[golfugh]

Steve
I was wondering what would work best for speakers on a concrete slab with glue-down engineered hardwood.

I currently have KEF Reference 205/2's with the flat feet installed (2" diameter); I could also use the provided spikes, but don't want to mar the floors (both are adjustable for leveling purposes).  Obviously the floor isn't perfectly level which causes some level of speaker movement depending on positioning.  I also fiddle a lot and move the speakers quite often.

Which of your loud speaker feet would you recommend?

Thanks
Mark

[Herbie]

Hi, Mark. Although Herbie's Audio Lab has several products that would do very well for you, I suggest using the provided spikes with Herbie's Cone/Spike Decoupling Gliders. This will give you superb decoupling as well as mobility.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

[golfugh]

Steve
Thanks for the info.  Any particular reason why you'd go with the spikes over the flat feet?
Thanks
Mark

[Herbie]

I think the spikes w/decoupling gliders will give you the best combination of decoupling, leveling, and mobility. The flat feet probably don't decouple as well as the decoupling gliders. You could place Big Fat Dots or Decoupling Gliders under the flat feet, but that might be a little awkward.

If you like a lower profile better, using Herbie's Little Fat Gliders or Giant Fat Gliders instead of the flat feet or spikes would likely be an improvement, but you'd lose the leveling ability. Using sets of three would alleviate much of the leveling issue, though.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

[woodsyi]

Why do you want the decoupling gliders here?  Don't you want to bury the speaker cones into the concrete here?

[golfugh]

Steve
Here's a photo of the feet available, one installed the other loose.

Installed flat feet (4 per speaker)


Loose spike (4 per speaker)


Mark

[Herbie]

Hi, woodsyi. Decoupling speakers from the floor usually gives ideal results, not only for the loudspeaker, but for the audio system as a whole. Anchoring loudspeakers to concrete sometimes enables the floor to transfer cabinet vibrations to the rack and other components.

Besides that, Mark has hardwood laminated on top of the concrete. He doesn't want to mar the surface, and wants to move the speakers from time to time. In order to anchor to the concrete, he would have to mar the engineered hardwood on top quite drastically each time.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

[woodsyi]

I was just surprised that you want decoupling.  I realize that you don't want to pound the spikes into his wood floor but I thought you generally want to couple to hard concrete surface. 

[Herbie]

Primarily, the goal is to hold the loudspeaker baffle as motionless as possible. This can be accomplished by either coupling or decoupling. Spiking to solid concrete foundation usually does this very well, as does a firm (not squishy) decoupling approach.

I believe that with a wood or suspended floor, decoupling usually works best.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

[golfugh]

Steve
Thanks for the info.  So spikes with the gliders will be best?
Mark

[Herbie]

Hi, Mark. I can't say for certain that it would be the "best," but I would feel very comfortable with giving it a try.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

[ZLS]

    I have a similar situation and purchased the decoupling feet. 

    The improvement in sound was immediately audible.  The sound tightened up and became more coherent. 

    I will leave it to Steve to explain why; I just know that it made my system sound better. 

    BTW, Steve is one of the good guys in the business. 

[golfugh]

Steve
Just ordered your Herbie's Cone/Spike Decoupling Gliders.  Looking forward to giving them a go.
Thanks
Mark

[golfugh]

Well I installed the Cone/Spike Decoupling Gliders!!

Removed the flat feet and added the spikes w/the gliders, leveled the speakers and as ZLS mentioned the improvement in sound was immediately audible.  Everything tightened up nicely.

Very impressed Steve!

Thanks
Mark