[fu_man]

(not  sure if this is the right circle for  this  question...?)

I’m  about to try to  apply  a  paper  backed   veneer  to  my  speakers.  They include a curved (in one direction) wall.
The supplier of  the  veneer  recommended using  a  good  quality  (3M)   contact  adhesive, noting that  if  something  goes   wrong it  can be  heated  and  removed.
But  because of the  tricky  curving  I  am  worried  that   I  can not  place it   accurately  first go, so am  worried  about  using a  contact  adhesive.  I was thinking maybe a good PVA glue?  Tight clamping will be difficult too.


Has anyone got any advice from your experience with such things.  I have  been  building these for  almost a  year  now  and the  thought of   stuffing  it  up  on the home straight  has  got me  damn  nervous….

Thanks

[doorman]

http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/Veneering.html
 I've used this method myself numerous times, with no failures.
Contact cement is really nasty !
                                                                            Don

[JoshK]

Curves are not a first project, IMHO.  I had a miserable failure with curves my first go...not saying you can't do it right, but it takes the right setup.

That said, PVA glue, using the iron on method is by far the easiest I've found.  I fear that it won't work for a curved surface though. Vacuum systems are typically used for curved surfaces.  It would be hard to apply the necessary even pressure over the entire surface for a curved surface unless you have a symbiotic hard shape that you can clamp to it.  This is where vacuum bags work well, applying even pressure over the entire irregular surface.

Good luck, but I highly advice practicing on a few smaller scrap pieces before proceeding.  Dampening the wood helps if the wood is highly figured and you are trying to do a tight curve, because busy wood tends to crack.  Do google searches for the iron on method and other methods like vacuum bag method for a better description than I can give on step by step instructions on applying the veneer.  It really helps do it right the first time.

[JoshK]

Agree that contact cement is nasty stuff and really a bitch to work with..  PVA is far far easier IMO and far less toxic.

[Poindexter]

Guys,

There are PVA (I think) glues formulated specifically for the iron-on method.  I'm sorry, I don't know exactly where to find them; Terry Cain sent me a  quart from his stash (his guys were making the Nola speaks on contract and he put  the veneer on like this), but he bought it in 55 gallon drums.

Ah, you probably don't want that much, but he did say that the dedicated adhesive was noticeably  better to work with than regular PVA, which is what they started with.

Aloha,

Poinz

[fu_man]

thanks for the great replies.  If i can find an iron on PVA that seems like the best method.  I'm using  a paper backed veneer, hopefully that's OK with the heat... I'll try a sample first!.

[Ron Stewart]

There are PVA (I think) glues formulated specifically for the iron-on method.  I'm sorry, I don't know exactly where to find them; Terry Cain sent me a  quart from his stash (his guys were making the Nola speaks on contract and he put  the veneer on like this), but he bought it in 55 gallon drums.

Ah, you probably don't want that much, but he did say that the dedicated adhesive was noticeably  better to work with than regular PVA, which is what they started with.

I think you're talking about Heat-Lock Veneer Glue (http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?products_id=738). I haven't used it myself--I've used regular TiteBond for my veneering projects--but several people recommend it highly, including Al Wooley from Raw Acoustics.

Ron

[Daygloworange]

I'm not sure why contact cement is getting such a bad rap. Could anyone elaborate on their bad experiences with it? Just wondering. 


fu_man,

Since you are using paperback, I would strongly recommend contact adhesive. I feel it would be much easier to achieve the results you are seeking. We go through 5 gallon pails by the dozen on veneering and laminate work and don't have any problems at all.

There are a number of threads on the GR Research and RAW Acoustics forums with advice on veneering.

But  because of the  tricky  curving  I  am  worried  that   I  can not  place it   accurately  first go, so am  worried  about  using a  contact  adhesive.

Can you post some pictures of what the curves look like? If you need a little advice, we'll walk you through it. 

Cheers

[Dyak]

http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/veneer.htm

I found this link incredibly informative and very helpful.....just completed my first veneering job and it turned out PERFECT!!!  This was the guide I used.   (also the woodmiser website has lotsa great and "cheap" projects and creations that can really come in handy   http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm    for example)

Unfortunately this link does not cover applying the veneers over/around corners....try a Google search too....

Good Luck and best regards,

Doug

[fu_man]

Ron  -  that  heat Lock   seems  perfect... except they  don't ship internationally  to New  Zealand    But so far  I think that  is  my  preferred method.

Daygloworange -  thanks..   gee I  have forgotten how to post  images...  but   basically it  is a  cone  shape...  about   90cm  diameter  at one  end  and  45cm  at the other -  depth varies   but  around  60cm... so  basically it is  curved  all the  way   round.  Difficult  to  use a  slip  sheet  between the   contact  cement  because of the need to  bend  the  veneer to wrap around  and then need to hold in place - The  heat  set   PVA  should at  least  allow me to take my  time -  though  i better  check a  sample  for   scorching -  cracking (Zebrawood)  and   shrinkage...

[JoshK]

I've never tried the slip sheet method with contact cement, but I've never seen the reason to use contact cement either. Its seriously toxic s**t (better have good ventilation or use outside), dries pretty darn fast (for a newbie) and isnt' very forgiveable (so I've found).  PVA dries slow and if you use the iron on is very easy to position into perfect place before committing, even if you don't get it right at first.  PVA has never done me wrong but contact cement has...but I haven't tried to do curves since my first mishap so maybe I am not the right person to ask.  I'd try vacuum if I tried curves again and didn't have an appropriate clamping system.

Josh

[fu_man]

I think you're talking about Heat-Lock Veneer Glue (http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?products_id=738). I haven't used it myself--I've used regular TiteBond for my veneering projects--but several people recommend it highly, including Al Wooley from Raw Acoustics.

Ron

I've decided  that this is  definitely the way  I am  going to  proceed....   I really want to  try a proprietary  heat  set  glue  like  the "heat-lock"   but   I can't  buy this brand  (no  shipping)   Nnyone  know  any other  brands?

Thanks  for  all of your  advice...   veneer is  cut and  waiting....  palms  sweaty with nervous  anticipation....