[AudioSoul]

    Anyone building any of the kits that require puncing holes in the chassis. I found a draw punch kit
     fromHarborFreight.com that only costs $ 30.00 with different size punches. This is done manualy, no
    need for a drill press and step drill, which I am told does"nt wotk very well anyway. When you get
    to thier web page just type in punches in the search box. Has anyone used draw punches to cut
    holes in thier enclosures? I am going to buy one and check it out and will report back on my findings.
    DK

[ecir38]

The electrical industry calls them knockouts and they will work great for projects like this. You will still want a step drill bit to drill your holes before using the knockouts. If i recall you will need a 1/2" (or 3/4" maybe) hole to use the bigger ones and a good quality step bit will last longer than a 1/2' bit plus you can use the step drill for smaller holes like for rca's. Harbor freight has nice stuff on the cheap but usually doesn't last as long.

I would look for a set of greenlee knockout on ebay or search if you you have any local pawn shops where they are a common find. If you know a electrician more than likely he has a set you can borrow. A used set can be had on ebay for 50 bucks if you are patient on bidding and will last a lifetime. If you decide to try harbor frieghts out let us know how they work out. Harbor Freight has a set of of step bits on sale too for under 10 bucks but again i don't know how long they will last due to the quality.

[samplesj]

I used both Harbor Freight and Greenlee punches (different sizes).  While the HF punches did the job they aren't nearly as "good" as the Greenlee (but less $ than a used Greenlee).

You won't have to use a step bit to make the hole, but if you don't you'll need pretty thick bits because the HF punches do need a lot of space.

Do not buy based on electrical knockout sizes.  A punch for a 1" knockout is bigger than 1".  You want normal chassis punches (or at least double check that the knockout is exactly the size you need).

[AudioSoul]

   Thanks for the info guys! Is'nt this a great forum?.......DK

[AudioSoul]

   Looking for trim rings to trim out holes for tube sockets. Any one know a source?......thanks.......DK

[dnewman]

   Looking for trim rings to trim out holes for tube sockets. Any one know a source?......thanks.......DK

I'm fairly lazy and just used a black indelible marker.  Sure, you can rub it off if you try
but otherwise it will stay on fine.  If you really want something with relief, then look into
grommets similar to those which Jim specs to line the pass-thru holes on some of his
PCBs for transformer wiring (e.g., Chime).

As to stepper bits, you will find that once you get to about 3/8" and larger holes, you can
make cleaner holes with a stepper bit than you can with a twist drill bit, even if you're using
a drill press.   As to draw punches (knockout punches, slug busters), I'd keep clear of the
ones from Harbor Freight: they simply won't last you very long.  Ones from GreenLee or
Deltron will last you a lifetime (unless you're an electrical contractor and then maybe only
10 years or so).  I've been using my own for over 20 years as well as hand me downs from
my father (machinist) and neighbors (electrical contractors).  And yes, I've used some in
the past from Harbor Freight at a friend's: I ended up making a trip back home to get mine.

Cheers,
Dan

[samplesj]

I just used a sharpie on mine too.  It hides the bright al color and blends it with the black nicely.  You really can't see it that well once a tube is in place (especially if you use dampers on them).

If you are going to use some sort of trim ring that is permanent then be sure you oversize the rectifier hole a bit.  When I got my fat base Mullard GZ34 it wouldn't fit without 30 minutes of file work on the chassis.  It'd be a shame to get a nice NOS tube and not be able to use it because the trim ring couldn't be removed.