[vman71]

Hi,

I've never done this and was wonder if you all could help me out with:

- Explaining how to do this and,
- Recommendations/tips

Thanks in advance!

[Big Red Machine]

Straightforward to do.

You need to decide how expensive of a connector you want to purchase.  VH Audio sells several brands with gold, rhodium, silver plating.  Parts Express sells Wattgates at about $10ish each end.

If the shrinkwrap is completely over the ends then you need to carefully slit that back with a scalpel or Xacto knife to expose the mechanism to open up the connection.  Most often a screwdriver will do.

A multimeter is handy when reassembling to ensure the polarity is correct from end to end.

I use a 3:1 or even a 4:1 shrinkwrap on the ends after the connections are made and tightened.  Try CableOrganizer.com

[jmc207]

This How-To on making the Bob Crump (Asylum) power cord may help.

http://www.audiotweaks.com/diy/bobcrump_pc/page01.htm

[awe-d-o-file]

Wire gauge! I had to reterminate an 8 gauge power cord. The manufacturer takes out the screw clamps and solders to the blades. If you have large wire be wary, Wattgate and even Oyaide only take up to 9 or 10 gauge. Oyaide was easier than Wattgate-I've done both. I had to enlarge the holes on the Wattgate plastic to allow the 8 gauge wire to fit through properly. Also when reterminating consider cutting off the existing exposed wire, strip back a new length of exposed wire and make it shiny with fine gauge steel wool or sandpaper and then treat it with Pro-Gold or something. Check and double check with an ohm meter that you have no shorts and have proper polarity with hot, neutral and ground. Good luck!

                                                        ET

                                                                                                           

[Wayner]

So you've moddified a UL listed plug. Sounds like the UL listing just became void on the plug. Are you going to run a welder with 8 awg wire? The other thing that's interesting is that the outlet is only capable of delivering 15 amps, so why the big cord?

Just askin'

Wayner 

[cryoparts]

So you've moddified a UL listed plug. Sounds like the UL listing just became void on the plug. Are you going to run a welder with 8 awg wire? The other thing that's interesting is that the outlet is only capable of delivering 15 amps, so why the big cord?

Just askin'

Wayner 

I think he upgraded the  "normal" male end to an "audio grade" end on one of his aftermarket PC's.  The manufacturer of the cable chose to use 8AWG.  ET was just the *fortunate* guy who tore into it and had to figure out how to re-terminate the large gauge wire into the end.

FWIW--The easiest to work with and most user friendly ends to use for larger than 10AWG stranded wire are the Furutech's.  The opening on the back of the plugs is much larger than any of the other manufacturers.

Peace,

Lee   

[vman71]

Thanks everyone for the helpful advice!  I'm going to be on the lookout for some used connectors, both male and female.  One of my projects is replacing an existing female end with a large barrel (provided by Jack Bybee) and using a pair of large Bybee slipstream purifiers on the "hot" and "neutral" legs.  I also have a couple of other power cords that just have hospital grade connectors that I wanted to improve, by putting better male and female connectors on.

[awe-d-o-file]

So you've moddified a UL listed plug. Sounds like the UL listing just became void on the plug. Are you going to run a welder with 8 awg wire? The other thing that's interesting is that the outlet is only capable of delivering 15 amps, so why the big cord?

Just askin'

Wayner 

Yes I would have never thought 8 ga. would provide any advantage. Funny though, it does, in my system anyway. I tried several power cables free as a dealer and settled on these after listening tests. My CDP which only draws 50 watts of AC, less than half an amp even benefits from one. I also prefer unshielded cables it seems after many tests. I have a 20A receptacle and breaker but probably never even draw 10A peaks. Next time if I have to reterminate one I'll buy an Oyaide instead of a Wattgate. Money is to tight right now.

                                                        ET

[awe-d-o-file]

So you've moddified a UL listed plug. Sounds like the UL listing just became void on the plug. Are you going to run a welder with 8 awg wire? The other thing that's interesting is that the outlet is only capable of delivering 15 amps, so why the big cord?

Just askin'

Wayner 

I think he upgraded the  "normal" male end to an "audio grade" end on one of his aftermarket PC's.  The manufacturer of the cable chose to use 8AWG.  ET was just the *fortunate* guy who tore into it and had to figure out how to re-terminate the large gauge wire into the end.

FWIW--The easiest to work with and most user friendly ends to use for larger than 10AWG stranded wire are the Furutech's.  The opening on the back of the plugs is much larger than any of the other manufacturers.

Peace,

Lee   

It was a Marinco low end audio grade. The manufacturer removes the pressure fit screw fittings for added room and solders to the actual pins. The solder failed on one pin (hot) so I replaced it.  I had reterminated one of these cables before with an Oyaide just as an upgrade and that was easier. I bought the Wattgate for financial reasons. Thanks.

                                                              ET

[vman71]

So are the Oyaide the way to go, even if it's a little more expensive?

[awe-d-o-file]

So are the Oyaide the way to go, even if it's a little more expensive?

e


If you have the money I say yes. You can see and feel the difference. In my case I was pointing out they were better for large gauge wire as well.

                                                     ET

I have some Oyaide male plugs including their best, the M-1. I think that outlets and their WPC-Z are more important to the sound from my experience