Options for raising spikes/speakers 1" in front only?

fluke242 · « **on:** 22 Aug 2008, 05:16 pm »

I will post a pic if helpful, but I chopped up 4qty sparkling wine corks to create a 1" rise on the front two spikes. Drinking the wine was effective, but the cork under the spikes is not too pretty. The tweeter is now at or just above my ear level. The spikes don't seem to have much height flexibility and I am just looking for an elegant solution - perhaps like pads to prevent damage to wood floors, but 1" rise and matching metal. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Big Red Machine · « **Reply #1 on:** 22 Aug 2008, 05:20 pm »

Here's one for you. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and in the hardware or door department, get 4 of the rubber inserted/metal backed doorknob stops you would put on the wall behind a swinging door. They come in gray or other colors and the spikes drop right down into the "cups" like a doorknob would when placed on the floor with the rubber part facing up. How do I know this? Been there, done that.

godawgs5 · « **Reply #2 on:** 22 Aug 2008, 05:23 pm »

Why don't you get some disks like these for just the fronts??? Not quite an inch but likely much prettier.

http://www.soundanchors.com/page20.html link didn't work earlier...but that brand has coasters that would work for you.

fluke242 · « **Reply #3 on:** 22 Aug 2008, 05:34 pm »

Thank you both! I have not found a 1" rise coaster yet, but like the idea of the conecoasters. I will check out doorstops too, but was hoping for metal on metal but if nice enough a door-stop could work. I will check out the hardware store this weekend.

I was also thinking of hitting up a local metal shop - have them create me 4qty aluminum risers with an indent to hold a spike and flat bottom for stability.

Thanks again for the suggestions.

Big Red Machine · « **Reply #4 on:** 22 Aug 2008, 06:03 pm »

Or remove the back foot and set the back edge on a felt pad.

godawgs5 · « **Reply #5 on:** 22 Aug 2008, 10:09 pm »

Quote from: Big Red Machine on 22 Aug 2008, 06:03 pm

Or remove the back foot and set the back edge on a felt pad.

I'm scratching my head now wondering why I paid so much for my college education and didn't suggest that earlier... smart man you are Big Red Machine...

Also to fluke - why are you using the spikes as is?? You don't have to use them...at least from what I gather.

funkmonkey · « **Reply #6 on:** 23 Aug 2008, 07:22 pm »

Got another idea for you Fluke. Remember those one hole stoppers from science class? They are about an inch high, easy to find online, and cheap. The rubber might give some nice isolating qualities as well. I have seem them in black, and occasionally white.
... just a thought.

If you want aluminum, you should be able to get a chunk of fall off (scrap) from a metal yard. Most steel yards also sell aluminum. Ask if you can come down and look through their scrap pile. They will usually charge you by weight. I have seen and used solid Al round bar ranging in diameter from 1/2" to 6". The metal yard will be able to cut 4, 1" disks off of something for you, and charge you a buck or two per cut. You can make your own divot with a drill bit. Use a little sandpaper to smooth out the cuts and soften the corners. Finish sand with steel wool for a nice brushed look and your stylin'.

A metal shop will most likely have a minimum charge to do exactly the same thing I just described. Or you might want them to use a lathe to make a fancy divot, or some detail stripes around the lift... either way it is easy work and shouldn't take a pro more than an hour for labor (for the fancy version).

Good luck,
Funk

fluke242 · « **Reply #7 on:** 24 Aug 2008, 02:11 am »

big red's suggestion worked perfectly. I thought about removing the back spikes but I imagined it might make them appear crippled. Leaning verse raised - I know, picky huh...

Anyhow, the door stops are awesome. Stable and pretty close in color match too. I will post pics soon. It only cost $20 for four.

Thank you again for all your suggestions.

fluke242 · « **Reply #8 on:** 25 Aug 2008, 10:07 pm »

Here is a shot with "door stops".

fluke242 · « **Reply #9 on:** 23 Mar 2010, 02:01 am »

Just a happy update. I got my music room back after a month with no Salks!

I solved my speaker rise issue with inexpensive glass shelving. Very happy to to have the HT2's back and at the perfect height now.

John

Mudslide · « **Reply #10 on:** 23 Mar 2010, 03:07 am »

Looks good, John!

I miss these speakers.

Srgtfury · « **Reply #11 on:** 24 Mar 2010, 05:12 pm »

Quote from: Mudslide on 23 Mar 2010, 03:07 am

Looks good, John!

I am sure you are in an earthquakeproof zone. Here in So. Cal., those mbabies would be dancin', let alone walkin'.

Thank you very much

Fury

ArthurDent · « **Reply #12 on:** 24 Mar 2010, 05:38 pm »

Very elegant solution fluke. Though as Srgtfury notes you might want to consider some 'quake protection. If memory serves you're around Eugene, and if Cal & Seattle go you'll probably be close to having waterfront property.

fluke242 · « **Reply #13 on:** 25 Mar 2010, 10:43 pm »

Quote from: ArthurDent on 24 Mar 2010, 05:38 pm

Very elegant solution fluke. Though as Srgtfury notes you might want to consider some 'quake protection. If memory serves you're around Eugene, and if Cal & Seattle go you'll probably be close to having waterfront property.

Thanks! The glass stands only cost me $20 bucks each. Not worried about natural disasters... but good point. Of course they are insured

I just picked up a Squeezebox Duet yesterday, LOVE IT. Can't wait to get a good DAC next and a Salk Subwoofer too. Thinking of waiting for Wyred 4 Sounds new DAC.

John

rlee8394 · « **Reply #14 on:** 26 Mar 2010, 03:25 am »

Fluke,

Where did you get the glass stands?

Thanks,
Ron

fluke242 · « **Reply #15 on:** 26 Mar 2010, 11:09 pm »

Quote from: rlee8394 on 26 Mar 2010, 03:25 am

Fluke,

Where did you get the glass stands?

Thanks,
Ron

Lowes. The glass pieces were on sale 1/2 off. I cleaned them out locally

made 6 pieces total, including couple stands and a media rack.
http://www.lowes.com

rahimlee54 · « **Reply #16 on:** 27 Mar 2010, 12:00 am »

Those speakers are still gorgeous glad you got the tweeter right.

srb · « **Reply #17 on:** 27 Mar 2010, 12:01 am »

I think your present solution of the mini-stands is preferrable over the previous solution of raising the front of the speaker.

Although some speakers, by design, have an angled front baffle in an attempt to physically time align the drivers (Thiel and Meadowlark come to mind), the crossovers in your vertical-baffled Salk speakers have already addressed the time alignment of drivers through electrical phase design.

Steve

DMurphy · « **Reply #18 on:** 27 Mar 2010, 12:14 am »

That's a good point. The crossover introduces some lag in the tweeter response relative to the woofer to adjust for the tweet's acoustic center being closer to the listener (because it's shallower--the tweeter, not the listener). To be fair, though, the examples you listed use 1st order acoustic slopes, where it's much more important that the acoustic centers of the various drivers be aligned. It's still an issue with 4th order slopes, but not as much.

srb · « **Reply #19 on:** 27 Mar 2010, 12:25 am »

Quote from: DMurphy on 27 Mar 2010, 12:14 am

That's a good point. The crossover introduces some lag in the tweeter response relative to the woofer to adjust for the tweet's acoustic center being closer to the listener (because it's shallower--the tweeter, not the listener). To be fair, though, the examples you listed use 1st order acoustic slopes, where it's much more important that the acoustic centers of the various drivers be aligned. It's still an issue with 4th order slopes, but not as much.

Yes Dennis, but we learn more by drawing you into discussions from time to time with responses based on partial understanding.

They also look better not angled.

Steve