[JoshK]

As always, I have more questions with regards to woodworking.  I am learning slowly.  I am needing to get up the learning curve on two topics and would love help from those in the know.

1)  I'd really love to do a black baffle on a veneered cabinet.  For the life of me I can't see how this is as simple as some make it look.  It seems the only practical way is to finish after cabinet assembly.  In this case how do you keep the area seperated?  Is taping off the veneer really enough to ensure the paint doesn't bleed into it?

Example



2)  I have aspiration to make the back two vertical corners 45º angles.  Like Duke's beautiful creations   (I want to do this on the back, not the front, but same concept).  What is the best/easiest way to make these types of joints?  22.5º locking miter? Flush joint? Built around a "frame"?

My track record with 45º flush joints isn't inspiring.  There always seems to be some distortion of he joint when completing the box, either due to not quite 45º, not perfectly square pieces or warping of the boards.  My last attempt was better than the first couple but this was a much smaller scale.

[TomW16]

Hi Josh,

One method that might work for a veneered cabinet with a black baffle is to finish each section separately and then assemble the finished pieces.  That is, dry fit the baffle so that it will be a perfect fit and then finish the cabinet and baffle and reassemble.

I haven't seen a 22.5 degree locking miter bit but a table saw could work for cutting pieces at an angle.  Another option for the table saw could be to build up the edges so that you can take a 45 degree miter cut along the edge without the pieces falling apart.

Good luck.
Tom

[ecramer]

22.5 locking miter bit

http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/55395.html

[MerlinWerks]

Hi Josh,

  ...Another option for the table saw could be to build up the edges so that you can take a 45 degree miter cut along the edge without the pieces falling apart.

Good luck.
Tom

I've used this method to build the Fonkens and the Fonkensteens with great success. Probably a lot easier than trying to make 22.5 degree joints. Just use butt joints and make the side walls as thick as you need to accommodate the amount of chamfer you want.

[JoshK]

I am thinking like 4"+ side, a bit too much to practically chamfer. 

[MerlinWerks]

I am thinking like 4"+ side, a bit too much to practically chamfer. 

Agreed 

[JoshK]

I ordered the 22.5 degree locking bits and will report back what I find with using them.

Still undecided on the dual finishing dilemna.  I probably will finish seperately and then put together.  Maybe a removeable baffle.   

[strider]

You could paint the baffle first and then veneer, couldn't you? Still mask the side panels so you don't get paint on them.

Or, how 'bout some type of laminate veneer for the baffle?

[JoshK]

Baffle will have 1.25" roundovers on all 4 sides which makes veneering impractical.  Plus WG is ugly, especially its mounting, and needs to be painted to cover up the transition to baffle (after bondo).

[DaveC113]

My track record with 45º flush joints isn't inspiring.  There always seems to be some distortion of he joint when completing the box, either due to not quite 45º, not perfectly square pieces or warping of the boards.  My last attempt was better than the first couple but this was a much smaller scale.

Pick up a square so you can accurately measure angles, and make some test cuts to be sure you get the angle right. Also, you need the wood to be as close as possible to square, even thickness, and non warped as possible. Buy well dried lumber and have a cabinet shop mill the boards to final dimensions for you before you build the cabinets. Making good joints is all about setting up the tools and milling the wood right before joining the wood.