[roymail]

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=45643.0

Randy, when you place the woofer onto the front baffle with the threaded rods sticking through the mounting holes on the woofer, I assume you'll use nuts and washers to snug down the speaker?  How will you trim off the excess rod?  Using 1x2's and steel rods should make for a pretty strong box.

Some years ago I built a sub kit from ACI using the SV-10 and their plate amp in a 1.75 cu. in. ported cabinet.  It was made using standard MDF 3/4" and window bracing.  It had prodigious amounts of quality bass which was much better than my old Velodyne.  I gave the sub to my son for Christmas, but I'd love to have one just like it.  They're not available any longer.

After reading nearly the entire Rythmik website, I'm pretty impressed with their knowledge, experience, r&d and products.  I bet you end up with a top notch sub for a bargain price.  Please let me know more about the results.

slbenz, I plan to talk with several places like Rythmik audio, Madisound, Meniscus, Parts Express, etc about the dimensions of my Velodyne box to get a better idea of what I could do to rebuild my old sub with new stuff.  Although the Velodyne is at least 10 years old, it still works great for what it is.  I could probably sell off the parts (servo controlled woofer and matching amp) to help finance the rebuild.  Or, use it for a music sub... still thinking this out.

[randytsuch]

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=45643.0

Randy, when you place the woofer onto the front baffle with the threaded rods sticking through the mounting holes on the woofer, I assume you'll use nuts and washers to snug down the speaker?  How will you trim off the excess rod?  Using 1x2's and steel rods should make for a pretty strong box.

Yes, I will use nuts and lock washers to hold the driver down.  I don't plan to trim down the excess rod, they will just stick out of the driver a little.  They need to be long enough to stick through the driver, but they probably could be a little shorter, but 1/2" less was too short.

I am not using 1x2's anymore, just using a bunch of threaded rods.  I glued 7/16" rods to the #10 rods that hold the driver, and added 6 more 1/2" rods on the side walls.  The rods intersect inside the box, to make them even stiffer.  Will post pics shortly on the other thread.

Randy

[slbenz]

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=45643.0

Randy, when you place the woofer onto the front baffle with the threaded rods sticking through the mounting holes on the woofer, I assume you'll use nuts and washers to snug down the speaker?  How will you trim off the excess rod?  Using 1x2's and steel rods should make for a pretty strong box.

Some years ago I built a sub kit from ACI using the SV-10 and their plate amp in a 1.75 cu. in. ported cabinet.  It was made using standard MDF 3/4" and window bracing.  It had prodigious amounts of quality bass which was much better than my old Velodyne.  I gave the sub to my son for Christmas, but I'd love to have one just like it.  They're not available any longer.

After reading nearly the entire Rythmik website, I'm pretty impressed with their knowledge, experience, r&d and products.  I bet you end up with a top notch sub for a bargain price.  Please let me know more about the results.

slbenz, I plan to talk with several places like Rythmik audio, Madisound, Meniscus, Parts Express, etc about the dimensions of my Velodyne box to get a better idea of what I could do to rebuild my old sub with new stuff.  Although the Velodyne is at least 10 years old, it still works great for what it is.  I could probably sell off the parts (servo controlled woofer and matching amp) to help finance the rebuild.  Or, use it for a music sub... still thinking this out.

Roymail,

Whatever you decide, just keep us informed.  Would be interesting to hear what you finally end up with.  Hope you find the solution you are looking for.

Slbenz