[Jazz-Vinyl]

Hello Frank....

Thanks to your published mod - I have Outboarded the Power Supply on my HK T55C table, and plan to do the same to (2) T25 tables as well. 

The difference in the table after the mod was absolutely outstanding!  Appreciate your letting the world know how to do this.

I know that you still use your HK T30 table and I am wanting to lube my arm bearings as you have done. 

What is the best arm-lube procedure to use on the T25 (I assume it's very similar to your T30)?

Also, will be ordering a Grado Longhorn from you very soon.

Appreciate.

 

[Listens2tubes]

HI J-V,
 Frank no longer offers the Longhorn so you'll have to go DIY. Check out: http://www.avahifi.com/root/audio_basics/ab_pdf/ab1982.pdf  Scroll down to page 8 - Volume One Number Four April 1982 

[Jazz-Vinyl]

Poop, I missed it 'eh!!

Okay.  I can DIY something as you suggest.  I also think the little Ortofon's do well on these very light HK arms.

I have done Frank's outboard Power Supply mod on an HK T55C and a T25.  Did some comparing today, and I think the soundstage is larger on the T55C (it's a suspended table).  Still have to install Plast-i-clay inside the T25, that might make a nice difference too.  Frank noted long ago that he thought his T30 (almost the same as the T25) went deeper than the T55/T60 tables.  I think I also heard a deeper pitch on the T25, but like I said, the seems like soundstage on the suspended table is noticably larger (to my ears).

Appreciate the reply...

[Listens2tubes]

I used the instructions from the Audio Basics article to mod a Grado cart I had been given. I posted the results back in the summer.

[Wayner]

Sorry, Jazz-vinyl, I got the very last Longhorn.

Wayner  aa

[Jazz-Vinyl]

Okay Wayner!!

Attaching a bar is no problem at all, but how does one "damp the internal coils" - do you know?

Appreciate!!

[Wayner]

You take off the stylus and drop a few drops of 1000 centistoke liquid silicone directly onto the coils. Then replace the stylus. Next, put one drop of the silicone directly on the stylus cantilever. As a reminder when you make the longhorn, put quite a bit of solder (in equal amounts) into each end of the channel, then use 2-part epoxy to glue the longhorn to the front of the cartridge body. After that, fill the open areas of the channel with plasticlay....and your done. I'm sure you know the process for the making the longhorn out the AudioBasics, anyway. Make sure the longhorn is even and square to the cartridge.

Good luck. If I can do it, anybody can.

W 

[avahifi]

Actually you don't want to just put a drop of silicon on the stylus tube, you want it to go into the hole from which the stylus appears and is mounted.  In the little hole is the base of the stylus, a kind of metal plate bonded to a bit of an elastic something that lets the stylus move about, but not too much or it would bottom out permanently.  Anyway, the metal plate is wiggling in the presence of the coils and this generates the output signal.  The silicon essentially damps out of range high frequency resonances and makes things sound so sweet in their absence.

Happy New Year all,

Frank Van Alstine

[Wayner]

Thanks for clearing up my little oops up, Frank. I now remember doing as you described, the old memory stick is starting to fail me, I think.

W