[U4EA]

When you have a captive power cord as in NO IEC how do you solder onto small lugs?

83802 is quite thick and braided.  I barely could get it on to my amps PCB lugs wher the original power cord was.  Originally the amp had about 12 guage wire inside that was slipped through a tiny hole.  How do you make the transistion from thick cable to small lugs.

I do not want to do an IEC with small wires from the inside of the case to the PCB.  I think a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link.  So why introduce small wire.

I had such killer results that I want to do more 83802 installs.  But my cd player has really small lugs.

[Ferdi]

HI U4EA, I had this problem once on my CDP and solved as follows:

- Open up the player.
- Remove the old cable but left last 5 cm as there was no room for bigger. (quite hard to do in my case)
- Use a drill to enlarge the hole to take a Neutrik Powercon socket.
- Soldered the last 5cm of wire to the socket from the inside.
- Mount the Powercon socket.
- Close up the player.

Powercon is a good alternative to IEC if you can pick both the socket and plug.

The plug looks like this (linked from the Gallery):


Edit: Not sure why this does not work. Go to the first picture in the Gallery/Ferdi's pictures.

[U4EA]

Thanx for response.  Why is Power con a good alternative to IEC?

[Ferdi]

Powercon is a locking, bajonet type connector that is designed for high currents. It has a much more positive connection than IEC. You can get an idea how this looks by looking at picture 1 in my gallery pictures.

Good luck

[U4EA]

10/4...saw the pic...just did not know what it was.

[subaruguru]

The individual 12AWG conductors of the 83802 should solder to the board's lugs fairly easily. I STRONGLY suggest that you do NOT introduce another connector into the chain unless necessary! Eliminating the IEC (or the alternative mentioned above) and hard-wiring is a great benefit.
A fine alternative to the 83802's stiff and bulky mass is the 83704 4 conductor quad-twisted clone of it. 4 16AWG combine to 13AWG. I make DIY PC Kits from both cables, specifying the latter when someone wants greater flexibility for a lightweight front end component. Sounds like you might benefit.
Additionally I process all the Belden 83000 Series stuff I but to stabilize the fluorocarbon dielectrics so that there's no "burn in" curve.
The 83704EST (as it's called) costs the same as 83802EST, at $2.50/ft + shipping. RSVP if you want some. Sure is MUCH easier to handle than 83802, and for a CDP the 13AWG is way more than enough copper.
Cheers. Ernie M

[JohnR]

Here is how to embed an image into a post:

Code: [Select]

[img]http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=78[/img]

eg:

[Carlman]

When you have a captive power cord as in NO IEC how do you solder onto small lugs?

83802 is quite thick and braided.  I barely could get it on to my amps PCB lugs wher the original power cord was.  Originally the amp had about 12 guage wire inside that was slipped through a tiny hole.  How do you make the transistion from thick cable to small lugs.

I do not want to do an IEC with small wires from the inside of the case to the PCB.  I think a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link.  So why introduce small wire.

I had such killer results that I want to do more 83802 installs.  But my cd player has really small lugs.

I've done this with my DAC and pre-amp with the 83802.  It's tough stuff... the strands kink up when you bend it as well... creating an even larger mass to stuff into a hole.  
Similarly, I had a problem when I change the IC on my turntable.  

In all cases, when I wanted to use a larger cable, basically, I had to drill a bigger hole.  I used a small cutting bit on a dremel to get it exactly big enough on the transformer input connectors.  I then soldered heavily.  For the turntable, I used an X-Acto blade and just spun it a little until the hole was big enough.  I have since bought a set of toy train drill bits... for the next time.

I found it necessary to bend the wires to form a good mechanical hold.  I used the 'loop' part of my wire strippers after threading the wire through.  None of this was easy.  It took a long time and a lot of cussing and head scratching.  It would be a little easier now, though.  

Good luck, have patience, drill slowly.

-Carl

[subaruguru]

I now stock 83704EST, which is a 16/4 (=13AWG) much smaller cousin of 83802, and therefore much easier to work within tighter geometries. It's only 22% smaller copper, yet 40% smaller cross-section area, and MUCH more flexible.  I am currently stocking it at the same price as the '02.
Cheers.