[TomS]

OK, I see that is where most people put their amps too.
Thanks

By the way, my layout requires the amps to be on separate sides as I have needed to move the CS2s out into the room further, and the speaker wires don't reach the center anymore, makes it a bit harder to use 2 different amps on a single speaker.


Z

I realize this might not be where you want to go but Walter offered to build right and left Wyred4Sound amps for this situation with each one having 250/125 or 500/125 modules in it.   With balanced connection you can go (in theory) a little farther from the DCX to the left and right amps too, and have very short speaker cables.

Tom

[zybar]

If you do need to buy new ic's or speaker cables, I can highly recommend bluejeanscable.com.

In my main system I am currently using their balanced ic's and loving them.

I use their 10 gauge Belden 5000 series Cable throughout my HT as well.

George

[zapper7]

TomS,

I think that may go above my $1500 amount, even though it sounds good.

I will look at the bluejeans cables, I have one of their digital for my theater too.

Thanks guys.

[BrassEar]

I second the Bluejeans rec. Outstanding quality at very reasonable prices.

They should have a tagline like "The no BS Cable Company"

[BrassEar]

I am all for swapping cables and amps to fine tune a system but I would stronly recommend CS2 users stuff some 30PPI open cell foam into their waveguides. The increase in clarity and smoothness will shock you.

[cloudbaseracer]

I am all for swapping cables and amps to fine tune a system but I would stronly recommend CS2 users stuff some 30PPI open cell foam into their waveguides. The increase in clarity and smoothness will shock you.

Do you have a picture of what you have done? 

Thanks,

James

[BrassEar]

Different waveguides (DDS) but exactly the same principle.

See:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=53821.40

and

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=59615.0

[GregC]

At RMAF 2007 Clayton used two stock Bel Canto S-300 amps and the CS2's sounded very good.  The Wyred4Sound amps sounded very good on the CS2 speakers at RMAF 2008.  I am using ICE amps on my CS2 speakers and I am very happy with the sound, but my amps cost a lot more than your budget (even used). I run longer XLR cable runs from the amps behind the speakers to the Behringer with short speaker cable runs to the speakers.  I also have my tweeter speaker cable connected directly to the compression driver.  My tweeter cable is 3 ft longer than my woofer cable to account for the difference of not running it through the speaker cable terminals (and the length of wire from the speaker cable terminals to the tweeter).

[zapper7]

So the foam would go on the baffle just as the waveguide ends, or is connected to the baffle.

Like a 12" round piece of foam, how wide would you suggest?

The Bel Cantos are definitely towards the top, belive me.

[BrassEar]

So the foam would go on the baffle just as the waveguide ends, or is connected to the baffle.

Like a 12" round piece of foam, how wide would you suggest?

Ideally the foam should resemble a cone of foam that fits inside the waveguide but stops at the end of the mouth. It would not reach or touch the baffle. You can use spray adhesive to glue the foam to the inside of the waveguide.

[hjsouth]

I may be the mid-fi guy in this group, but I have had great success with my IRD monoblocks which are 100 watt at 8 ohms and 200 watts at 4 ohms.  You can check out the amps at IRD Audio or Buffalo Electronics.  Been running them with my CS-2's for 6 months and they sound great, run cool and are built like a tank.  For the money in my book very hard to beat.

[zapper7]

BrassEar,
On the foam plug, I take the foam and layer it (like a laminate glu-lam beam) from 1/2 inch away from the throat of the WG to how far from the mouth of the WG?
I try to shape it wexactly like the WG, and use a small amount of spray adhesive to secure it to the WG when finished, right?
I assume you should not compress the foam by pressing it into the WG, right?
Sorry for all the questions, but I agree with you on the hardness or shoutiness of the speaker.
Thanks   Z

[BrassEar]

zapper7:

You have the basics right but if you are using the right foam, you really can't compress it into the WG.

The problem with the CS2 is the geometry of the WG, especially at the throat area (screw on driver instead of bolt on). I would be careful about using too much glue between layers as that might cause more harm than good. Just use spray adhesive 77 and glue some of the foam in the WG. That will be a big improvement and I can't believe every CS2 owner hasn't already done this.

All you are trying to do with the foam is absorb the internal reflections in the WG. It is fine if the foam goes right up to the throat area of the WG. Make sure you are using 30 PPI poly foam.

Good luck and report back.

[zapper7]

Foam is in and there is an immediate difference.
I am still tweaking with the DCX levels for best results.
Report back when complete.
Z

[dmiller]

Zapper, the other way to go is a good pro amp for the woofers. The woofers on CS2 were designed for pro amps. These amps are very good at handling difficult loads.

I don't hear much difference in good solid state amplifiers. I like 1 amp per driver on woofers. The concern with tubes on pro woofers is dampening and power.
I like tubes on easy to drive speakers. There's much better ways to improve a system than high dollar per watt SS amplifiers, IMO.

[consttraveler]

I'm interested in the foam plug!  Does anyone have a cross section drawing/sketch of the plug?

Are there suggested dimensions from the end of the waveguide to the start of the plug (inside and outside)?

[BrassEar]

Foam is in and there is an immediate difference.
I am still tweaking with the DCX levels for best results.
Report back when complete.
Z

Great. If you want to take the foam mod to the next level.....

Unscrew the compression driver and cut out the screen. The foam will essentially replace the function of the screen. Then use silicon RTV or modeling clay to apply to the transition area between the compression driver and the horn. You want a smooooth transition from the driver to the horn. Then glue the foam back into the horn. You can also damp the rear of the horn with FATMAT or bondo.

FYI, the foam might cut the high frequencies to a slight extent and may require DCX tuning but the tradeoff is superior sound from the horn.

The mind boggles at how good this speaker might sound with a 12-inch Geddes WG and a better compression driver.

[cloudbaseracer]

Foam is in and there is an immediate difference.
I am still tweaking with the DCX levels for best results.
Report back when complete.
Z

Great. If you want to take the foam mod to the next level.....

Unscrew the compression driver and cut out the screen. The foam will essentially replace the function of the screen. Then use silicon RTV or modeling clay to apply to the transition area between the compression driver and the horn. You want a smooooth transition from the driver to the horn. Then glue the foam back into the horn. You can also damp the rear of the horn with FATMAT or bondo.

FYI, the foam might cut the high frequencies to a slight extent and may require DCX tuning but the tradeoff is superior sound from the horn.

The mind boggles at how good this speaker might sound with a 12-inch Geddes WG and a better compression driver.

Do you have a few close up images of this technique?


James