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I don't know specifically about Bryan's design, but that doesn't sound like it'll work. By putting ply or drywall up, you are blocking most of the sound from getting to the area Bryan designed. You need fabric or some other porous material that will allow sound to travel through to get to the absorptive stuff inside those columns. I would suggest cutting out an inch of the drywall on those columns in both corners where they meet the walls. Then cover that 1" vertical gap with fabric or something non-reflective and you'll have a custom corner trap!Nathan LoyerEighth Nerve
Not sure if a 1" gap along each wall would be a significant opening to do anything?
May well be from a frequency response standpoint - more concerned with decay time in the bottom end. For purposes of calculations, those corner columns do almost nothing. For a membrane (sealed) like that to work, it must be, well, sealed air tight for the air inside to act as a spring. It's likely doing a little something but hard to tell what or where.If it was me, I'd get some 4" behind the curtains or in front of them and likely the same centered on the rear wall before I'd worry more about anything more on the side walls. You might also want to consider doing some 4" along the bottom of the recessed area up front (under the window and under the 2 panels you already have up there.)It's also possible to do some 4" on the SIDES of those front columns. I'm sure there's quite a buildup in that little nook and that would be an easy way to deal with it.Danny, You wouldn't want to do that to 244's. Again, for a hard face massive face like plywood to work effectively, it needs to be over a sealed cavity with absorbtion close (not touching) the plywood. Even if you do it right, you'd turn a broadband absorber into an absorber that would work efficiently over about 1.5 octaves only.Bryan
What kind of effect would triangulating the front wall to side wall corners have on frequency response/ringing/echo etc.