What solder do you use?

Theo · « **on:** 25 Dec 2007, 07:18 pm »

What do you use or recommend? Is 2-3% silver content solder much better sounding than standard 60/40 solder? Some has copper content as well; any use? I've been using 60/40. Am I compromising sound quality?

tanchiro58 · « **Reply #1 on:** 25 Dec 2007, 08:33 pm »

Thing is what kind of solder is easy to melt down and dry fast. I have used the Radioshack's solder which has 4% silver but its melting point takes too long so you can kill the components by almost burning them and they took too long to get dry. The cheapest solder is the worst. IMO if the solder joints are too dry the sound get stiff and harsh and easy to brake. This way will drive you crazy to find which solder joints have "no good contact" which affect the sound. Besides you also need a good and cheap solder station with a convenient tips.

It is your choice. I use Vampire solder from now on. Good luck.

jeffreybehr · « **Reply #2 on:** 25 Dec 2007, 08:53 pm »

Cardas Quad Tectic.

mark funk · « **Reply #3 on:** 26 Dec 2007, 12:09 am »

Kester 44 Solder

anumber1 · « **Reply #4 on:** 26 Dec 2007, 05:06 am »

Kester 44.

Best all around solder on the market and has been for years.

hagtech · « **Reply #5 on:** 26 Dec 2007, 07:13 am »

Kester 44.

In fact, I recently bought an entire case, to hedge against any RoHS shortages (we repeat history, this same lesson was learned back in the 50s and 60s, when it was discovered that adding lead to solder fixed many of the problems).

jh

Bill Epstein · « **Reply #6 on:** 26 Dec 2007, 10:22 am »

Cardas Quad Eutectic.

I like its working properties: low melting point, clean, shiny joints and a bit of silver for soldering silver wires. $45/lb. may seem a lot but I've done quite a bit of work and the pound bought 4 years ago still has more than half to go.

markC · « **Reply #7 on:** 26 Dec 2007, 02:43 pm »

Kester 44. Easy to work with and doesn't leave a lot of gunk behind.

amandarae · « **Reply #8 on:** 26 Dec 2007, 08:02 pm »

Kester 44!

Theo · « **Reply #9 on:** 26 Dec 2007, 08:10 pm »

Quote from: hagtech on 26 Dec 2007, 07:13 am

Kester 44.

In fact, I recently bought an entire case, to hedge against any RoHS shortages (we repeat history, this same lesson was learned back in the 50s and 60s, when it was discovered that adding lead to solder fixed many of the problems).

jh

Is there any reasons or benefits to use silver bearing solder of 2-3% into the mix?

Bill Epstein · « **Reply #10 on:** 26 Dec 2007, 11:10 pm »

Silver content is said to be necessary to get a proper bond to silver wires and connectors. It also raises the melting point making it more difficult to work with. The Cardas and others have 2-3% silver which doesn't require too much heat. Some have 4% or more, like jewelers use and that's a headache for the typical pencil iron. Both Kester "44" and Cardas are "eutectic", i.e. their tin/lead/silver alloys change coincidentally from 'solidus' to 'liquidus' at the lowest possible temp point . Non-eutectic solder has a 'plastic' phase during which one metal is still 'liquidus' while the other has hardened. If there is movement before all become 'solidus' cracks may develop and a 'cold' joint ensue. Lead-free solder is always non-eutectic and more difficult to work with. Silver and, I think, antimony are eutectic with lead and tin.

This whole lead-free thing by the EEC is kinda nuts; have you seen the 'safe' speaker terminals with plastic housings that make attachment a chore? How "green" are those plastic housings? Someday, the European countryside will be over-run with them.

There are entire threads on the Asylum devoted to the differing sonics of various solder as well as paeans to lead-free, some by manufacturers. This reviewer can't hear any difference mainly because I haven't bothered to listen for it. How do you listen to a component, take it to the bench, open it up, de-solder, re-solder, and then re-connect and have any memory of what the original sounded like?

DaveC113 · « **Reply #11 on:** 27 Dec 2007, 12:04 am »

Quote from: Bill Epstein on 26 Dec 2007, 11:10 pm

...Lead-free solder is always non-eutectic...

Johnson IA 423 is a tin/silver/copper eutectic alloy. Its slightly more difficult to work with than leaded solder, but not too bad.

ratso · « **Reply #12 on:** 27 Dec 2007, 12:20 am »

what guage do you guys like to use?

riffer · « **Reply #13 on:** 27 Dec 2007, 12:25 am »

Quote from: jeffreybehr on 25 Dec 2007, 08:53 pm

Cardas Quad Tectic.

Me too!

BobM · « **Reply #14 on:** 27 Dec 2007, 12:29 am »

And can you say again ... Kester 44.

Bought a big spool of this from Digikey many years ago when I needed a $1 part and they were going to charge me another $5 for handling charges. One of the best order fill-ins I ever made.

Enjoy,
Bob

tanchiro58 · « **Reply #15 on:** 27 Dec 2007, 12:31 am »

Quote from: ratso on 27 Dec 2007, 12:20 am

what guage do you guys like to use?

Ratso,

I use 0.020, 0.025 and 0.030.

Is this are you guys using?

Quote

http://www.filmtools.com/soke044reone.html

zacster · « **Reply #16 on:** 27 Dec 2007, 03:06 am »

I've used Rat Shack silver 3% and their 60/40. The silver was difficult to use because it needs a lot of heat, whereas the 60/40 leaves nice shiny joints.

I should just buy a Weller iron and some Kester 44 some day since they seem to be everyone's choice.

tanchiro58 · « **Reply #17 on:** 27 Dec 2007, 04:24 am »

This is a solder station I have used now

Quote

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/8396

Folsom · « **Reply #18 on:** 30 Dec 2007, 01:53 am »

I have been using WTB silver and it works great. The melting point is real nice and low, no lead, and organic resin. I also like that it comes solid enough off the roll that it is easy to stick in my mouth and push onto stuff I am holding, or whatever I want to do.

xlrider · « **Reply #19 on:** 30 Dec 2007, 03:33 pm »

OK, the consensus seems to be Kester 44. Now, what diameter is the best?
Tim