[Ron]

 I have a question about the best type of wiring to use in a crossover network. For example,Danny offers JPS solid core copper wire as an upgrade option with his kits.I am sure the JPS wire is an excellent quality product, but it is fairly expensive. My question is does the JPS wire sound that much better than if you use a high quality strand OFC copper wire? If so,in what respect does the solid core JPS sound better than the strand OFC wire? If it does sound better,is it only a marginal improvement or does it mainly depend on the quality of the electronics you are using? Danny might want to address this question.

[corndog71]

If the extra cost of the jps wire is that much of a concern then you might as well skip it and use whatever you want.

I do believe cables can audibly affect the signal.  Especially if you've been using really cheap, low-grade copper with pvc insulation. It's the crappy wire that makes the most difference.  It obscures details, hides overtones and limits the soundstage typically to the boundaries of the speakers.

Better wire just does a better job of transferring the signal without adding anymore character or distortion.  The few extra bucks for the jps wire is a good investment and I say this without having heard it myself.  For one, it's a solid core 16awg wire.  I've done a little looking around and this is tough to find!  And compared to what I did find out there, Danny is including this wire at a great price!  (I wish I could get some extra for some homemade speaker cables but Danny's hands are tied.)

Personally, I try not to let money get in the way of my happiness.  Especially if it's under $100.  Consider it part of the investment.  And don't skimp on the No Rez either.  I can say with no reservation that No Rez works very well!

Conversely, if you want to cut corners and go cheap that's your choice.  It is after all your money. 

[Danny Richie]

Ron,

The wire can certainly make a difference. And it is not just the "wire" itself. It is also the often overlooked dielectric material that is coating it. The JPS Labs wire is 15 gauge, solid core, with a fused Aluminum inner core. It also uses a polyethylene jacket (not PVC).

I was impressed enough with it that I ordered 20,000 feet of 16 gauge, solid core, high purity OFC, with a polyethylene jacket as my new standard internal wire that goes out with our kits.

If it does sound better,is it only a marginal improvement or does it mainly depend on the quality of the electronics you are using?

Yes, obviously the wire will make less of a difference if the system has more obvious bottlenecks elsewhere.

[Ron]

 My question was not intended to offend anyone or to imply that I am a cheap skate. Since I haven't used the JPS wiring before,I was mainly interested in other peoples opinions regarding the audible differences in wiring. As a mater of fact, I plan to order the Neo-2X kit from Danny in a few weeks with the JPS,Sonicap,and No-Rez options so money really isn't the issue. Appreciate the comments provided by Danny and Corndog71.

[richidoo]

I have heard a lot of JPS products in the last couple years from the budget models to the top of the line. It is very special. It will make a very big difference, definitely worth the money. I have also used OFC and found it lacking compared to JPS.   JPS wire eliminates ringing in the signal and makes the background dead quiet and peaceful.  imo it is the best hookup wire available, we are lucky to have Danny able to sell it as part of his kits. Otherwise it is OEM only.

I have no interest in GR or JPS, just sharing my enthusiasm for JPS stuff.

[Christof]

I think the quality of your solder joint should be considered just as important as the quality of the short hook-up runs inside your box.  I personally use Odyssey and Symphonic Line pre/amp so I followed suit by using Groneberg copper for hook-up wire and speaker wire in my last speaker project, thus keeping not only the same material but the same wire geometry throughout.

[corndog71]

Sorry Ron.   It wasn't my intention to make you sound cheap.  Cables can be a touchy subject for some people.

One of these days I too will splurge on one of Danny's kits and I look forward to stuffing it with the goods!

I usually use Kimber Kable for my internal wiring but the JPS wire definitely sounds like it's worth it.

[EARGASM]

Removed by member.

[richidoo]

Eargasm, no hate mail - I agree with you about solderless connections. I 've used special pliers to cold weld the ends of small stainless tube to withstand 20kpsi. I always wondered if something like that could be done with audio connection. Once again I seek your wisdom of the audio netherworld. How do you do it?

WBT uses a solderless connection, but it is not gas tight. Can it be done with stranded conductors?
Thanks!!!
Rich

[Danny Richie]

I think a gas-tight crimp is a superior connection, but not everyone has the tooling to make it happen. But it IS better in every imaginable, and physical way.

It'd be great it the fitting was Copper. Typically though, they are not. While it makes a good connection it adds an insertion lost to the signal path.

[EARGASM]

Removed by member.

[richidoo]

http://www.read-wca.com/pwm.cfm

[EARGASM]

Removed by member.

[Danny Richie]

The solder should seal the Copper and hold the joint in place as the wire makes direct contact with the terminal.

[fcraven]

I believed that a great way to save money (on very expensive binding bolts, spades, etc.) and to simultaniously create a cleaner signal path with fewer solder/crimp joints, is to directly solder your speaker wire to you speaker's wire.

[Milehighguy]

Here's an idea I read about somewhere on the net from a well known audio mod guy.
Take the wires from the crossover and put them through the back of the speaker by drilling small holes. Seal the holes with silicone around the wires. strip the ends of the wires about 3/4 inch or so. Loop the ends and solder them in a small circle. Put a wood screw through the loop and screw it to the cabinet ( you may want to use a washer also). Next, put your speaker wire ( bare wire or spade) under the screw and on top of the crossover wire, and tighten down the screw. This gives a very direct connection, but also allows you to disconnect the speaker wire from the speaker.

[2bigears]

   hey MHG.that's a pretty good idea. no connectors needed....