The PITA Metal Work for AKSA Projects

ginger · « **on:** 3 Nov 2003, 04:20 am »

Any of you who have built or in the process of building a GK-1, AKSA 55 or 100 etc. will no doubt have experienced the Pain in the A... (PITA) metal work problems.

On this thread please add any good ideas for metal work, recommended tools etc.

I'll start it off with:

Holding the chassis firmly while drilling etc.
- Would you believe the BEST thing I've found to use is my woodworking Black and Decker Workmate. The Wood jaws don't mark the metal work and it holds just about anything.

Cutting Large and Non-standard shape holes.
- The Tool I would'nt be without is my ADEL Manual Nibbler Tool. I had to order mine from the US, Avery Tools is the go - on the web.

You also need:
A complete set of Drill Bits - Don't buy the crap ones - get a decent set, it will last you forever.
A "deburring" Tool - haven't checked but probably available from Avery as well.

Chassis -
For GK-1 and AKSA 55 I have used Hammond Steel Chassis. Hammond is Canadian and should be available anywhere - in Australia available form Arthur at EVATCO in Melbourne. These are inexpensive and of good quality BUT are not fancy.

Cheers,
Ginger

Malcolm Fear · « **Reply #1 on:** 3 Nov 2003, 06:24 am »

In Australia, I use the Altronics boxes.
They are around $100 each and fall together in 5 minutes.
I use 2RU for 55 watt AKSA and a 3RU for the GK-1.

I bought a $20 nibbler from Dick Smith.

A jigsaw with a metal cutting blade made life easy for the heatsink cutout.
To then hold the heatsink in place, I used silicon seal. Acts as a great glue.

EchiDna · « **Reply #2 on:** 3 Nov 2003, 08:17 am »

I'd add a decent set of files (flat, half-round, triagular) for cleaning up edges and holes AND access to a drill press, especially for drilling 30mm holes for the tubes (if you want them exposed) for the GK-1.

added extras that are nice:

dremel to replace the files

skill and patience like that of Propstuff!

AKSA · « **Reply #3 on:** 3 Nov 2003, 10:25 am »

Glen,

I'd go for 24mm holes for the tubes on the GK-1 - smaller is better......

As well as all the foregoing, a few more tricks I have found are:

1. Sharp center punch and scribe. Essential, along with a drill press so holes don't wander.
2. Very accurate steel ruler AND calipers.
3. When tapping Aluminium, use methylated spirit to lubricate the tap.

Cheers,

Hugh

PSP · « **Reply #4 on:** 5 Nov 2003, 06:15 pm »

I recommend that you buy a pin vise... visualize a handle about the size of the bottom half of a ballpoint pen. At the tip (where the ballpoint would be) there is a small chuck that takes very small drill bits (some so small that you have to look carefully to see the twists in the drill bits). My pin vise (which I bought for USD $12 at Radio Shack, sadly no longer in the catalog) came with a selection of small bits tucked into the handle).

To use this beauty, you chuck up a small bit, place the bit where you want to put a hole (precicely where you want it, no need for a center punch) and twist the drill manually. In 30 seconds for aluminum (maybe 45-60 for steel), you will have a nice starter hole (not all the way through the metal of course, no need for that)... then you go get your hand drill and drill either your "real" hole or--if that hole will be large--you can drill a 1-2mm pilot hole all the way through, then your "real" hole. This allows very precice location of holes (much better than a center punch... when I get a center punch into place sometimes it's hard to see the mark you made to locate the hole and this leads to uncertainty in the hole location... this is no problem with a pin vise since the tiny drill bit cannot obscure your view).

A pin vise is also the perfect tool to enlarge mounting holes in PCBs (or to get a little solder out of a hole). Recently, I've been putting a lot of Black Gates into my AKSA, and some BGs won't fit in the stock PCB mounting holes. When you enlarge the holes with a pin vise, you have absolute control of the process.

The only problem is that these can sometimes be hard to find. If you know a good machinist, he can probably help you locate one.

Peter

andyr · « **Reply #5 on:** 5 Nov 2003, 07:41 pm »

For Oz readers, you can buy 0.8mm drill bits and a suitable "pin vice" from Blackwoods. Very good for enlarging PCB holes for Riken Ohms and BGs, as I've just done.

Regards,

Andy

Greg Erskine · « **Reply #6 on:** 5 Nov 2003, 08:19 pm »

PSP, I really like the idea of using a pin vice instead of centre punch, should be a lot more accurate.

I just finished drilling 40 holes in a heatsink last night, wish I read your thread earlier.

In Australia, average quality pin vices and PCB drills can also be found at JayCar.

Note: Check all the collets before handing over your money.

Thanks
Greg

rosconey · « **Reply #7 on:** 5 Nov 2003, 11:19 pm »

man you guys down under have no clue

you dont have to buy all those different tools -just buy a torch-lol
why buy clamps when for a fosters or two a pal can just hold it-lol

EchiDna · « **Reply #8 on:** 5 Nov 2003, 11:26 pm »

Quote from: rosconey

man you guys down under have no clue
you dont have to buy all those different tools -just buy a torch-lol
why buy clamps when for a fosters or two a pal can just hold it-lol

what's fosters? I don't know a single Aussie who drinks that swill!!
someone must, but I've got no idea who...

AKSA · « **Reply #9 on:** 6 Nov 2003, 01:37 am »

Glen, really!!

You and I know that Fosters is a soapy cleaning product sold, for some obscure reason, in liquor outlets......

The other good cleaning product, also sold in liquor outlets, is black, in a funny shapped bottle. Very good for stripping tarnish off brass nails on 100W AKSAs.......

Hugh

stvnharr · « **Reply #10 on:** 6 Nov 2003, 04:58 am »

The Foster's ads here in the States are really good. True too.
Americans have never heard of VB!

JohnR · « **Reply #11 on:** 6 Nov 2003, 05:46 am »

"Fosters -- Australian for beer"

That's how the ad goes over there boys

Check this out: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=fosters