[corndog71]

Sorry for my newbness in this forum.  I've only just recently started exploring it and I'm learning a ton!

I'm not necessarily an audio newb as I've been stuck in this hobby for over 14 years now.

I just figured I'd introduce myself a bit for my first top post.  Earlier this year my buddy, Cedric, introduced me to AV123 speakers.  I went to the chicago get-together and got to experience for the first time the x-statiks, LS6s and Minis and I was blown away! 

The open baffle x-statiks really caught my eye and for the money mls was asking I was immediately sold.

Well, in spirit anyway.  As we all know times are tough and I don't make a ton of money to begin with, so finding the extra cash to invest in my hobby is slow-going.  I love tweaking and DIY and figuring out how to get the best bang for my bucks.  Since reading this forum I've never been more excited about tweaking and upgrading my speakers. 

I have several pairs of speakers and the only thing I've done is replace the electrolytic caps that were in the tweeter circuit of my Definitive Technology Studio Monitor 350s.  I used Kimber Kaps as I've long been a fan of them as output caps for my Bottlehead tube preamp projects.  Prior to the change, the 350s with their metal tweeter were very sensitive to the amp I mated them with.  They sounded good through my Outlaw 1070 receiver and my Dynaco ST70 but did not go well with my Bryston integrated amp.  That never seemed right to me as the bryston is a fantastic amp.  I opened up the back of the 350 and there were a couple of electrolyics.  The one in the tweeter circuit seemed like a good one to replace so I got the Kimbers and stuck them in there and blammo!  MUCH smoother.  Now the 350s sing with the bryston and seem far more revealing of depth and width.  I can really crank them up with no sign of compression.

I've also been living with a b-stock pair of X-sls and LOVE they way they look and sound.


One of them came with a bad tweeter which I replaced.  I was very impressed with the crossovers for the sls.  The board alone is four times larger than all of the other crossover boards I'd seen in the past!  One item on the list of things to do is to throw some no rez in there.

Speaking of no rez, it looks like I'll be investing in a few sheets of it soon for another pair of speakers I recently picked up cheap.  I got these Klipsch Heresy IIs from their original owner.  The cabinets are a bit beat up but nothing a little tlc can't fix I hope. 


And as you can see the crossover needs some help desperately.



I've already been in contact wth Bob Crites about upgrading some of the parts there.  He's also a big fan of sonicaps.

There are three 1.5uF caps there that I plan on switching to sonicaps.  My question is what value would you recommend for a bypass?  I'm considering the gen II caps or possibly even platinums just for fun.  If I remember correctly bypasses were 1/100 the value of the cap being bypassed.  I can't remember for sure and I couldn't find it searching past posts.  I'm not even sure if they need bypasses due to the low values.

Anyway, I just wanted to say hi to the forum and jump in.  This looks like a cool place to learn some more.  I've never been good with woodworking but the electrical side of things doesn't scare me. 

Cheers,

[jeffreybehr]

I think SoniCaps are an excellent choice, and I use Platinums as bypasses, almost always 0.1s.  The Gen2s are still metallized 'propylenes, designed slightly differently and sounding slightly richer but not more resolving or detailed.  Maybe try a 1µF SC and a 0.47µF SC2 plus a 0.1µF SCP?

[Danny Richie]

Welcome to the forum.

The best bang for the buck is the .1uF Gen.2 Sonicaps. They were designed to be used in the by-pass application and are only 200 VDC. Cost is only $2.70 each. You have them in your X-SLS speakers.

It looks like those Klipsch Heresy's can be upgraded significantly. Have fun with them and if you need any thing in the way of parts let me know. I stock just about anything that you'd need.

[KenShelton]

A short while back I mailed one of my old crossovers to Danny.  He measured the values of the components, told me which were worth changing, and supplied the parts.  The old resistors were OK.  The old caps and coils had to go.

Rebuilding the crossovers with new air-core inductor coils and Sonicap capacitors (Erse cap on the woofer for budget) plus Gen-2 bypasses make these sound like new, expensive speaker.  I like the results a lot.

Don't feel constrained with the present location of the crossover components on the back of the terminal assembly.  If you'd rather, make a new assembly on a piece of pegboard or whatever, attached it to the back or bottom inside the speaker cabinet, and enjoy.

[corndog71]

Does anyone have any thoughts on how to unglue those inductors from the terminal cup?

[KenShelton]

Gentle heat.  Try a hair dryer.  It that isn't enough, ask around to borrow or rent an electric heat gun---like a hair dryer but hotter.  Be cautious with the heat gun.  It'll melt the whole shebang.

Or, replace the whole thing.  Terminal cups are cheap.  Danny sells some as well as Parts Express and elsewhere.

[Hank]

Mail one of the xovers to Danny and he'll recommend replacement parts, and, like Ken said, replace the terminal cup.  Measure your terminal cup cabinet hole diameter and Danny will tell you if his fits; if not, look at Parts Express or Madisound terminal cups.  I have several and if one fits, I'll send you two free.
Have fun!