Filter Type:  EMI/RFI dual stage
Noise Reduction:  9 dB @ 10k Hz, 41 dB @ 100km, 102 dB @ 10MHz 
All High-Current Internal Wiring:  12-gauge
AC Input Cable:  12-gauge with strain relief
Construction:  All-steel chassis with heavy gauge copper wire
Color:  Black chassis
Power Consumption:  5 watts
Rack Space:  1RU
Dimensions:  44mm (1.75") high, 280mm (11") deep, 482mm (19") wide
Net Weight:  54kg (11 lbs)

[srb]

However. . .the conditioner specs I see don't list the max watts. (See above) 

Here are more detailed specs on another one I'm looking into (many irrelevant to the issue at hand).  Can you tell from this if it would be able to handle my amp?

Current Rating:  20 Amps

As I said in my previous post, you can compute the Power by multiplying the operating line Voltage times the Current rating.  So if your line voltage is 120VAC and this power conditioner is rated for 20A current, the power rating in watts would be 120 X 20, or 2,400W.
 
You can total the power consumption of all of your devices, and see what is required, then choose a power conditioning unit that is higher than the total, as you want a margin of overhead so that you aren't tripping the circuit breaker or blowing the fuse on the conditioner.
 
If you buy a unit from a store or dealer that will let you return it, you will quickly know whether it can help with the issues you have.  Unlike buying cables or speaker wire that requires very subjective listening tests to see if you have improvement or not, your power conditioner will either eliminate or reduce the issues you have...or not.
 
Steve

[pjchappy]

Thanks for the clarification.  I obviously didn't totally catch that one!