[timind]

I recently purchased a set of these http://www.audio-magus.com/product_p/mcls4.htm banana plugs and am curious if anyone has used them. They look similar to the blade section used in products such as Knukonceptz  BFAs but without the outer sleeve.
It's no problem crimping and soldering the wire in place but there is a small hook like piece on the outside of the shaft that I don't know what to do with. The hook looks as if it might provide tension on an outer shaft if used. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Gordy]

I bought some a while back and have yet to install them, in fact I only took a good look at them just now.  My wild guess would be that the small connector would be used by those fond of small gauge wire (18-22g), the flea power SET and high dB speaker crowd???

Gordy

[tgp06]

The small"J" is a stop.Look at the following; 6moons.com/audioreviews/whitelightning/moonshine.html
   Look about 4/4 to7/8 down the article at speaker cable assembly for that explanation.

[timind]

tgp06, thanks for the info. I'm surprised though that he didn't crimp the plug before soldering. Crimping provides a solid mechanical connection prior to soldering. Maybe these connectors don't crimp well as they don't really have much body to them.

[bacobits1]

I have them installed on the White Lightening.
I did not crimp because of the fear of distorting the long end of the connector and making it a lose fit.
I coated with solder first and inserted a tined end of the wire. Done.
Yes, that hook is a stop, just shrink tube over it and it's fine.
I like the way they have a positive grip in the post.
Using smaller gauge wire you should just make sure you have a good solder connection.

D

[tgp06]

Just pointing out the 6Moon's explaination...my personal expertise with these = zero!Appears they'd make good mechanical connection w/the binding posts,though.

[timind]

I have used BFA connectors from Audioquest, Analysis Plus, Knukonceptz and from an ebay seller in Hong Kong. The BFA style definitely makes solid contact. The AQ and AP were both crimp and solder style while the Knukonceptz and ebay have the barrel with screws to lock the wire in place. I prefer the crimp and solder for my peace of mind although I'm sure the screw makes good connection. The nice thing about the LS4 connectors is the wire is making direct contact with the blade. I will crimp the wire and see what it does to the connector. Thanks for all the words. AC is my favorite site for technical advice.

[brotha rubba]

results?   

[andyr]

I recently purchased a set of these http://www.audio-magus.com/product_p/mcls4.htm banana plugs and am curious if anyone has used them. They look similar to the blade section used in products such as Knukonceptz  BFAs but without the outer sleeve.
It's no problem crimping and soldering the wire in place but there is a small hook like piece on the outside of the shaft that I don't know what to do with. The hook looks as if it might provide tension on an outer shaft if used. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I use that "small hook" on the outside of the shaft to locate the speaker wire, while I solder it to the barrel.

These are the best banana plubs IMO - from a mechanical as well as metallurgical POV! 

Your local Multi-Contact dealer will be able to supply some insulating sleeves, if you really want to use them.  Otherwise, some heatshrink over the baarrel and over the speaker wire should do the job.

Regards,

Andy

[timind]

Results?
I can say the LS4 BFAs aren't made for crimping. I tried it and they did not do well. It seems best to use large gauge wire for max contact.
Of the BFA bananas I have used  I prefer the Audioquest BFAs with the barrel extending into the crimp collar, although they are expensive. A good crimp provides solid mechanical connection and the solder strengthens the contact.