In 1987 I owned a Townshend Rock Mk. I (or maybe it was II) and it was fitted with a Helius Orin tonearm (gorgeous, gold trimmed affair) and a modded (can't remember the modder's name) cheapie Grado (I think it was a $40 model). Paired with my Superphon Dual Mono preamp at the time...with a couple of different speakers...it was
the best vinyl setup ever in my possession. Until now, that is.
Being a fiscally irresponsible youth back then (since long rectified), I had to sell the setup for beer and rent money. I had a near-20 year journey trying to find something that powerful, moving, detailed and involving. I had assumed it was the Rock TT, or the very nice Helius arm. Turns out it was most likely some combination of these...with the cheapie Grado.
Which leads me to chronicle the improvements I've made to the stock Grado for many to use in
your journey....
1.
Fluid damped arms seem a pre-requisite to get the most from Grado's. It firms up the oft-tubby bass bloat thru critical damping. The Grado's are notoriously un or underdamped....Joseph and now, John, Grado feel damping robs the life from the music. Maybe so, but the stock Grado is
too underdamped for it's own good, I find.
2.
Van Alstine Longhorn and Silicone Oil Damping. See 1982 Audio Basics provided by Frank van Alstine, for free, on his website. This 'tweek' will improve tracking and critically damp the coils...perhaps so much so that it can be used on even Rega's and Technics; which are generally unadvised for Grado's due to the dreaded hum. It's a common misconception that this is due to EMI from unshielded motors...rather, it seems due to microvibrations from Rega's and most direct drive tables affecting the un-damped character of the Grado. Damp the coils are you're well on your way to reducing
any hum interaction from any table.
3.
The Plast-i-Lator. A 1/8" pinch of Plast-i-Clay or other between the headhsell and your cartridge body works to again firm up the imaging, so it's in the super holographic league. It was after this addition that my Grado Green began making all other cartridges seem
sickly in comparison

3.
The newer Prestige-series. They have a better motor than any previous Grado series. If you are enjoying your Z, G, or Signature series...a purchase of even a new Black model will probably prove beneficial to you. They are better - as indicated to me by longtime Grado Chief Engineer John Chaipas.
4.
Line stylus versus Elliptical. It now costs $1200 or so before you get a proper line stylus in Grado's line. It's likely because the real differences in the $40 Black model and the range topping $1200-$2500 model are likely very, very, small. You're paying a LOT for that extra 10% in performance....and
most of that is likely the change from Elliptical to Line (or Shibata) stylus.
5.
Damping the stylus assembly. Take the smallest dab of Plast-i-Clay and spread a super-thin swipe across the bottom of the stylus assembly. The entire soundstage firms up impressively yet again. This last 'tweek' pales next to the benfit of the 4 above it, but every bit helps.
If you are an owner of one of the higher line older model Grado's, you can interchange that better stylus assembly into the newer Prestige models perfectly. Grado has the same tooling for that part for 40 years or so now. If that higher line model is the 1+ or 2+ series or Joseph Grado Signatures....and have been fitted with Line (Shibata) styli....you are the holder of a HUGE upgrade for your Prestige Grado. The difference between the styli on Grado's is vast

...gone is the end-of-record sibilance, most of the mis or poor tracking and in it's place is the sweetest, most properly extended music you can ever imagine.
The CartridgeMan in the UK gets US$1200 for a Grado Silver with a Line Stylus and damped body and coils - and is lauded for
it's sonics. I rather laud CartridgeMan for
his financial acumen of taking a $150 cartridge, adding maybe $250 in 'tweeks' and tripling it's price from there. You don't need to - it can be done for a whole
lot less.
None of the above overcomes poor arm set up or geometry, poor isolation, or a poorly made turntable...but if yo have those done correctly, and implement the above 'tweeks', you're apt to have a vinyl setup of the highest order at hand - for a lot less than you'd think you have to spend for it.
I am completely agnostic to brands and have no economic or financial reason to extol the virtues of Grado cartridges..I just hear what I hear and hope that the above is helpful to some of you in advancing your vinyl tunes
