[mingles]

Dear Vinyl Gurus,

I'm a newbee when it comes to setting up tonearms and would like your help. Does the spindle-to-pivot distance determine whether an arm fits a particular table? Or is the needle-to-pivot the determining factor? Or does the headshell adjustment allow you to make up for small mismatches?

The tonearm mounting hole on my table is exactly 222 mm from the center of the hole to the spindle. I was considering a Hadcock GH 228 Export, but I'm confused whether it will work with my table. The spindle to pivot distance for the Hadcock is 212.8 mm, which is 9 mm short, but the needle to pivot distance is specified as 228.6 mm which will make the needle overhang by 6.6 mm.

I would greatly appreciate help understanding this geometry stuff. More specifically, will this arm work with my table?

For what it's worth:

TT spindle to center of mounting hole: 222 mm
TT arm mounting diameter: 22 mm
My table specs: http://www.vinylengine.com/library/micro-seiki/dqx-500.shtml
Hadcock GH 228 spindle to pivot: 212.8 mm
Hadcock GH 228 pivot base diameter: ~15 mm
Hadcock GH 228 specs: http://www.vinylengine.com/library/hadcock/gh-228.shtml

[lcrim]

If I'm following you correctly, you want to change out the stock tonearm on your Micro Seiki DQX-500 for a Hadcock 228.  It might be possible to create a new armboard so that the Hadcock is properly aligned using the specs you set forth.  This would be above and beyond trying to make it work with the old spot from the stock arm.   I have seen new armboards on restored idler wheel TTs like the Thorens 124 or Gerrard 301s.  There are retailers that actually specialize in making custom armboards for these more popular older TT's to mount usually SME tonearms.
To undertake such a process on your own seems like a lot of trouble, especially for a vinyl newbee.
I suggest you learn how to set up  the stock table and arm first and once comfortable move ahead with your plan.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.

[mingles]

Thanks Larry. I appreciate your honest reply.

I'm not a total newbee to vinyl (I've been in it for several years), but changing tonearms is more difficult than I thought it would be. About a year ago I swapped the original arm (MA-707) for an RB300 with Tecnoweight and Cardas wire. The RB300 has a spindle-to-pivot distance of 222 mm, so it should be a perfect drop in replacement. I used Turntable Basics protractor to align the cartridge, so I'm confident it's dialed in. But the end result is that it doesn't create the kind of spaciousness I've heard on other tables. This is why I'm considering a better tonearm like the Hadcock. But your point is well taken. Maybe I should stick with the original set up.

[bacobits1]

The RB300 as you have it is pretty darn good. Mine is setup that way.
Maybe you just need a cartridge change to your taste.
You don't mention what cart you are using.
Save a few $$ that way.

Let me add, VTF and VTA are everything and will compete with CD on good vinyl when set properly.

Nice table BTW!

D

[mingles]

Bacobits1, thanks for your reply. I like my funky old table too. I've owned it since 1983. I'm not sure how it compares to other tables, but it's built like a tank. I'm using a nude Denon DL-103 which some say isn't very spacious sounding. I'm open to a change. If you have any suggestions I'd love to hear them. I'd like to keep the cost down to $500 or thereabouts.

I want to believe the RB300 is a good arm, but I see a lot of criticism about the bearings being a weak link. When I took off the original MA-707 arm and held it in my hand alongside the RB300, it was so obvious the 707 was manufactured with much higher tolerance. It feels like a piece of fine stainless steel jewelry or aircraft machinery. OTOH, the Rega feels like it was cast from scrap metal.

I recently discovered Jeff Spall who sells an RB250/300 DIY kit for about US$300. The kit replaces everything except the arm tube. The new bearings are much higher quality.

http://www.audiomods.co.uk/

I've been considering the kit, but I started wondering whether it would be better just to replace the whole arm. Any thoughts?

[bacobits1]

I did see that rebuild of the Regas.
Beautiful job and not so cheap.

As far as a cartridge recommendation maybe one of the Dynavectors, or Ortofons.

If you change arms you will more than likely have to change the arm mounting.
I have seen various Micro arm mountings on E Bay.

Den