Attn Danny: Just some questions about my up and coming line array project...

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Chops

The title says it all, I am in the middle of planning out my very first LA project. I've always been interested in them but never had the $$$ to actually take on the project. So here's the scoop so far.

My room is 13'W x 17'L x 8'H with a hallway in the right rear corner, 3.5'W x 23'L x 8'H. The hallway seems to act as a helmholtz resonator as my room has strong bass reinforcement between 20-40Hz. I am using (and will be using) a Behringer DCX2496 digital xover to control the speakers.

Anyway, I am thinking of purchasing 24 of the M-130 drivers (12 per ch) and 16 Dayton PT2C-8 planars (8 per ch). I'm stuck with having to go with the Dayton planars because they are the only ones in my price range for the quantity that I need. The other thing I'm stuck with is the minimum 2kHz xover freq that I can use with them. For this reason, I am forced to use woofers smaller than 6", which is why I am going with the M-130's. I was originally planning on getting the Dayton Classic 6.5" drivers, but have learned that they will not work in a LA up to 2kHz due to their C-T-C spacing being too large.

My questions are...

1) What is the best enclosure size and type for these drivers to produce the widest range of sound and bass extention?
2) If ported, what tuning freq is going to give the best results?
3) If ported, is it really necessary to have one port per driver or can I get away with only (3) or (4) 3"-4" ports total per ch?
4) What is the highest xover freq one can get away with with the M-130's in a LA, taking into consideration the C-T-C spacing of these drivers?
5) How do you think this kind of LA will perform in the real world?
6) What are these little M-130 drivers capable of when in large LA's like what I'm planning?


I guess I could have summed up all of these questions into one and ask you how you would design and built a pair of LA's using these same drivers.

Any advice, pointers, tips and tricks you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance!

-Charles
« Last Edit: 2 Mar 2008, 10:04 pm by Chops »

arthurs

Charles, just as an FYI Danny is on vacation and should be back in a few days....

Chops

Hello Arthurs, thanks for the "FYI". I'll keep a close eye on this thread for any action.  :wink:

RAW

Sounds interesting.
Personally I would go to the M-130X not the standard M-130.
This XBL driver is a much improved driver for a small cost upgrade.

Chops

Sounds interesting.
Personally I would go to the M-130X not the standard M-130.
This XBL driver is a much improved driver for a small cost upgrade.


Hi RAW! Say, didn't I read somewhere that you built a LA several years ago using these same M-130 drivers? If so, how did those turn out?

Unfortunately, that extra $360 for the XBL drivers is a bit much for me at the moment. When the time comes to purchase everything, if I have the extra cash I'll go for the XBL's. But for right now, they are out of my range. However, I probably won't be buying anything for a couple months anyway, so you never know.  aa

RAW

Sounds interesting.
Personally I would go to the M-130X not the standard M-130.
This XBL driver is a much improved driver for a small cost upgrade.


Hi RAW! Say, didn't I read somewhere that you built a LA several years ago using these same M-130 drivers? If so, how did those turn out?

Unfortunately, that extra $360 for the XBL drivers is a bit much for me at the moment. When the time comes to purchase everything, if I have the extra cash I'll go for the XBL's. But for right now, they are out of my range. However, I probably won't be buying anything for a couple months anyway, so you never know.  aa

We had a array not line array.The RA8 was a 3 way with a sealed MTM then 3 woofers above and below the MTM.

But if you can look at the over all project, yes it is over $300.00 for the XBL woofers are they worth it,
worth every penny X 10 fold.
Spend your money on things you know cost the most at the point when needed.Drivers are the one time investment so pick them once.I can not tell you how many people contacted us after the XBL M-130X woofer came out, asking if they could drop in.
For you yes they will drop in your design as you are not using a passive crossover but the cost will be far more than $360.00.

As well you will always ask youself.
What if would they sound like if I had got the M-130X woofers!! :banghead:

S Clark

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Another way to save $ is to remember that the M130X has a significantly higher Xmax.  You would probably be happier with 16 M130x's over 24 M130's.  Just a thought.  Although I have used the M130 lots of times, Al has more experience with the M130X.  I defer to his greater experience.

RAW

Lets just say using the M-130X woofers in his arrangement will put a can of whoop onto a pair of LS9.

Did i just say that.No way :lol:

The M-130X woofers have more out put than the M-130 drivers, as well as more extention in lower frequency.
Danny found this out after a while with the XBL drivers never mind what software says or specs.The same driver just like the M-130 plays lower and has more out put with XBL.

This showed in the RAV1 design.The first pair built which were then sent to Danny to do the crossover and then were in the shoot out.Over all the RAV1 the shoot out did not do good due to largely with the cabinet volume being to small.With the XBL woofers they also need more volume over the standard M-130 woofer.(never mind the specs) the M-130X woofers need more volume.Personally I would add in another 10% to 25% more volume to the cabinet size and use the M-130X woofer.
Tune the line array down in the 42hz range and with room loading  :deadhorse:

Using the M-130X woofer will yield cleaner mids as well as more dynamics from the driver than the standard M-130 will.

Chops

Alright, you guys are killing me with the M-130x driver! LOL The two of you have sold me on the XBL drivers. Man, there goes more money out of my wallet!  :lol:

Seriously though, you think this combo could put a hurtin' on the LS6/9's?! I would be extremely shocked it if did, being smaller drivers and all.

After plugging in the XBL parameters into WinISD Pro, for 12 drivers, it is coming up with a 6.307cf enclosure, and for whatever reason the tuning frequency comes up blank. I have no clue how close this is to an actual enclosure for these drivers like what you suggested. Also, do you have any idea of the power rating of the M-130X drivers?

Many thanks for the great info so far!

Danny Richie

Okay I am back.

That will be a lot of speaker for no larger than that room is.

Yes, the X version is a better all around woofer and is worth considering if it is within your budget.

Scott brings up a pretty good point too in that you could easily get by with a smaller line. 9 woofers in series parallel will get you right back to an 8 ohm nominal load with a minimal dip to 5.5 ohms.

You could match that with 8 of the tweeters. They are more of a pure resistive load and if your amp can handle a 4 ohm nominal load okay then you could run them as 4 groups of 2. The minimal dip should be about 3.8 ohms.

Since you are using the Behringer and separate amps you won't have to worry about matching the output levels.

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1) What is the best enclosure size and type for these drivers to produce the widest range of sound and bass extention?

I'd go .4 cubic feet per woofer for the standard M-130 and push the M-130X to about .45 cubic feet per woofer.

Bass extension will increase depending on the length of the line. The longer the line the more collective gain you will get in the lower frequency ranges and the more low end extension from the coupling of more drivers.

Also the longer the line the lower you can tune it to offset the low end gain.

A single M-130X woofer will hit a -3db of 54Hz if placed in a .45 cubic foot enclosure and tuned to 48Hz.

A line of 9 of them will extend that -3db point to about 40 to 42Hz.

12 of them could get you into the 38Hz to 40Hz range. This doesn't take into account any room gain.

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2) If ported, what tuning freq is going to give the best results?

It depends on the number used. If your room really does add output in the 20 to 40Hz range then you might want to tune them a little lower than normal to get more extension without added gain in the 40Hz and up region.

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3) If ported, is it really necessary to have one port per driver or can I get away with only (3) or (4) 3"-4" ports total per ch?

What you want to do is load each driver evenly. If some drivers are closer to the ports than others then it will effect them differently. So a port per woofer keeps that from being a problem.

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4) What is the highest xover freq one can get away with with the M-130's in a LA, taking into consideration the C-T-C spacing of these drivers?

You could do 2kHz to 2.5kHz with these in a line source with no problem. This is good because those tweeters really can be pushed lower then 2kHz.

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5) How do you think this kind of LA will perform in the real world?

It would be really good. I have no doubt.

6) What are these little M-130 drivers capable of when in large LA's like what I'm planning?

As far as output? They are capable of levels way louder than you can stand. Each woofer can easily handle 100 watt continuous peaks all day long. Start adding that up...

It's not going to out perform an LS-6 or LS-9 but could play a little bit louder given the same input. The real difference is the performance of the tweeters. Being able to cross the custom BG's so low is a really big deal and allows for a resolution and detail level that can't be matched by any woofers that would otherwise have to cover that range if used with the Dayton planar or true ribbon designs.

The woofers used in the LS series are also designed to play much lower.

There are also price breaks on our woofers at 24, 48, and 96 units.  aa


Chops

Well hello Danny. Glad to have you back and I have to say that it's a great privilege for you to take the time to answer my questions. I really appreciate it!  :bowdown:  LOL

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That will be a lot of speaker for no larger than that room is.

This kind of had me confused... Still does actually.  :scratch:


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Bass extension will increase depending on the length of the line. The longer the line the more collective gain you will get in the lower frequency ranges and the more low end extension from the coupling of more drivers.

Also the longer the line the lower you can tune it to offset the low end gain.

12 of them could get you into the 38Hz to 40Hz range. This doesn't take into account any room gain.

Just because I am one for overkill, and because I don't mind saving up and spending money on good quality sound, I'm defiantely going to be using 12 M-130X drivers per side (even if there wasn't a quantity discount, but there is so it helps!). Spending this much on this project, I want it to be well worth it which also means getting as much as I can out of it performance-wise. I want these speakers to cover as much as the audio range as possible and sound great doing it so I can listen to just about anything including pipe organ music without the aid of a sub. For movies however, I will fire up the sub for that extra punch and have the mains crossed over at 50Hz.

I also have big plans for 8 of your SW-12B drivers, but that's a different story for another time and thread.  aa


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It depends on the number used. If your room really does add output in the 20 to 40Hz range then you might want to tune them a little lower than normal to get more extension without added gain in the 40Hz and up region.

Alright. So since we know that I'll be using 12 M-130X drivers per channel and the nature of my room, roughly how low would you say the tuning should be, 45Hz, 40Hz, 35Hz, etc, etc?


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What you want to do is load each driver evenly. If some drivers are closer to the ports than others then it will effect them differently. So a port per woofer keeps that from being a problem.

That's what I thought you were getting at with using one port per driver. What I was thinking though for mine (and to keep costs down some) was to use six ports spaced between every two drivers. So in a sense, each port would have it's own two drivers.


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You could do 2kHz to 2.5kHz with these in a line source with no problem. This is good because those tweeters really can be pushed lower then 2kHz.

So the M-130X drivers can be pushed up to 2.5kHz with their C-T-C spacing. Cool. Now that second part you mentioned about the tweeter is where I nearly go my head handed to me on another forum. According to Parts Express, the Dayton PT2C-8 planars can only handle a xover freq as low as 2.5kHz as a single driver, but 2kHz with multiples. You're saying that they can actually go lower than that, which is also what I said, and that's when I got beeaten' with the ugly stick! LOL


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As far as output? They are capable of levels way louder than you can stand.

Actually, I was referring more to overall sound reproduction. I'm guessing you've never built a line array with the M-130X drivers so this might be a tough question to answer. Max SPL isn't much of an issue since I know that these monsters will do a lot more than what I can possibly stand listening to. Plus I value my ears way too much.


Now for a few more quick questions...

1) So you get a little more lower frequency gain with a longer line, then you tune the line lower to take advantage of that lower gain? Then on top of that, you can tune even a bit lower to get below the 40Hz range of room gain in my particular room?

2) What size ports do you use on the LS-6/9's? What size would you recommend for my project? The reason I ask is because even at 48Hz in a 5.4cf enclosure, (8) 3" ports are already exceeding 10" in length. At least that's what WinISD Pro comes up with.

3) If being able to tune a bit lower, should the enclosure be a bit larger as well?

This is the big question of the day... if you don't mind giving it a shot...

4) If you had 24 of the M-130X drivers and 16 of the Dayton planars sitting right in front of you, how would you go about getting the absolute best performance out of them regardless of what room they are going in, kind of like becoming the baby version of the LS-9's so to speak?


I just want it to be clear that I am not all about max SPL and bass extension. More than anything else, I want these speakers to sound as good as they can throughout the widest range that they are capable of reproducing. I know the end results rely on my room and the way I end up voicing them with my DCX2496. I'm probably looking for the same kind of qualities that you were when you designed the LS-6's and 9's. My main concern as it always has been is 2-ch music playback. That is 100% more important to me than watching movies through this system. And I listen to all sorts of music from pipe organ to jazz to rock to pop to whatever.

Anyway, many many thanks in advance for your help and info. As I said before, it is greatly appreciated!  :wink:

Danny Richie

First off I am sorry about a typo here:

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You could do 2kHz to 2.5kHz with these in a line source with no problem. This is good because those tweeters really can be pushed lower then 2kHz.

I meant "This is good because those tweeters really CAN"T be pushed lower then 2kHz."

I left out the 't. Sorry about that. It really changed the meaning of the sentence didn't it.

Those tweeters really shouldn't be pushed any lower than that.

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I'm defiantely going to be using 12 M-130X drivers per side


You can make that work but you will need to also work with room treatment as a speaker of that size in a room of that size will load the room a little.

We have had Alpha LS line sources and LS-6's in the 13' by 19' hotel room at the RMAF and had to treat the room pretty heavy plus dial the bass management system down quite a bit to minimize room loading. Both were dialed in really well but I couldn't have dropped them into an untreated room with good results at all.

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Alright. So since we know that I'll be using 12 M-130X drivers per channel and the nature of my room, roughly how low would you say the tuning should be, 45Hz, 40Hz, 35Hz, etc, etc?

Considering what you have said about your room I'd put them in 5.75 cubic feet and tune them to 40Hz. This will help pull down a little of the gain you'll get in the lower end from a line this large.

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What I was thinking though for mine (and to keep costs down some) was to use six ports spaced between every two drivers. So in a sense, each port would have it's own two drivers.


You could do that. I'd use a 3" flared port per every other driver and each one will need to be 7.75" long not counting the flare.

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1) So you get a little more lower frequency gain with a longer line, then you tune the line lower to take advantage of that lower gain? Then on top of that, you can tune even a bit lower to get below the 40Hz range of room gain in my particular room?

The short answer is yes.

On gain an line length: I designed some line sources for Epiphany Audio several years ago. The single 4" woofer used in those could be loaded in such a way as to get a -3db of 57Hz. In reality 6 of them per speaker in a short 6/6 model line array would hit a -3db around the 50Hz range and even into the upper 40's in most rooms. The 12/12 model used 12 of those woofers per speaker and it easily could hit -3db points in the mid 40's in most rooms. The larger 20/21 model used 20 woofers per speaker and could easily hit -3db points in the upper 30's. The longer the line the more collective gain you get from them in the lower frequency ranges.

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2) What size ports do you use on the LS-6/9's? What size would you recommend for my project? The reason I ask is because even at 48Hz in a 5.4cf enclosure, ( 3" ports are already exceeding 10" in length. At least that's what WinISD Pro comes up with.

The LS series uses a single 2" flared port per woofer. If only using 6 ports for 12 M-130X woofers you'll have to use 3" ports. Bumping up that box volume a little will cut some of that length out as well. So length won't be a problem.

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3) If being able to tune a bit lower, should the enclosure be a bit larger as well?

This is the big question of the day... if you don't mind giving it a shot...

As per above, the answer is yes. You can make it a little larger.

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4) If you had 24 of the M-130X drivers and 16 of the Dayton planars sitting right in front of you, how would you go about getting the absolute best performance out of them regardless of what room they are going in, kind of like becoming the baby version of the LS-9's so to speak?

Load the drivers as per mentioned above and cross near 2kHz.

You will need to use the power of the Behringer to adjust the output levels off both the woofers and the tweeters within their own pass band and not just adjust them at the crossover point. Being able to measure your output of each of those groups of drivers to make adjustments is the key to making this work well.

Chops

Thanks for all of the wonderful help Danny. I really appreciate it. It sounds like these would turn out to be really great speakers. However...

After thinking about it more, I'm not sure if I'm going to go with these, and the ONLY reason I'm saying this is because there's simply no way I could possibly build them on my own. I have just about zero wood working skills and only basic hand tools (jig saw, hand drill, etc, etc) to work with, and I really don't even have the space to work on them.

If there were one of those "flat pack" kits, I'd probably go for it, but since this is a custom job, no such kit exists, plus it would most likely put the total cost way out of my range, which it already kind of is. So I am kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place. I even began to look at the OB-5, OB-7 and OB-7 Plus kits that you offer, but again, it's up to the customer to build enclosures for them. However, the OB-7 is a smaller, simpler design so I could probably pull that one off pretty good. It would be really nice if at least the baffles were available for purchase. That for me is the hardest part to do more than anything else. If I were to build the OB-7's, I'd just sand them down good and put on several good coats of paint since I don't have the fist clue about laying veneer. Plus the other thing I really like about the OB-7's over the others including the line arrays is that the OB-7's are small! These would probably be a much better match to my room and would definately save some space.

So that's where I'm at right now. I'm pretty much leaning towards the OB-7 or just buying something that's already built. And the only problem with that last part is that there's really nothing out there that interests me, and the few that do cost about as much as my Miata sitting out in the driveway! On the other hand, your designs DO interest me. The main reason I think that is is because I love the sound of fullrange loudspeakers using nothing but small drivers. There's nothing like the fast and tight control of a small, light weight driver. Plus the fact that the bottom four drivers are in a sealed enclosure makes it even better probably (a lot less group delay - a.k.a. - cleaner, crisper bass).

So, any thoughts on this one? Sorry for being so long-winded and doing a 180 on this whole project thing.

Again, thanks for everything!

-Charles

Danny Richie

Here you go: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=49128.0

Another great choice by the way.

Hank

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 Chops, when I read your last post, I was about to suggeat Daygloworange's flats, but Danny beat me to it.  I don't think you can get a local wood shop to do them for a better price, so go for it and enjoy! :thumb:

Chops

Yes, I do think I will, and at the same time, I'll even upgrade to the M-130X drivers.  :thumb:

JH

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Bass extension will increase depending on the length of the line. The longer the line the more collective gain you will get in the lower frequency ranges and the more low end extension from the coupling of more drivers.

Can you expand on this more? What happens over the other (non-lower) frequency ranges?

Thanks


Chops

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Here you go: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=49128.0

Another great choice by the way.

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Chops, when I read your last post, I was about to suggeat Daygloworange's flats, but Danny beat me to it.  I don't think you can get a local wood shop to do them for a better price, so go for it and enjoy!


I just wanted to add that when I saw that thread earlier, I thought those flats were only available for a short period of time. But after rereading it, it was only the special offer that was for a short time. I just know that when I do order, there could be a delay depending on Denny's other work. Definately some darn nice skills with that wood!  :drool:

Daygloworange

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We added a few more, and still have 2 more OB 7 flat packs available.  :green:

We are also doing a horizontal OB 7 center channel. Pics will follow shortly on that.

Cheers

Danny Richie

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Can you expand on this more? What happens over the other (non-lower) frequency ranges?


Let's see. You have made 6 posts now. The first five are all in Rick's circle and this is the first post made outside of Rick's circle. You then ask something that most people here know that Rick does not understand. Hmmmmm.....

Looks to me like this question is from Rick.

Rick, I think I have educated you enough already. Go figure this one out on your own. Start taking some measurements.

Hint, if you have a line source to measure you'll need a room larger than your bedroom to measure it in.