The other problem with the cartridge head is that some (like my spare) have plastic bosses for the cartridge mounting screws, unlike later ones that had brass bushings molded in. OK, now for any of you mechanical guys, what happens when you have a tapped, blind hole? That's right, usually the screw bottoms out before the cartridge gets tight, so these threads get stripped out. My spare will still grab, but I would drill the damn things out so the screw can't bottom out. If not, you must select the proper length screw or screw and washer combination to get the mounting screw to tighten up before it bottoms out. This was a really "f'd" up design on ARs part, along with their damn foam rubber woofer surrounds that have turned every vintage AR speaker into junk. I really liked the AR-5's but won't touch them as they certainly didn't stand the test of time.
Another point on the AR-XA turntables is that the motor capacitor is getting really old and should be replaced along with the noise suppressing on/off switch cap.
If any of you are thinking of buying one of these tables on Esnay, think twice. odds are the motor will be shot and I got one of the last Hurst replacement motors from the Needle Doctor ($150). Of course the shaft diameter of the Hurst motor was different than the stock motor, so I had my machine shop Buddy fix that.
These AR tables are a complete pain in the ass to get running. They don't have any VTA adjustment, nor anti-skating and no cueing lever (that was the AR-XB). I put a VPI scout motor in another one. Plenty of torque....in fact get out of the way when you start that baby up, but that works as well (of course the VPI runs @450 RPM so you have to run on the smaller pulley for the normal 45rpm speed to get 331/3. Don't worry, the math does work out.
Other than that, these tables will sound better than most when it's all set up properly.
W