[analog97]

Looks like I removed part of the solder plug on R27 on a FryBaby PCB when I desoldered an incorrect resistor.  On the bottom of the board, the circular metal solder plug looks destroyed, but on the top side all looks intact.  It looks as if I could solder in a new resistor from the top side, but I don't know if this is what should be done.  Any general help would be greatly appreciated.  Not sure how to post pictures here, but I could send one by email if anyone could take a look. 

Darn, I have learned that I am good at soldering on larger boards, e.g. Cornet2 and Clarinet, but these little boards are a lot harder.  Desoldering is a lot harder and riskier it seems on small boards as I really did not seem to grossly overheat it.  Oh well...

Thanks in advance.

[PatOMalley]

Where is the trace? That's where the solder needs to go. If the trace is on top then you can drop solder right there and be done.

If the trace is on the bottom you can to two things.

1. Peel the trace up, bend the lead of the component to touch trace, and solder them together. You can also cut a bit of lead and use that inplace of the trace for a length of run.
2. Run the lead of the component directly to the other component where the trace leads. A bit dangerous as if you don't get this right you can kill another component, short the connection. this should only be done if the road is clear and distinct.

I am a hacker of PCBs and now commonly have to surgically repair almost every third or fourth pad I touch. I am getting better, slowly.

One other trick is that if the pad is destroyed on a non-trace side you can get capillary action to work for you by laying the smallest bit of lead around the component lead as a makeshift pad. I now keep the clipped leads, the nice ones like from Riken resistors and Jupiter caps, in little bag.

Someone once gave me great advice. "Get into the process, not the goal." Maybe it is a little more advice than you were asking for but I try to get into a zen thing when starting out, sit back and take calm breaths along the way, and I make better progress that way.

[analog97]

Pat,

Thanks for the help.  I think I understand it now.  Looking at the destroyed pad area under a 6x lens, I can see the exposed end of the trace.  I can solder in the correct resistor and find a way to make contact with the trace, then check for continuity to the next pad the trace goes to.   I never destroyed a pad before on a Hagerman project (7-8 builds).  You gotta be kidding me about your pad/trace surgery rate!!     Thanks a lot.

[timind]

You could also run a piece of small gauge insulated wire from the resistor to the other end of the run. This will bypass the damaged run and is best used if the run is a direct connection with no branches.
You see this on boards all the time when mods or updates are done. I've done it numerous times when cap leaked and destroyed runs passing under it.