I am offering brand new RM-10's at a $500+ discount for a limited time. That makes your total $1450, shipping included (that's the +).
This is my favorite amplifier and there is nothing else in the industry that equals it in power output for a pair of EL-84/6BQ5. It consumes less electricity (60 watts at idle and 65 at normal levels) than any other 70 watt amp. It costs less to re-tube than any other 70 watt amp. Being handwired it sounds better, is easier to substitute components (the latest super cap or resistor), gain and damping can be easily altered by a changing a few resistors, almost anyone can fix one and the failure rate is very, very low. The output tubes are fused giving them multiple chances to fart (ionization, spark, or blast a lint short). Amps without output fuses usually destroy one or both output tubes if there is an intermittent overload caused by a tube fart or user error. Bias is very easy to set and can go years without need for adjustment. I just check mine twice a year after the tubes are burned in.
The amp has been on the market for 10 years with excellent reviews and user satisfaction. I hear universally "Gee I didn't think that little amp could drive my speakers so well both in volume and woofer control". This is because the power is quite real and the damping is higher than most small amplifiers. This is not your typical EL-84 amplifier. The RM-10 has twice the RMS power, more than twice the peak power due to the higher voltages employed, runs cooler and the tubes last 3-5 times longer. This was achieved with a new application of the tube that was tested for 5 years in my system driving electrostats and dynamic speakers.
The driver tubes are good for more than 10,000 hours, about 10 years. Outputs last 5,000 hours at normal playing into matched loads below clipping, the way we should play our music. The amp also has an unique mono switching system that does not have the typical drawbacks of conventional mono configurations that involve adding resistors to the output terminals. I find it odd that Dynaco would put a mono switch on the ST-70 (the same could be accomplished with a Y connector) but provide no such switch for the output terminals. You have to get some power resistors and Y together the L & R outputs. Makes no sense at all.
Please feel free to ask any questions. I will look at this post daily M-F while it is active. If you see me skipping days, that's a hint that the offer is about to end.