[ScottRT]

..Is this OK, or does it mean my voltages may be off?

BTW, compared to a new Sovtek 5Y3GT, this tube is more detailed on top, but a little lean in the middle. Fortunately I can change my SUT loading 'on the fly' for my .8mv Benz cart, allowing me to alter 'brightness' quite quickly.

Scott T.

[samplesj]

A lot of old 5Y3 are fast starters.  It just so happens that the Sovtek 5Y3 is a slow start.   Does it slowly turn green with the Sovtek?

A fast starter could potentially wear out the other tubes quicker (heater can't warm the filaments enough first so it strips).

[machine]

Some of these rectifiers are directly heated and the light turns green really fast.

Here is a blurb on the rectifier this was designed around, notice it is "indirectly heated", and will take a while for the green light to come on.

"The Sovtek 5Y3GT tube is an indirectly heated full-wave rectifier tube intended for rectification in general purpose audio equipment. It has a 140 mA maximum output"

Here is a link to what i'm using in one of my Cornet2's http://www.tubedepot.com/nos-6106.html

Bendix 6106 - very nice, many people recommend them and a great price @39.95 too!

[ScottRT]

Thanks for the replies guys...
 The new Sovtek indeed takes about 20 seconds to go green.

What sonic attributes make the Bendix worth 5x more than the Sovtek? And if it's that good, what resistors to I change to which new value to correct the voltage issues this tube has?  I am willing to go to the cost and effort if it's really something special, but nobody has really said WHY they like it.

Scott T.

[samplesj]

I know this is an old line, but they just don't make them like they used to. 

Supposedly lifespan on the new tubes isn't as good as the old ones.  You may never need to switch out a NOS recitifer.  Even if its 15x more from something more exotic its a one shot thing.

Of course you are into the point of diminishing returns so it isn't going to be 5x better.

[machine]

I haven't had much chance to compare Rectifiers - I just got my second Cornet2 and am still buring in my first.

Search around here and you'll find plenty of info on the Bendix, and that is what I based my decision to get one on.

I think your selection of 12au7 and 12aux7's have an impact on what Rectifier sounds the best.
I think i'm gonna try and stick with indirectly heated rectifiers, don't want to take a chance on screwing up any of the other tubes. (think rectifiers can be expensive....)

I've bought a S__t load of rectifier tubes, but I'm a little ways away from critical listening/tube rolling.

Some of the ones I have to play with are:
Bendix 6106 (in Cornet I built)
1969 GE JAN 5Y3WGTB
1959 GE 5 Star GL6087
1974 RCA 5AR4/GZ34 (Mullard Japan)
???? SLYVANIA 5Y3WGTA
Cryoset Sovtek 5Y3GT
Sovtek 5AR4

My voltages on the Cornet I built are all low.
Heater volts 5.2 - 5.4 depending on rectifier, I used all stock Values, so this is a little interesting.
If yours is around spec volts then I don't think you'll have to change any resistors.

Still have some things to check out - line voltage, transformer outputs, etc.
With a second Cornet2, I can see what it reads for comparision.

All-in-all the Cornet sounds great as is, and If both have low volts, I'll mod one so I can compare.
I believe they both use the AuriCaps and only differ in the resistors, so it should be a pretty good comparison.

[samplesj]

My voltages on the Cornet I built are all low.
Heater volts 5.2 - 5.4 depending on rectifier, I used all stock Values, so this is a little interesting.
If yours is around spec volts then I don't think you'll have to change any resistors.

Still have some things to check out - line voltage, transformer outputs, etc.
With a second Cornet2, I can see what it reads for comparision.

Isn't the heater circuit totally seperate from the recitifer?  It comes straight from the transformer taps to the diodes.  Maybe double check them.  When I had one bad I read about the same voltages.  I'm not sure you can read the transformer outputs and have them mean much.  When I had a "bad" diode in my Chime I couldn't read the proper voltage from at transformer output BEFORE the diodes either.

Of course the normal voltages will be lower/higher with different rectifiers, but I didn't think it would alter the heater voltages.  I'm pretty sure since I did test one of my C series kits with both a 5Y3 and 5AR4 and the heater voltages didn't change.

[SHIF]

...what resistors to I change to which new value to correct the voltage issues this tube has?  ...

Scott,

Measure the B+ voltage after R221, it should be 330v.  You may need to adjust the value of R220 and R221 to achieve 330v with the Bendix or any other rectifier.  Just be darn careful making measurements on the thing when it's powered up.  Best to clip your test leads in place prior to powering up.

-S 

[Julien43]

"Best to clip your test leads in place prior to powering up."

Excellent safety tip!