[Danny Richie]

I think you can get away with treating the area above your entertainment system.

You might also consider treating the area below it as well. You could do some type of grill cloth system to go around the bottom to hide everything you have going on back there. Then you can stuff that area full of fiberglass insolation, foam panels, or something to trap whatever resonance might be developing there.

I'd still try to figure out something thick to go in that left corner. Try and find something decorative that the wife will go for.

Here are a few links that might be helpful:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kidder/Audio/Room/PANEL/Panels.htm

http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/a.htm

http://www.angelfire.com/sports/RCcars/acoustic_panels.htm

http://home.comcast.net/~audio-worx/page2DIYpanels.html

http://www.gr-research.com/foam.shtm

http://www.foambymail.com/

http://www.sweetwater.com/shop/studio/acoustic-treatment/

http://stores.ebay.com/ACOUSTIMAC

http://stores.ebay.com/Sonic-Circus_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQpZ8QQtZkm

[AUDFILE74]

can i ask a dumb question? all of the pics i have seen on here of the ob7  speakers being built only show the ob7 in the clamps. are the bracing and walls screwed together or is the all just glue holding it all together?

[Danny Richie]

Typically only glue is used. I glue them and use a finishing nail gun. It makes assembly much faster.

[Bill Baker]

If your joints are clean and flush, glue joints will be the strongest part. Using a good wood glue such as Titebond and a sufficient amount of clamps, you will have a cabinet you can work with within an hour. I would recommend allowing the glue to set with the clamps for a least a couple hours though. Overnight if you have the patience.

 If your joints are not flush, countersinking a few screws to hold the outer shell together won't hurt anything. Not needed for the braces as they have plenty of surface area that will see glue. The less screws you have to use, the less filling you will have to do.

 Just don't think that by using screws you will save time by not having to wait as long for the glue to set. Filling in the screw holes will eat up more of your time. At least you can be doing something else while the glue is setting.

[soewhatman]

My boxes are made from MDF glued with titebond wood glue.  No screws or nails, just plenty of clamps.  In my experience a joint glued with titebond and clamped properly is unlikely to break.  The MDF surrounding the glue joint is more likely to break than the joint itself, even on a butt joint so long as it is clamped well for drying.  I have to agree with about not using screws, they end up creating more trouble than they are worth.  Unless you drill properly spaced countersink holes and drill just right for the screw, MDF tends to blow out or bulge around the screws.

Rick.