[jdoyle]

Brian, John and anyone else who would like to chime in. 

I was set on the RM-30C's with a 215  sub.  But due to the physical dimensions and fitment issues (which involve some construction), I'm going to hold off on the Sub for awhile. Also, I might just keep my smaller Klipsh sub for HT use only.

So I'm now thinking of the M's...

So, if I go with the M's and then decide on adding the 215 (or maybe a Larger) Sub down the road, will I have regretted getting the M's?  Is there a sonic reason not to pair the M's with a sub?

Thanks in advance, 

JD

[RGordonpf]

Hi JD,

I had a Large Sub and RM30Ms for 4 years.  I just finished converting the RM30Ms to RM30Cs.  I did the conversion for two reasons.  The first was that I drive the RM30s with a pair of deHavilland 845 SET (Single Ended Triode) amps which do not have a lot of slam in the bass.  The RM30Ms went too low and I could not get much output from the Larger without getting a big hump in the bass frequency response.  By removing the side firing 10" drivers, I could raise the crossover frequency to the Larger by 20Hz.  This let the Larger, and its solid state amps - dual voice coil), take over a larger role without adding a bass hump.  The second reason for converting is that in my listening room it is easier to get a fairly smooth bass frequency response with only one bass source as opposed to three.

If you do a search of the threads here you will read that Brian recommends RM30Cs + sub over the RM30Ms + sub.  Based on my experience I concur.  Of course, without a sub, the RM30Ms are the way to go.

If space is a limitation you might try the RM30Ms without a sub.  They do go quite low and with a good solid state amp have amazing bass.  I tried a pair of Herron solid state monoblock amps on my RM30Ms right before I decided to convert them.  The Herrons and the RM30Ms without the Larger were quite a combination.  If you get the RM30Ms and later decde to add a sub, the coversion process is fairly simple:  Remove the 10" drivers, change the 6 1/2" driver wiring so that the drivers are in series, not parallel (no soldering required as slip-on clips are used), and make two pluga to fill the 10" driver holes.   

You will really enjoy your RM30 speakers regardless of which model you buy.

[Zheeeem]

Sorry I missed this.

I'm very happy with my RM30Ms.

I figure if I get the urge for a pair of powered subs, which would be nice in a larger room, I can experiment with/without the 10 inch woofers and see which works best.  the price difference between the C and the M isn't all that much.  So if it's going to be a couple years, I'd recommend the M.

[John Casler]

Brian, John and anyone else who would like to chime in. 

I was set on the RM-30C's with a 215  sub.  But due to the physical dimensions and fitment issues (which involve some construction), I'm going to hold off on the Sub for awhile. Also, I might just keep my smaller Klipsh sub for HT use only.

So I'm now thinking of the M's...

So, if I go with the M's and then decide on adding the 215 (or maybe a Larger) Sub down the road, will I have regretted getting the M's?  Is there a sonic reason not to pair the M's with a sub?

Thanks in advance, 

JD

Hi John,

Both of the previous posters have nailed it pretty well.

The RM30M is a formidable speaker in its price range.

I think the reason the RM30C has been so popular is because many want "DEEP" bass into the 20's and intend to get/or already have a sub that can take over below 35Hz.

I had a pair of RM30's which I ran with 4 LARGER subs, but the largers were "rolled in" at 30Hz to a seamless integration.

The actual bass response you get in "your" room will be more dependant on the room dimensions (as bass ALWAYS IS).

I don't know which KLIPSCH sub you have, but you might find it offers enough coverage below 30Hz to be acceptable for the time being (be carefull NOT to overlap frequencies )

[John Casler]

I might also add, that you CAN place a sub running those frequncies (below 30) anyplace in the room, it just has to be phased a bit.

I have posted about my experiment where I now run one of my subs about 25ft away from the mains (down a hallway) and the Low End foundation is excellent.

[jdoyle]

Thanks all for your replies...  I know in my heart, I want the 215 that the good Mr. Casler has quoted me in packages numerous times.  I did a bit of searching after reading RGordonpf's very helpful post and while I'm sure I'd be happy with the M's, I want to do this right and add the sub. 

  But the snowball effect is on and now the family room will be getting a whole make over to keep the Mrs. happy.  I need to do some construction to accommodate the sub, and somehow this involves new furniture... oh well  life's about compromise, right?  It's gonna happen eventually, maybe just as some new  releases of components that I'm interested are ready.  aa

Thanks again all,

JD

[john1970]

JD,

I would go with the RM30M's.  As John C points out you can always add a sub running below the 30 Hz cutoff.  Make sure you purchase the MLS cabinets.  I originally purchased a set of RM40s with standard oak cabinets.  The standard finish was of poor quality and I ended up upgrading to maple MLS cabinets.  If you do a search under the VMPS forum you can find my original review of the RM40s.

Good luck,

John

[tbrooke]

Is there a crossover on the side firing woofers?

I assume not because this would make it a 4 way but I thought since I do some equalization on my subs to correct for room nodes it might be nice to be able to do it on the side firing woofers since they are operating in the same range.

I have a huge room and run the RM30Ms with dual subs since I figure I need all the bass I can get. I've got the subs equalized to correct for room nodes and it seems it might be nice to cut in the 10" woofers at about 40 hz and equalize them with the subs or even add another croosover and have dual band bass. (or I could get 4 subs like John)

Tom

[John Casler]

Is there a crossover on the side firing woofers?

I assume not because this would make it a 4 way but I thought since I do some equalization on my subs to correct for room nodes it might be nice to be able to do it on the side firing woofers since they are operating in the same range.

I have a huge room and run the RM30Ms with dual subs since I figure I need all the bass I can get. I've got the subs equalized to correct for room nodes and it seems it might be nice to cut in the 10" woofers at about 40 hz and equalize them with the subs or even add another croosover and have dual band bass. (or I could get 4 subs like John)

Tom

For HT, using your PrePro's x-over, you need not worry since it should send the appropriate "bass" frequencies to the right speaker, "IF" you have the speakers set properly, and don't "double up" on bass frequencies as some PrePros offer as an option.

Now you might find the LARGER overlap of frequencies for HT less distracting since it is not music accuracy you are looking to create, but explosive room filling BASS ENERGY for "effect" (which is why it is called LFE or Low Frequency Effects channel)

These requirements for "accuracy" are far less than in music.

For 2 channel, there should be "minimal overlap" of bass frequencies handled by woofers NOT in the same plane and equidistant from the listener.  Or else you need a phase/delay capability to set arrival times.