PC to stereo for streaming only

JLM · « **on:** 24 Jun 2007, 09:47 am »

Has anyone here tried one of these?

http://www.dak.com/reviews/2045story.cfm?Ref=G&PM=PCtSterol&type=GSrch&Srh=pc_to_stereo_connection

All I'm after is a wired connection (about 25 feet from PC to pre-amp) for background music. The PC is a year old H-P running Windows XP. Looks like I'd have about $45 total invested going this route.

We have a wireless network, but I'd rather avoid touching it due to the continual issues I had with a Squeeze Box. The PC is in the same room, but I can't stand listening on PC speakers.

Thanks for any help.

jermmd · « **Reply #1 on:** 24 Jun 2007, 12:08 pm »

Have you tried a simple male stereo (PC) to RCA adapter? Check these out.

Joe

JLM · « **Reply #2 on:** 24 Jun 2007, 12:12 pm »

The common problems I've read about with simply wiring them together are impedance matching (47,000 ohm vs 8 ohm) and picking up the PCs power supply grounding hum.

t-head · « **Reply #3 on:** 24 Jun 2007, 12:43 pm »

JLM,

I picked up a HiFi link (Xitel Corp) with 30ft shielded, very flexible cable included. $50 retail (find on web for $30). This little DAC hooks up to my laptop via USB. Cable hooks to HiFi link with 1/8" plug and to audio amp with 2 RCAs. I have been streaming internet radio via winAmp for several months now and the sound is really quite good. I have laptop on coffee table near couch. A griffin powerMate volume controller ($30) gives me smooth high-end feeling volume control. Works for me.

richard

NewBuyer · « **Reply #4 on:** 24 Jun 2007, 09:32 pm »

JLM, I'm not sure what this DAK PC-to-stereo product is actually doing right.

On their website they say:

"The output of most sound cards is 8-32 ohms. The Line Inputs of your stereo are 47,000 ohms. Not a good match... So, we've built this special interface that uses two separate Japanese precision wound transformers to convert the 4-32 ohm speaker outputs from your sound card to the 47,000 ohm input impedance of the Line or AUX inputs in your stereo system. The result? It's a perfect impedance match..."

As I understand it, when you connect line-level components, you want the input impedance of the next component (load) to be at least ten times greater than the output impedance of the previous component (source).

You definitely don't want the source output impedance, and the load input impedance, to be equal (as in both at 47k ohms, like their product advertises).

Here's a link that perhaps better explains what I'm trying to say.

So it seems that this DAK product is translating impedances to be equal, which would actually make sound quality worse. What do you think? Am I misunderstanding something here?...

t-head · « **Reply #5 on:** 24 Jun 2007, 10:03 pm »

JLM

HiFi Link solution uses USB external 20 bit DAC instead of headphone jack. Eliminates the problems of PC grunge, ground loops, etc.

Tweaker · « **Reply #6 on:** 25 Jun 2007, 01:15 am »

I didn't know DAK was still around. He has a history of selling pretty cheesy products that don't come close to living up to the hyperbole. I would think you could find something similar of better quality than what he is offering.

JLM · « **Reply #7 on:** 25 Jun 2007, 10:00 am »

Thanks for the advice Tweaker.

martyo · « **Reply #8 on:** 25 Jun 2007, 12:07 pm »

Hi,
I had these same questions and on the Audio by Van Alstine circle there is a thread I started titled "streaming audio" on page 6. It might be helpful to you.

Marty

craig223 · « **Reply #9 on:** 25 Jun 2007, 12:23 pm »

There is a huge amount of info on this topic at headfi.org. Look under the Computer as Source section.

mcgsxr · « **Reply #10 on:** 25 Jun 2007, 07:20 pm »

A good friend of mine has his PC connected to his HT system - the PC lives in a different room in the finished basement, and leverages an RCA cable of at least 25 feet after the simple 1/8th to RCA splitter. It runs through his furnace room, and under carpet etc.

No hum.

Have you tried this JLM, and have hum issues?

JLM · « **Reply #11 on:** 26 Jun 2007, 10:53 am »

Thanks guys for the advice.

I just wanted a "low grade" simple and cheap solution to output internet streaming to my main rig via a 25 foot cable of some sort. Complication is a no-go as is going wireless. BTW I already have a ethernet cable that I tried with a Squeeze Box, but even then ran into glitches that I couldn't easily (or ever) solve. So messing with software/hardware ain't gonna happen.

I didn't want to spend the money to try the simple 1/8 to 1/4 splitter cable approach. If all, I could just leave the door open to the family room and listen to local FM.

If the cost exceeds $100 total, I'll start looking at adding a good DAC to do both CD and PC inputs as I've been thinking about upgrades to my Oppo 970 anyway. If a USB to toslink adapter can be found I could go with Channel Islands Audio VDC-2, otherwise a Benchmark USB DAC.

OTOH by the time I do all that I could just get an Olive music server.

Dazed and confused as always, thanks guys.

konut · « **Reply #12 on:** 26 Jun 2007, 02:28 pm »

http://www.cryo-parts.com/pclink.html

JLM · « **Reply #13 on:** 26 Jun 2007, 04:09 pm »

konut,

I need analog output (that unit only converts USB to coax/toslink). I only have a CDP and pre-amp.

martyo · « **Reply #14 on:** 26 Jun 2007, 04:34 pm »

Hey JLM,

This sure sounds like what you are looking for.

Quote

My prototype tech uses the following unit with excellent results. It plugs into a USB port on your computer and has both audio and standard digital outputs. Coming out the digital out into our Ultra DAC and then on to the system provides playback of uncompressed material stored on the computer the equal to any other CD source. Using the analog audio outputs is not anywhere as musical as you are then using a tiny everything on one chip D to A and filter and analog output circuit.

The unit is called "Instant Music" and is made by ADS Tech. It is available at our local CompUSA for $50, and Dean says he has purchased them on sale for $30.

Frank Van Alstine

You wouldn't be plugging into a DAC, you already know this wouldn't be "hi-fi". Seems to be in your price range?

JLM · « **Reply #15 on:** 26 Jun 2007, 04:53 pm »

martyo,

The "Instant Music" appears to be for loading analog onto the PC. I'm want to listen to internet audio streaming through my stereo.

Ain't this all confusing?

Cryoparts does have a couple of possible cheap solutions, but they're sold with no manual/support.

HiFi link looks the best so far. For more money Obad Imports has the Trends UD-10 for $120.

martyo · « **Reply #16 on:** 26 Jun 2007, 05:30 pm »

Sorry JLM,

Suppose I should actually check out info before I pass it along!

Good Luck

boead · « **Reply #17 on:** 26 Jun 2007, 08:03 pm »

I seems most HiFi source components try to have an impedance below 100Ohms, most consumer grade MidFi seem to be around 3000Ohms.

I use Belden shielded wire popular in studio installation to make up long 50 +/- foot Line level Interconnects. Its not the best solution but it works fine.

I also use RadioShack micro to RCA adapters. The have NO wire, just a short metal bridge. The are really completely transparent, have compared them to expensive fancy-shmancy ones made of silver and blessed by the pope.

I also found that long (50 foot) runs of USB cable is a much better solution to long RCA’s. also I found that Cat-5 cable works horribly carrying USB data. You think it would work well but it doesn’t!!! I simply use a 25 foot USB cable ($8) and a 20 foot USB extension cable ($11) to a USB DAC (in my current case a Scott Nixon) with a 1 meter IC’s. The sound is significantly better in all areas then using a short USB cable and 50 feet of IC.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=090-294&CFID=564057&CFTOKEN=82678503

konut · « **Reply #18 on:** 26 Jun 2007, 10:44 pm »

boead, could you please post a link to those long, and inexpensive, USB cables please?

boead · « **Reply #19 on:** 27 Jun 2007, 05:06 pm »

I just found an online retailer from Google but I think it might have been these guys.

15’ cable
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=332956&CatId=445

15’ Extension Cable
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=788070&CatId=444

I also tried an ‘active’ cable with a repeater and it didn’t help or hurt.

USB 2.0 Active Extension Cable 16 feet
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2329301&CatId=444

The only problems with long USB cables are that many USB devices get some or all of the 5v that it can carry. If the USB device isn’t powered via the USB port then it is of no consequence.

Still, I am easily able to power an M-Audio 7.1 USB Sonica device which does get its power from the 5v USB port and it also works just fine with just two regular USB cable and extension (no repeater necessary).