[TheChairGuy]

A. Tweeks that are dubious, did not work, or degraded sound:

Aurex CD Mat - bleech!

AudioPrism CD Mat - Sometimes, caused mistracking.  Dubious.

Office Depot Anti-Static Spray - On cables, couldn't hear any change.

Bananas alternating with/from bare wire - I didn't hear it either way. Save your money if you can...but use the bananas if you have 'em lying around.

Ferrite Clamps - Helped some things a bit; hurt most things overall.

Cardas RCA Caps - Maybe?, maybe I hear something, but save your money for something more worthy.



B. Tweeks that seemed to work - moderately:

Cleaning CD's with Kodak Optical Lens Cleaning solution - worked better in the early days of CD...todays CDP's track better probably.

Green Pen/Blacklight - Crap, this works a lot of the time, but probably shouldn't.

(Caig)Contact Enhancer - Not as good as contact cleaner, but worthy of some efforts.

(All)Contact Cleaner - Works better than enhancer; system and grudge dependent I suppose.

Brass Toes - 'Molly Toes' from The Needle Doctor - $6 each.

AudioPrism IsoBearings - Better than toes. Too much at $69/set 3.

Heavy weight on top of speaker boxes - fixed the images/imaging a bit better.

Sand filled speaker stands - Always works; never found it extraordinary.

Sand filled equipment rack - Ditto sand filled stands.

Bedini HandHeld Clarifier - DeMag your CD's - You betcha'.  Radio Shack same cost and may be as effective.

BrightStar IsoNodes - Large and Small; okay. Better than toes.

LAT C Diamond - CD clarifier and anti-static treatment goop. Depending on day; could swing in to group A.

Parts Express Damping Sheets - Clay/Mortite better in almost every instance; bitumen better than non-bitumen pads (and cheaper)

C. Tweeks that have definitely worked:

Mortite/Dennis Rope Caulk & Plast-I-Clay - from modestly (inside most electronic gear) to outstanding (inside non-suspended TT's, and box speakers)

Hospital Grade Outlets - Heard no difference between $50 PS Audio and $10 Eagle.  Both good tho.

Herbie's CD GrungeBuster - Great way to spend $20 - it works, no mistracking.  Surprised indeed.

Herbie's Hal-O Tube Dampers - So good at damping I realized most of what I liked about tubes was low level microphony.  Hal-O not to blame; they do just as advertised.

Mortite 'hat' on tubes - Almost as effective as Hal-O, and nearly free.  Think 'small skullcap' and use on small signal tubes with good results.

LAT International Vibra-Killers - $39/set 4 now, not $29 any more, but very effective.

D. Tweeks that have always worked and will never not work:

Glass of sake, beer, or red wine.

A comfy chair.

A happy wife.

Money in the bank and a sound night's sleep.

StillPoints ERS looking interesting now......not tried yet.  Doubtful, no matter,  it'll be as good as sake or a happy wife tho.......

[mgalusha]

Nice list, I like the way you have them categorized. Thanks for posting this.

Mike G.

[vpolineni]

thechairguy,
   by ferrite clamps, do you mean the image clarifiers empirical audio sells?

http://www.empiricalaudio.com/frtweaks.html

[Tonto Yoder]

I believe  ferrite clamps are the generic equivalent of Audioquest's RF Stoppers:


You probably have integral ferrite clamps included on some of the cords on your computer.

[satfrat]

Hey Chair Guy, how's about adding your setup with Members Systems so we can see what your basing these observations on? You were right-on with the few of your tweaks that I've tried. But your DEAD wrong about ERS being doubtful. WAAAy off base there I'm afraid. Speakers and anything power or digital are your best bets for noticing clarity improvements. Regards, Robin

[eichlerera1]

Chair guy,
                 Great post! Was taken aback on your comment on the Halos. I use them on the signal tubes of my old VTL 225. Did you use them on your output tubes also? The Halo tweek, changing my EL34's from GE "Fat Boys" to JJ E34L's and the usage of ERS paper has literally pushed my tube sonics soundly into the realm of solid state. Like you, I'm still deciding whether I like  the loss of euphonics. Luckily, the tube midrange is still there but boy, the heightened presence factor of the musicians being in your listening room is wild! I urge you to try the ERS. You might want to try Auric Illuminator also.
                                                                                 Paul Galli

[TheChairGuy]

Hey guys, answers one by one:

vpolineni/Tonto Yoder - My clamps are Radio Shack - I would think the Audioquests are comparable.  There may be some small differences between them (ie., how far from the wire they clamp, amont of ferrite core, etc), but I'd think work (or don't work) along the same principles.  I don't know about the Empirical Audio - Audioengr seems like a serious dude (electrical engineer) and I would think they are probably different.

mgalusha - Mike, thanks, I've been thinking about it for a while.  I hate to waste money and hope I can save some fellow audiofools some cash to spend on better things.

satfrat/Robin - No, I'm really interested in the ERS Stillpoints - not one reviewer has said anything but glowing reviews.  Usually, there is at least one participant that says that the 'King has no clothes on'....so this one I'm really interested in.  My comment was only tongue-in-cheek reference to no tweek being as good as a happy wife of glass of sake.  My next tweeks are probably the Stillpoints ERS and some EAR or 3M constrained layer damping pads.  Has anyone ever tried those Marigo Tuning Dots? - seems like they work for many, but stupidly expensive.

My (modest) system is there, just not hyperlinked to my posts:

System Info for TheChairGuy - 2 Channel
 
Preamp - Hafler Series 915, Dynaco PAS-4  
Power Amp - 2 MultiAmps (running active)  
Main Speakers - Modded Optimus LX-8 (I hear you snickering, but they replaced Vandersteens, really!)  
Subwoofer - N.E.A.R. Boom-2 (awaiting purchase of bass amp)  
Digital Source - MSB Gold Link III with Power Base 1000 & Sony DVP-S7700 modded with MSB 192K output  
Analog Source - Thorens TD-316 with Shure V15 (latest)  
Other Sources - SAE 8000 FM Tuner    
Speaker Cables - LAT International SS-1000D  
Interconnect Cables - LAT International IC-200 Mark II  
Power Cables - LAT International AC-2 (5 in system)
Headphones & Amp - Grado SR-60  
Rack, Isolation and Power Conditioning - PS Audio Power Plant PP300 PS Audio Ultimate Outlet    
Room Size - 12 x 15 (feet)  
Room Description - Vaulted ceiling from 8' to 12'  
Music Preferences - The gamut  
System Comments Ever evolving - IRD Purist LLC pre-amp on the way as of 11/15/03 (as of 11/21, very intriguing)  


eichlereral1/Paul - I used the Hal-O's on signal tubes in my Dynaco PAS-4 has [4 phono (2 telefunkens 12AX7's and old Russian Sovvie 'Rocket' 6H23's from Upscale Audio and 2 line (new Sovtek 6922's)] small 9 pin signal tubes.  They were used solo and in conjunction with the mortite 'skull caps' and they did just as advertised - significantly tightened up bass lines and settled everything down.  However, in doing so it took away some magic.....turns out low level microphony is part of that magic.  Try as I might (and I have tried) I have never gotten tube gear to sound like a facsimile of the event, so for now I've shelved my tube gear and aspirations. Have tried Dynaco PAS-3, PAS-4, an Audio Research amp/preamp lent to me by a kind dealer long ago, Sophia Electric and heard many others.  They all have boundless presence (with and without Hal-O's or skull cap), warmth, incredible midrange, holographic sense...however, none of this has sounded like music I hear live - ever.

It's all about enjoyment, so I'm not criticising or denegrating anyones taste - I continue to like solid state better.  Maybe hybrids (Van Alstine, Anthem, modded Counterpoint?) for me would work.  Funny, I'm a kinda'  warm, easygoing, open guy in person, so you'd think my personality would lead me to tubes - but I like the 'clinical' sound that emanates from solid state.

The GrungeBuster is great - has worked in CDP, DVD, Panasonic portable CDP and cheapo boombox CD - all with terrific results.  Steve Herbelin is a low key, honest man and has worthy tweeks - remarkable.
 
Regards, John.

[TheChairGuy]

Oops, I meant Antique Sound Labs, not Sophia Electric.  I get tehm confused in my sake-pickled brain....

 

[satfrat]

Thanks for the additional info John, much appreciated. Looks like you've been doing more than just sitting around in a chair. Regards, Robin

[eichlerera1]

Chairperson,
                    Don't give up on tubes just yet!!! Get your self some JJ Electronics tube replacements for all your input and output tubes (they may not have all the types), put those halos back on and slide a sheet of good ole ERS between the transformers and tubes. Report back to us folks how shocked you were with the sound (hopefully in a positive way).
                    I suggest going thru Eurotubes. Bob Pletka is a dynamite guy and deserves your business. The JJ line of tubes are not expensive and I have been quite impressed by the ones I've used (E34L's and 12AT7's).
                                                                               Paul G

[TheChairGuy]

I doubt tubes have seen the last of me...tho for the immediate future, I think I'll stick with SS (Sterile State).

Never know what might send me back into the 'light'......

[satfrat]

I doubt tubes have seen the last of me...tho for the immediate future, I think I'll stick with SS (Sterile State).

Never know what might send me back into the 'light'......

                 Butler Audio tube hybrid amps. Best of both worlds. Regards, Robin

[GRD]

Great post.  Agree on the tube dampers.  I've tried them on a BAT CD player and the Cornet phono stage.  In both cases, they worked but I prefer the sound without dampers.  I think with the right set-up and synergy, the tube dampers would be a benefit.  Cheaper than tube rolling and the sound does change.  So it's a matter of personal preference in your system.

[TheChairGuy]

Been thinking about a few more:


A. The dubious, unworkable and deleterious:

Armor-all your polypropelene speaker cones - at least they look better afterwards.  I used preferable Nu-Vinyl.


B. Those that work modestly

Convoluted Foam Acoustic Panels - Only $3-$5 a piece at Parts Express; I've found rugs work better and certainly have more WAF.

Change Tonearms headshell lead wires - No discernable difference between Audioquest Litz and Thorens factory.  Being kind; should probably matter, but did not for me.


C. Those that definitely worked

Rugs/Carpet - Any type, berber best of the cheap ones.  Probably law of diminishing returns kick in sometime, but more generally better than fewer.

Dab of Mortite on Cartridge Body - Creates better interface between top of cartridge body and headshell; damps cartridge and headshell at very important point.  Don't forget to rebalance tonearm.  Not for all arms and cartridges, but most.

[andyr]

Nice list, John.

I will try the Mortite "jewish treatment" on the tubes of the hybrid preamp I'm in the process of building.

Here's a tweak you didn't mention .... get your tubes cryo-ed!!  There are place in the US where you can get this done (here's a URL to start you looking: www.emmlabs.com/reviews/freezing.htm) and I think I've found one in Oz.

Regards,

Andy

[TheChairGuy]

Thanks Andy - hope it's of some value to one or more.

I'm in total 'Sterile State' now and enjoying it very much...no telling when I may return to the 'light'(and maybe even cryo'ing a few valves if I do).  I'm liking what I hear better than I did with tubes - tho it takes a bit more stomach to handle it, SS sounds more like live to me.  C'est la vie.....

Do lay a little rope caulk cap on those tubes (input only recommended - output tubes possibly get too hot)...tubes love them little yarmulkes! However, don't circumsize them   . It was easy finding this stuff when I lived on the US East Coast, harder now in California (about every other hardware store has it in stock)...not sure what you'll find in Oz.  An alternative would be modelling clay (here known variously as Play-doh, Plast-i-Clay, Roma Plastina or Plasticene) and can be found in some kids/toy stores and art supply houses.

You may find the sound to be more, or possibly less, than your current liking...but they absolutely change things.  Everything gets tighter (bass, focus), but you lose some holographic 'air' in exchange. It's so cheap it's worth it ....and it's fully reversible.  The Herbie's Tube Dampers are better, but would be dearly more expensive to ship them to Oz.

Enjoy.

[WerTicus]

Definatly works:

Getting insulation in the ceiling.
for obvious reasons  (absorbs sound, keeps air cooler)

[hifitommy]

it works and its cheeeep (good).  search

http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/search.pl for toysRus and see what you get.  

it cries to made prettier and it would be easy enough to do so.

[hifitommy]

it OREGON!!!! DAMMIT!

[TheChairGuy]

Nuttin' there, hifitommy...when's ya' click on it.