My Capacitor comparisons: Mundorfs, VCap, Sonicap Platinum, Auricap, etc

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GETRDUN

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Incredible post Jon !!! I've actually read all 45 posts now... I recently bought a Transcendent Grounded Grid preamp with some upgrades and Mundorf M Cap Supreme 1uF 410VAC/600VDC coupling caps. I know you were using V-Cap Teflon caps but a little too costly at this point. I was considering Mundorf Silver/Gold/Oil or Jupiter Copper Foil caps. Have you tried these in your Transcendent preamp yet ? Thanks

I think you meant you read all 45 pages..lol..Really good info here!

GETRDUN

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I haven't heard any mention about the Cornell Dubilier 940C series 0.01uF/3000V for bypassing! Tony Gee says the Vishay MKP1837 used to be his favorite low cost bypass capacitor, but now it is the Cornell Dubilier 940C. Has anyone tried these? I also wonder about the other 950C series in speaker crossovers? Not that expensive, yet they come in higher values then the 940C!

rollo

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Take a look at what Keithh has done to his Wedgie speaker. Cutting out the board to allow the capacitors to rest inside the cut outs.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=151056.0





You could also just use silicone sealant to hold and somewhat isolate the capacitors from the boards.


  Just curious to know if you listened before installing wood on caps ?


charles

wushuliu

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I haven't heard any mention about the Cornell Dubilier 940C series 0.01uF/3000V for bypassing! Tony Gee says the Vishay MKP1837 used to be his favorite low cost bypass capacitor, but now it is the Cornell Dubilier 940C. Has anyone tried these? I also wonder about the other 950C series in speaker crossovers? Not that expensive, yet they come in higher values then the 940C!

Hm, I might order some. I like that Tony is trying out these industrial options. He's got Panasonic EP-ZE(?) or something like that up next. Curious how those will be rated since they come in inexpensive large values up to 60uf.

GETRDUN

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Hm, I might order some. I like that Tony is trying out these industrial options. He's got Panasonic EP-ZE(?) or something like that up next. Curious how those will be rated since they come in inexpensive large values up to 60uf.

I'd like to try them as well. I am also interested to see what he rates the Miflex caps! Those Panasonics will be of interest too!

Johnny2Bad

Would anyone know about the how good are the "european terminator blocks" used to bolt crossover parts together and wire internal speaker wires up in crossovers sound?(see my crossover pic above)As for the monsterous sized  Duesland  caps I see they are using out of speaker crossover platforms and bolting the parts and wires together with hardware store copper grounding lugs (shaped like a copper boot with a screw bolt inside). Are these better?

The "Euro" connectors are, by all accounts, fine.

I like WAGO connectors (the lever models) which make a gas-tight connection, means no corrosion at the connection point. A little pricey but manageable. Certain models will take a wide variety of wire sizes and both stranded and solid. Somewhat confusing catalog ("European style" information, lots of symbols instead of text) and limited distribution but still you can find them if you want.

Catalog (relevant to our use; they have more connection products):
http://www.wago.us/products/terminal-blocks-and-connectors/installation-connectors/compact-splicing-connectors-for-all-conductor-types-221-series/overview/

http://www.wago.us/products/pcb-terminal-blocks-and-connectors/overview/

Sources (USA + Canada):
http://www.wago.us/wago/contact-where-to-buy/where-to-buy-usa/

Europe (Main Site):
http://global.wago.com/en/index-en.jsp

Tyson

I have been trying out the Audyn True Copper caps to see how they stack up against the Jupiter Wax/Copper caps. 

Some notes on the Audyns - they have very thick leads, so you may not be able to fit them through the through-holes in an amp or preamp.  If you are good at soldering, you can just solder it directly to the trace, which is what I did.  Also it is double-wound to lower induction and also nicely deals with resonances.  It results in a really thick cap.  Check the dimensions and make sure it'll actually fit in the space you have. 

OK, the Audyn caps have finally burned in enough that I can give an idea of how they sound.  They have absolute, perfect clarity, without any edge or spotlighting.  Perfectly even tonal balance.  As close to "not there" sounding as I've ever experienced.  BUT, still missing the beauty/magic of the Jupiter copper caps. 

Tyson

OK, final update on the Audyns and Jupiters.  Put the Jupiters back in my amp today and aaaahhhhh, that's the good stuff.  I didn't think the Audyns had glare until I put in the Jupiters.  But it's true.  The Jupiters are just a better, more natural sounding cap. 

I do think the Audyns are a step up over the Clarity Cap MRs I also like.  The Audyn's are about halfway between the Clarity MRs and the Jupiter Copper Wax Paper caps. 

My advice remains the same - if you have the $$, just go for the Jupiters.  If you're gonna spend money, might as well have the best.

THROWBACK

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 . . .  and the best part of all is that you did all the work and I reaped the benefit. I changed out the caps in my GR Research LS-9 (open baffle version) crossovers to Jupiters and I have had the "aaahhh" experience ever since. Thanks!
Chuck

wushuliu

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FYI, Tony Gee has finally finished his latest round of Cap Tests. And now has a downloadable PDF!

EDIT: I'd stock up on the Panasonics before word starts to spread and the price goes up/stock depletion.

Nick V

I'm not all that well versed in upgraded caps. I have a pair of Polk Audio LSi9 in my bedroom system that have upgraded crossovers (from the previous owner - the parts still aren't that high-end, Mills resistors and Solen caps), and the LH Labs Vi DAC tube that I ordered (3 years ago!!) will have V-Cap TFTF output caps (if it ever actually ships out). I'm not sure what the Esoteric SA-50 that I'm using now has for output caps, but it sounds good.

I'm currently having a new pair of 3-way bookshelf speakers built by Selah Audio.

They use a ScanSpeak beryllium tweeter, SB Satori 5" midrange and 8" SB Acoustics woofer.

His standard crossover components are as quoted:

"The crossover will use polypropylene caps (Clarity PX in the tweeter section) and Mundorf 10w resistors" 

I'm thinking of having him upgrade to Clarity PX in the woofer/midrange section and Clarity CSA in the tweeter. Is this a reasonable place to start? The drivers are high quality, so I want the crossover components to be of similar quality.

Selah also mentioned there isn't much room for some of the huge caps in this design. Are there good upgrade options that are still relatively small in size?

Ric Schultz

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Tyson,
Did you listen to the Audyn true copper or the true copper MAX (latest and best version)?

Tyson

Tyson,
Did you listen to the Audyn true copper or the true copper MAX (latest and best version)?

They were good.  Not as good as the Jupiters IMO.  The Audyns were quite a bit more forward.  Which is great if you have a system that's a bit laid back, or if you really like detail pushed toward you.  But otherwise the Jupiters were better.

I will say this - all copper foil caps (including the Audyns) are very smooth.  Whether forward, middle, or laid back in overall sound, ALL of them had a smooth, coherent sound from top to bottom.  So it really comes down to preference I guess.  Do you prefer more punchy, exciting sound?  Get the Audyns.  More neutral?  Then get the Jupiters.  Laid back just a bit?  Then get the Duelands.  Although I'm speculating a bit with the Duelands as I've not heard them in my system - too much for my budget. 

Rusty Jefferson

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....I will say this - all copper foil caps (including the Audyns) are very smooth.  Whether forward, middle, or laid back in overall sound, ALL of them had a smooth, coherent sound from top to bottom. ....
Sorry to jump into a thread 900+ posts in. 

I'm assuming you're experimenting with coupling capacitors?  If so, I couldn't agree more with the above statement, almost.  I agree all the Copper caps I've recently experimented with have amazing smoothness, but when we added Duelund Silver bypass capacitors (expensive I know) to any of the Copper caps, THEN they had top to bottom performance.  Amazing improvement.

No flames in case these have been mentioned before, but in our double blind tests, we continually picked the Urushi capacitors as having the most neutral, refined, open and transparent sound of any we tried except for Duelunds with Duelund Silver bypass, at a fraction of the price.  Limited selection however, but amazing sound.


Ric Schultz

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Tyson,
You did not answer my question.  Audyn makes a true copper and a true copper MAX capacitor. 

See this page:  https://www.intertechnik.de/shop/cross-over-parts/capacitors/1768,en,9

Which did you listen to?  Thanks.

Tyson

Tyson,
You did not answer my question.  Audyn makes a true copper and a true copper MAX capacitor. 

See this page:  https://www.intertechnik.de/shop/cross-over-parts/capacitors/1768,en,9

Which did you listen to?  Thanks.

Oh, sorry about that.  Just the Copper, not the Max.  I thought about the Max (and might still get some), but I didn't like the tone of the plain Copper version and I'd be surprised if Max improved anything in that area.  The other thing is that the leads are way too thick and can't be put through a through-hole so you have to get creative to even get them installed anywhere inside an amp.  Plus the leads are also epoxied so if you cut the leads, you have to somehow strip the epoxy to bare some of the copper so it can make a decent connection.  Overall just too much of a PITA to keep messing with, IMO.

Ric Schultz

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Yes, those leads are rather unwieldly.  I have some MAX here and I am going to try to grind off the epoxy on a small part of one end and see if I can solder my own wire onto the connecting goo inside.  If it works (I do this now on Wima caps and have done this to some JB JFX caps) then I will remove all the leads and epoxy on both sides and solder my own wires on.  With a dremel and sanding disc does not take that much time to remove all the epoxy, etc......is rather messy....recommend a mask as the epoxy dust goes everywhere.  Hey, doesn't everyone mod their capacitors? 

jtwrace

Yes, those leads are rather unwieldly.  I have some MAX here and I am going to try to grind off the epoxy on a small part of one end and see if I can solder my own wire onto the connecting goo inside.  If it works (I do this now on Wima caps and have done this to some JB JFX caps) then I will remove all the leads and epoxy on both sides and solder my own wires on.  With a dremel and sanding disc does not take that much time to remove all the epoxy, etc......is rather messy....recommend a mask as the epoxy dust goes everywhere.  Hey, doesn't everyone mod their capacitors?
That sounds a bit hackish to me.

BobM

I have a Hagerman Trumpet phono stage which allows me to switch between 2 different 1.0 uF output capacitors. I put the copper Jupiters on one side and I have Amp Ohm aluminum and oils on the other. Damn if I can't tell the difference between the two. That tells you just how good those old Amp Ohms really were.

I've tried a lot of different caps before I got the Jupiters, but those Amp Ohms have stayed in there the whole time.

BTW, here's a link that might be interesting to all of you.

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html



Ric Schultz

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That sounds a bit hackish to me.

I love that you hate my tweakiness.  Please, more one liners!