[pjchappy]

I want to try some sort of combination of isolation/vibration drainage.

I will buy a nice and thick solid maple cutting board.  Then, cones under the CDP from Mapleshade w/ weights on top.  Then, isolate this entire thing on Mapleshade's cork/rubber isolators.  

Figured a combo of vibration drainage into the board then isolating this would help w/ both internal vibrations, vibrations through the ground, and airborne vibrations from the music.

Sound good?

well, after looking at the Mapleshade site, this is exactly my idea and what I would like to do:



p

[gary]

my suggestion would be to use two granite surface plates, with an innertube inbetween. then put whatever rubber pads you're using on the top surface plate, right underneath your component. i work in the optics industry, and our interferometric microscopes always sit on newport pneumatic isolation tables with active damping, they cost over $100k but you'd get very close to the same performance with this setup for well under $100.

grizzly.com sells small granite surface plates for unbelieveably cheap prices, and if you really want to use those cork things from mapleshade, you can buy the same exact thing  from mcmaster carr for a fraction of the price.

-gary

[Gordy]

I've my cdp and tube amp spiked to thick butcher block and use aurios for isolation, though any of the bearing types will work.  It's a great combo for my situation.  The experience I have with the cork/rubber feet is that we were using them under five decimal place Mettler balances and found them to be about the same as the supplied hard rubber feet - useless.  Ended up using dense wool mats. Sonically, I'll stick to bearing types.

Gordy

[eduard]

Hello, at the company i did make a thin ( 0.8 mm ) stainless steel box lined on the inside with lead sheets attached by a tar-like glue. Then filled it with sand. Total weight is about 35 kilogrammes. My Rega Jupiter cdp just sits completely in the sand. I was unable to remove the feet on the Rega otherwise i would have replaced them with a small heatsink that will function like a kind of ancre to couple it to the sand. Instead of stainless steel you can also use wood but stainless steel is much easier for me. It can be thin because the sand and lead will dampen it completely. Maybe by filling a plastic box , with the shape of a sink, bought in a store you can get an idea of the benefits. The dimension of my box are 62*38*9 centimeters. If the plastic box will give an improvement you can go for a wooden one. Take care the sand will create a lot of pressure and please make sure the sand is 100% dry by heating it an oven or and old pan. Succes and let us knoe, Ed

[LAL]

The Mapleshade solution should work fine for vertical vibration but won't do much for horizonal. I use their cones under my preamp to a maple board which then sits on a sandwich of two layers of minicel polyethyene with a closed cell polyethlene in between(see foambymail). For components with moving parts I use DIY rollerbearings. They isolate  horizontally and  will transmit internally generated vibration into the maple board like cones do. From there the foam sandwich does it's work by killing the vibration. The roller bearings work well with CD players and turntables. Go to the tweak section of the Audio Asylum and search on roller bearing for addition info.