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If you notice that people who post measurments usualy say "near field". You see now why the don't post the measurements at the listening position. This is a normal room effect of treble drop off. Notice how your ears tell you that the treble is natural. All flat speakers have that drop off.Bob
There will generally be a roll-off due to high frequency absorption by various boundaries, but it should not be as extreme as this, and the cavity at 2 khz is hard to explain. If the ST really sounded like that at your listening position, I think you would have returned them. Does your equipment allow you to do any other type of measurement, say a closer field (1-2 meters) with a fast FFT signal that doesn't include room reflections, cancellations?
Very interesting. Now I'm worried that you didn't connect the new tweeter with the right polarity. That would cause the suck-out in the 2 khz area. Are you sure you know which of the wires coming from the crossover is positive, and that you connected that to the positive tweeter terminal? Generally Jim uses a blue wire for positive, and clear for negative. The 0W2 voice coil is very robust and should not have been damaged by soldering unless you just let it cook and cook. And then there should have been a total failure.
Dennis how much variance in db is acceptable for on axis measurement at the primary listening position?
Quote from: DMurphy on 9 Jun 2009, 06:02 pmVery interesting. Now I'm worried that you didn't connect the new tweeter with the right polarity. That would cause the suck-out in the 2 khz area. Are you sure you know which of the wires coming from the crossover is positive, and that you connected that to the positive tweeter terminal? Generally Jim uses a blue wire for positive, and clear for negative. The 0W2 voice coil is very robust and should not have been damaged by soldering unless you just let it cook and cook. And then there should have been a total failure. I'm very positive that the tweeters were hooked up with correct polarity (but that was about 3 months ago). When I removed the bad tweeter I took a note of how the tweeters were hooked up & on the back of 0W2 there is + and - sign.When I soldered the new tweeters i made sure they were the correct polarity. But when i go home tonite I will re-check it again.Apart from physically checking the connection what's the best way to find out if my tweeters are either bad or hookup incorrectly.Has somebody else on the forum taken any REW measuremnts of the ST's?
I'll try to do that and post a few thoughts this evening.- Jim
Frankly, if I were Audiocrazy, I would feel a little ganged up on at this point. I'm sure he's following the measurement instructions as best he can, and he's getting results that look problematic. So I really want to be as constructive as possible. I would be very interested to see separate measurements of each ST in the same position. That should at least cast light on the tweeter polarity issue. That leaves the droop in the response at higher frequencies. Audiocrazy--where are you located? I would be happy to send you a small, light 2-way that you could measure to see whether you get results anything like mine. It's difficult to make any progress unless there is a known reference point
Any issue that does require correction is room-related. Changing speaker performance in order to deal with poor room acoustics is, plain and simple, a very bad idea.The right technology, applied correctly, can be extremely beneficial in achieving great system performance. But sometimes technology can be a curse. It seems like every major receiver manufacturer today is offering an auto-EQ function. This may be great marketing, but in many cases, it is a terrible use of technology. Others may disagree with this advice, but if you have a function such as this on your receiver, please turn it off. In most cases, you will be a lot happier.