[vegasdave]

James,

Which method do you recommend? Soap, alcohol, etc?

Right now, I use a dry cloth.

[James Tanner]

James,

Which method do you recommend? Soap, alcohol, etc?

Right now, I use a dry cloth.

Hi Dave,

I'll ask Ken the shipper/packer in the factory what he uses to clean the amps up before he packs them. I have just been using Windex (window cleaner) all these years at home and at shows.

james

[denjo]

James Tanner quoted:

I'll ask Ken the shipper/packer in the factory what he uses to clean the amps up before he packs them. I have just been using Windex (window cleaner) all these years at home and at shows.

james




Windex should work fine for external parts .... and Pledge for a bit of shine. I have been using Windex on my equipment as well.

Best Regards
Dennis

[James Tanner]

Hi James,
 
We use Windex. I seems to be the best cleaning method for both black & silver products.
 
Ken
Bryston Shipping

[vegasdave]

Thanks James, I appreciate it.

[smerlas]

I have always applied a thin coat of high quality automotive wax to the case and faceplates of all new equipment.  It makes dusting easier and resists tarnishing and oxidation caused by the atmosphere and contact with the oils from your skin.  After the initial application I might "refresh" the wax every few years.  In between waxing I have been using the microfiber cloths for general dusting, which work great.   

Best wax for this I have found to be a product made in Utica, New York, called insulator wax.  Actually intended for use in electronic, automotive, marine use etc.  Pledge, Armor All, and most cleaner that also double as a polish tend to be streaky.

[vegasdave]

That's interesting...thanks.

[will1066]

I also find that Pledge works great.

[niels]

Not that I have any scratches, yet, but I am curious. Say you get a little blemish or scratch on the steel faceplate, how do you deal with that?

[Pearlcfam]

James,

What is Bryston's take on cleaning component connections? Is there a specific brand (Kontak, Caig) you like, and time frame for cleaning? Can it degrade the connections?

Many Thanks

[James Tanner]

James,

What is Bryston's take on cleaning component connections? Is there a specific brand (Kontak, Caig) you like, and time frame for cleaning? Can it degrade the connections?

Many Thanks

I do not have a lot of experience in types of cleaners but we always use heavily plated gold contacts as they will not corrode in your lifetime.

james

[Pearlcfam]

Thanks James

[Armaegis]

I have always applied a thin coat of high quality automotive wax to the case and faceplates of all new equipment.  It makes dusting easier and resists tarnishing and oxidation caused by the atmosphere and contact with the oils from your skin.  After the initial application I might "refresh" the wax every few years.  In between waxing I have been using the microfiber cloths for general dusting, which work great.   

Best wax for this I have found to be a product made in Utica, New York, called insulator wax.  Actually intended for use in electronic, automotive, marine use etc.  Pledge, Armor All, and most cleaner that also double as a polish tend to be streaky.

I've found that some waxes seem to attract dust more than others, at least on my car it does. I've been using Mother's this year and my car is dusty hours after application, and while it is easier to wipe it still clings. When I was using Meguiar's last year it seemed to stay dust free longer. Both were carnauba, not synthetic.

[Markd51]

That's interesting...thanks.

I know the product you speak of, been using it for close to 30 years on vehicles, my own, and others.

It's called Collinite #845 Insulator Wax.  And it is a fantastic product! But......

Problem with most wipe on, and wipe off products, such as this, which is a hybrid product (both natural and synthetic) is powdery residues being left in every nook and cranny that's almost impossible to get out.

Now, if you want to rip a component down to every last piece, then yes, one can perhaps apply such products and then fully remove them.

In the instance of my Bryston 7BSST2 Monoblocks, I surely don't wish to be yanking Faceplates, Rack Handles, LEDS, Cooling Fins to get the job done right.

One reason too, with my musical instruments, my bass guitars, my drumset, I'd use such if I was going to unbolt every last piece of hardware, lugs, cymbal brackets, etc, or on guitars, all tuning keys, bridges, etc.

There are protectant products on the market today, referred to as "WOWAs_  Meaning wipe on and walk away.
Some makers are Optima, Ultima, and some Palm Beach Motoring products. (Blackfire, Wolfgang)

They leave a lot less in the way of residues that might prove difficult to remove from tight areas.  They almost work like a detailer spray, but with much better protection.

My alternate method of reducing such a need for constant cleaning, is I had fitted vinyl covers made for everything in my system.  I've shown some pics in another thread here.  They were worth the cost IMO.

A little more time to uncover, and recover, but I know when those covers come off, my equipment, like my Bryston Mono Amps, look just like the day I unpacked them from their factory boxes. They stave off dusts, and as well any UV damage occurring.  I figure the less any cleaning needs doing, the better.

[Markd51]

I'd assume all of Bryston's Alu Parts are hard anodized, even the Silver Faceplates-Handles as well in a clear Anodizing process.

This then prevents oxidation occurring, and even hardens the surfaces, but as far as removing blemishes or scratches, marring etc in anodized pieces, you are essentially SOL.  You can rarely ever come along with a cleaning product, or polish-abrasive means without doing even more damage to the piece.

If it's current model equipment, I'd assume again that Bryston would cheerfully sell you a new part such as a faceplate,, or rack handles, etc if needed.

[Grit]

I've never used wax or any other cleaning products on my equipment,  just a damp microfiber cloth.

I do use several Blackfire products on my cars though and they are fantastic.

I know the product you speak of, been using it for close to 30 years on vehicles, my own, and others.

It's called Collinite #845 Insulator Wax.  And it is a fantastic product! But......

Problem with most wipe on, and wipe off products, such as this, which is a hybrid product (both natural and synthetic) is powdery residues being left in every nook and cranny that's almost impossible to get out.

Now, if you want to rip a component down to every last piece, then yes, one can perhaps apply such products and then fully remove them.

In the instance of my Bryston 7BSST2 Monoblocks, I surely don't wish to be yanking Faceplates, Rack Handles, LEDS, Cooling Fins to get the job done right.

One reason too, with my musical instruments, my bass guitars, my drumset, I'd use such if I was going to unbolt every last piece of hardware, lugs, cymbal brackets, etc, or on guitars, all tuning keys, bridges, etc.

There are protectant products on the market today, referred to as "WOWAs_  Meaning wipe on and walk away.
Some makers are Optima, Ultima, and some Palm Beach Motoring products. (Blackfire, Wolfgang)

They leave a lot less in the way of residues that might prove difficult to remove from tight areas.  They almost work like a detailer spray, but with much better protection.

My alternate method of reducing such a need for constant cleaning, is I had fitted vinyl covers made for everything in my system.  I've shown some pics in another thread here.  They were worth the cost IMO.

A little more time to uncover, and recover, but I know when those covers come off, my equipment, like my Bryston Mono Amps, look just like the day I unpacked them from their factory boxes. They stave off dusts, and as well any UV damage occurring.  I figure the less any cleaning needs doing, the better.