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The M/T cabinet must be a very easy load to drive.
I've been bi-amping my MkI VR4jr's for about a year now and the results are truly fantastic. I can heartily recommend the NAD C272 for bass duties. ....For the top end I'm using an AES (Cary) AE-25 Super Amp Signature DJH. It's a triode wired push-pull amp rated at 35W with KT88 tubes, and a bit less (25W or so) with the EL34's that I'm currently using.
Hi slinco -- what are you using as a preamp here?
Is there a formula that I can calculate the resistor value to match one amp's sensitivity to another. Amp 1 has a rating of .72 VRMS for full output and Amp 2 is 1.5 VMRS for full output. I just need to change one resistor and I'd rather not put a potentiometer in due to mounting issues.So, how do I match two different amplifiers?Thanks,JakeI probably should post this in the Lab circle.
Albert, If you were bi-amping a speaker with tubes on the top that had a 300hz crossover and then added to the mix a ss powered sub woofer below 80hz I guess you would actually be tri-amping. My question for this set up is -- which type of amp would you recommend for the 80 to 300hz range, ss or tube? Paul
Hi Albert,I'm asking this question on behalf of "you know who" and his VR-11 SEs. He'll have a 7m (W) x 11m (L) x 4m (H) listening room being built from the ground up to be acoustically treated as a recording space as opposed to a control room. He also likes listening fairly loud at times. If he were to use amps with these input sensitivities for the bass modules: 1.076 Volts RMS ± 2% for 220 Watts into 8 Ohms.Which of the three below would work under the conditions noted above 0.85 Volts RMS ± 2% for 30 Watts into 8 Ohms. (Single Ended Triode) 1.2 Volts RMS ± 2% for 80 Watts into 8 (Push-Pull) 0.775 Volts RMS ± 2% for 18 Watts into 8 Ohms. (Single Ended Triode)and also would there be a need for extensive modification/manipulation of input sensitivities required or would the higher sensitivity to the preamps output actually help balance out the discrepancies in wattage with regards to the SET amps?Thanks in Advance!Michael*for others reading this my name is Michael John. I get my nickname from my second name Hi Michael,Depending on the actual gain of the amplifier's input and output stages, the most sensitive amplifier (as rated by "input sensitivity" in mV) may be the loudest amplifier in a "passive bi-amp" configuration. However, as we don't know the actual gain configuration of these amplifiers, the closest input sensitivity value would be the "best guess" at this time. It is actually best to use a solid state bass amp with a higher gain and input sensitivity, and use an outboard attenuator to reduce this amplifier's output, see below.In truth, the best choice for a tube midrange/tweeter amplifier would be the amp that actually has the best sound quality driving the midrange-tweeter enclosure of the speaker, int his case, our VR-11SE. The volume level differences can be handled by using an external attenuator to find the correct resistor value, then installing that value into the input jacks of the amplifier. However, for best results, the amplifier designer should be consulted, as adding a resistor inside the amplifier may void the warranty, while using the outboard attenuator will not. Channel Islands Audio, one of the Audio Circle Members, offers the VPC-3, which can be inserted in the signal path before the amplifier that is playing the loudest. Use Pink Noise and a RTA (or your ears) to match the levels of bass-to-midrange/treble. I have found that using the attenuator for the bass amplifier works the best, since the very slight sonic "veiling" is not readily apparent in the bass, but is more audible in the upper midrange/treble area. This is not due solely to the potentiometer in the attenuation box, but also the extra connections and necessary interconnects. In the bass range, the added "veil" is not audible.Best regards,AVS
I am just about to pull the trigger on buying a VR-4 SR MK II but have questions...1) if I biwire (or I think you can even biamp with the MAC 252 amp) running separate cables to the mid/high freq top unit and the bottom bass unit, where does the crossover or filtering occur? Long ago I owned Snell Type A speakers which also had separate mid/tweeter and bass cabinets. I biwired them but had to use an external crossover. What am I missing here?...2) I am looking at McIntosh electronics but am wondering if there is a better way to go...Classe? McCormack? I am not particularly fond of tube amps...sorry to those tubers here...2) I have listened to Wilson watt puppies/sophias, B&W 802D and Martin Logan summits most recently and would be interested in hearing, if anyone has heard any of those, how the VR-4 SR MK II sound compares. I have never heard the AVS speakers as we have no dealers here. If someone would care reply rather quickly it would be greatly appreciate as I my trigger finger is itching badly. Thanks in advance for your replies.
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