[tubesforever]

Jim I was wondering looking at the Piccolo power I plan to use the 6v Hammond output over to the top hole and take the ground line back to neutral power.  I would think this would be the correct sequence.

I have not mounted the plug in wall wart power plug piece.  I doubt this will effect the unit in any way.  Is this correct?

The signal inputs and outputs are going to be hairy.  Those big huge RCA PCB holes are like a half mile wide.  I plan to just tack solder my input and output wires to a small portion of the trace bead surface.  If this works can I take a small gauge drill and punch a hole though that trace to get better connectivity? 

Just as a tiny suggestion, in the future Piccolo versions can you provide a positive and negative hole for those of us that are internally mounting this critter? 

I plan to heavily shield the wires going from my switches to the input on the Cornet2.  Possibly double braided shielding and some aluminum foil wrap just for the hell of it! 

I hope to have this fired up in about 3 hours without the Piccolo connected just to see what noise I get from the input selector switch.

Thanks to JH and to everyone else that has been so helpful along the way of my custom Cornet2 build.  Thanks for all the help along the way. 

I hope everything will be perfect when it all gets powered up.  If you Hagerman groupies are like me...this is the witching hour.  So if you are the praying type, hold your hands up to the sky and send me a rebel yell.

[hagtech]

You don't need a negative hole.  The supply return will be through the RCA outputs.  Otherwise you end up creating a ground loop.  That's why there is the inductor and extra filtering on the supply input - keeps the noise currents through the ground as quiet as possible.  Use a decent ground return on the RCA outputs and you'll be ok.

Oh yeah, I also like to add a 0.1uF cap to the heater supply on the CORNET2 board (back of socket).  Not sure if it makes any difference, but I like to decouple noise in both directions (C2 to P, P to C2).

Make sure the metal shafts get grounded.  Otherwise they can couple 60Hz right into the box and onto the selector switch, etc.

jh

[tubesforever]

Thanks Jim, I am pretty sure that even with the glue and the synthetic grease the brass to bronze to aluminum has a solid contact to the earth ground.

I will check this tonight!

If not I will ground the items as suggested. 

So power can come straight from the Green Hammond transformer output to the input.  I ground the thing to the neutral of the IEC.  This is what it takes to power up.

The positive inputs can go to the input and positive outputs back to the C2 inputs.  I am not using RCA at all on the board  So is the grounding coming from the ground post connection or from the neutral connection.  I will want to star ground this back to the main IEC to prevent ground loops. 

I powered up the C2 last night.  I have two rectifier tubes at this time and both are used and show testing figures on the box.  The 6106 put out 15% lower B+ supply and the big bottle was within 9%.  I will let you know how it sounds tonight.  It was 11:20 pm when I got everything powered up and I do not want to get evicted.

If I like these rectifier tubes I imagine I can just change the resistor value to get the B+ where it needs to be. 

I might try a new Sovtec first just to make sure I like what I hear before making any changes to the board.

BTW....I am very impressed with the kit and the designer!

[hagtech]

So power can come straight from the Green Hammond transformer output

No, I meant from the 6.3Vdc heater tap.

jh