Hi leitmo,
I general the project has been fun. Getting the parts was a bit of a challenge - five suppliers in the end. For me the electronic build was the most fun and the "easiest", although that will be better known when I actually finish and test it

Now the metal-work, that was a different story. I have, admittedly, very little patience. And as mentioned I tried to minimize cost by getting the Hammond chassis - this for me (but not others) was a mistake. I did not have the proper tools or imagination to make this chassis work, especially since I ordered the 2 inch tall version. I also learned that tools area bit important. So my rotary tool worked well, but of course when my patience and attention wandered ....
So I broke down and bought the Lansing chassis (in black - very nice indeed) and last night I finished most of the metal work. The key was buying some chassis punches - I found 16mm, 27.5 mm and 30-something mm punches and they worked very well - very nice, crisply finished holes. My only problem now is the power inlet IEC plate - a square cutout should be easier for me to manually complete and since the edge of the IEC plate overlaps the cutout a bit, it will hide some of my mistakes

But at least last night was a big progress point - it actually looks like a Cornet2 now, even if it is not yet powered up - it looks really good in the Lansing black case and now I am trying to figure out how the get the Hagerman logo and other silkscreen stuff on the case - not critical, but it would really make it complete. Any input on this aspect is greatly appreciated.
So, all in all, so far great fun, a bit frustrating, but a highly enjoyable and do-able project - I look forward to the listening .... Thanks again Jim for such a great project - and if I can get this working, anyone should be able to do it! Hopefully I will be able to post a picture of a happy glowing Cornet2 (in Lansing Black) very soon
So maybe I will ask some questions that I thought of during the projects:
1) why is the LED on the top and not on the front panel - I thought about moving it, but of course cut the top LED hole prior to completing this thought process
2) wouldn't a front panel switch be more functional in use? reaching around behind is OK but .... Again, I may retrofit a front panel version at a later time
3) I put the mono switch in but was nto sure how to use it if I had not - was there any wiring change required to account for NO mono switch? I may reuse the mono switch hole for the front-facing LED retrofit
4) What would happen if I integrated my Cinemag SUTs into the Cornet and them provided a SUT/SUT Bypass switch? Presumably the chassis provides adequate interference rejection but I was not sure (due to my lack of knowledge in the tube design world) if the design of the Cornet2 throws some extra engergy around that would adversely affect an in-built SUT.
Regards, taskerc