Questions about the A/V-1RS

dvenardos · « **Reply #40 on:** 12 Mar 2009, 06:40 pm »

Quote from: EARGASM on 12 Mar 2009, 02:31 am

For trimming the veneer do two things and you'll be fine:
1st, tape the perimeter of the opening, to avoid tearout/chipping.

2nd, go grab a rotozip bit. They are 1/8" shank, so you either need a Dremel, a rotozip, or an adapter for your router chuck. I have the latter. These bits work so well its scary. They are a down-shear cut. If you find that the smooth guide portion of the tip of the bit is not allowing the cutter to reach far enough down, (like on the tweeter recess, for example) - grind some of the tip down on your bench grinder.

'Hope that helps you get closer to enjoying the music on your new GR's!

Thanks, I have been working with hand tools for applying the veneer and was hoping to finish off without buying power tools, but maybe that isn't possible.

chip · « **Reply #41 on:** 3 Apr 2009, 01:03 am »

Either of you have pics of your speakers?

Chad

dvenardos · « **Reply #42 on:** 3 Apr 2009, 04:02 am »

I am finishing up the veneering now and can post pictures next week.

Jon Liu · « **Reply #43 on:** 7 Apr 2009, 02:17 am »

Sorry, I have yet to actually take pictures. I am in the process of a move so I haven't really had a chance. Not to mention they haven't been put in their final place yet.

It's been a pretty hectic last month or so. Side note: On the bright side (VERY) I will finally be getting my LS-9's from AV123. I should be able to pick them up from my YRC terminal tomorrow. They are already at the terminal (or so the tracking says), but they closed at 5PM and I wouldn't have made it in time to get them. So with that said, I will hopefully take some pictures of those and the A/V-1RS as well and get them posted shortly. Exciting times, to say the least!

dvenardos · « **Reply #44 on:** 10 Apr 2009, 04:45 am »

veneer pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dvenardos/Av1rs?authkey=Gv1sRgCOXw3sL01YrGMg&feat=directlink

This is my first time ever veneering something. I used the iron on method:
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/ironon.html

chip · « **Reply #45 on:** 10 Apr 2009, 11:06 am »

Quote from: dvenardos on 10 Apr 2009, 04:45 am

veneer pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dvenardos/Av1rs?authkey=Gv1sRgCOXw3sL01YrGMg&feat=directlink

This is my first time ever veneering something. I used the iron on method:
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/ironon.html

They look great. Now I can't wait to see more pics and what your verdict is on how they sound once in place.

chip · « **Reply #46 on:** 10 Apr 2009, 11:06 am »

Jon - That is great news on your LS9s. Oh and great to actually put a name and face together with some of the pics you posted.

Jon Liu · « **Reply #47 on:** 10 Apr 2009, 03:23 pm »

Chip, yeah, I always like putting names to faces myself. I don't think the internet REALLY needs more pictures of me, but I figured there are people like me who like seeing who they talk to.

dvenardos · « **Reply #48 on:** 3 May 2009, 09:29 pm »

Can someone email me the assembly instructions for av-1rs, I can't seem to find mine?

Thanks,
Don

edit: Danny hooked me up.

dvenardos · « **Reply #49 on:** 6 Jul 2009, 12:56 am »

I have been working on a bunch of projects and finally got back to my AV-1RS.
Thought I would post some pics on my network assembly and post some first time builder comments.
I was almost done when I snapped the wire on the 20uf cap trying a little to hard to get the heat shrink tubing in place.

I copied Danny's board from this post and started with the positive circuit because it is simpler in this configuration than the negative circuit because in the negative circuit you have to create a jumper from the 20uf cap to the .33 m inductor. The hardest part for a new builder is getting the wires twisted properly so that you can solder them together it definitely takes some skill especially if you haven't done any soldering in awhile. The inductors also act as a big heat sink so while the copper wire heats up fast I couldn't get the inductors hot enough to melt the solder, not sure what is the best way to wrap the wires including the inductors to make sure that you get a good solder joint with the inductor wire not heating up that much. I could of used a little more heat shrink tubing, didn't have any left over to do the connections on the binding cups and woofers/tweeters so I will have to pick some up.

Hope this is helpful to others.

Starting the boards:

Positive circuit complete:

One board complete:
I wouldn't recommend that negative joint with the jumper wire, cup terminal wire, tweeter terminal wire, and inductor that was not easy to twist because there was no small wire.

I wired this one to avoid all the wires in the negative junction in the other board but then broke the wire at the base of the cap.

Both boards:

dvenardos · « **Reply #50 on:** 6 Jul 2009, 08:00 pm »

Ordered a new cap from Danny which will soon be on its way.
I absolutely hate the phone, but Danny is great to deal with.

PDR · « **Reply #51 on:** 6 Jul 2009, 11:37 pm »

When I put together my x-over for the Venues(?).....my first time ever....my wife was watching
and every once in a while she would look at me and say...."you better breathe now"
It was very nerve racking....also one of the most enjoyable parts.
I liked it so much I'm going to send away for one of those beginner A+B+C DIY tube amps
that are around for a few hundred bucks.....something to do over the winter....
I think the first time I power up that baby it will be in the back yard on an 50' cord...

Perry

dvenardos · « **Reply #52 on:** 14 Jul 2009, 04:14 am »

Hey what do you guys use to attach the networks to the enclosure?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #53 on:** 14 Jul 2009, 04:37 am »

I use small sheet rock screws.

dvenardos · « **Reply #54 on:** 14 Jul 2009, 07:22 pm »

Quote from: Danny on 14 Jul 2009, 04:37 am

I use small sheet rock screws.

You think 2" velcro would work okay? I need some flexibility to move the network around when soldering to the driver terminals.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #55 on:** 14 Jul 2009, 07:58 pm »

You'll have all the flexibility you need with the wire when soldering them to the drivers. You won't need to move the networks.

You'll also want them to be as solidly mounted as possible. The small screws will be good. If needed, you can always unscrew it and remove it.

dvenardos · « **Reply #56 on:** 14 Jul 2009, 08:09 pm »

Thanks.

dvenardos · « **Reply #57 on:** 16 Jul 2009, 03:19 am »

They work!!!

Have them hooked up right next to my av123 Strata Minis facing me (like normal speakers) and they sound quite good.

Will mount them tomorrow.

mcallister · « **Reply #58 on:** 16 Jul 2010, 09:14 pm »

bringing back an old thread. Curious what people think of the av-1rs for multi channel music? And those that had the cabinets built by elemental designs how much they charged (I'm highly un-handy)?

dvenardos · « **Reply #59 on:** 17 Jul 2010, 01:44 am »

It is simple to get a current quote from them and they are very helpful and low key. Just send off an email to sales with a link to the pdf and ask for a quote for flat pack or completed, bare, painted, veneered, etc. They have done several of them already.

Quote from: mcallister on 16 Jul 2010, 09:14 pm

bringing back an old thread. Curious what people think of the av-1rs for multi channel music? And those that had the cabinets built by elemental designs how much they charged (I'm highly un-handy)?