[Arctos]

I have been out of the audio thing for a while, but have gotten the bug again.  I am considering trying my first shot at separates (I have been using an integrated amp so far).  My ability to demo equipment is limited due to time and proximity.  I need to keep this low budget as well, so I'm trying to keep it under $700.  So far my short list is:

IRD MB-100's (lot's of reviews available on these)
ATI 1202 (little info available on this model; anyone heard this one?)

Any thoughts on how these would compare to each other?  I am currently using Norh 5.1SM's, but will be finishing some DIY Seas/Meniscus floor-standers soon.

Also, I am considering a passive pre-amp and have been impressed with what I have heard about the Creek model (OHB-22?).  Simple is good, but I want a remote.

Thanks

[JLM]

At this price range and wanting separates with remote, I'd be looking hard at the used market if you want more than entry level audiophile stuff (like Rotel or B&K).  At twice your budget it'd still be very hard for new separates to beat a new integrated. 

Passive pre-amp with remote alone is almost an oximoron.  Channel Island Audio sells one, but as its only been recently introduced, there's little chance of a used one coming up and the retail price would more than shoot your entire budget.  Adding a pair of their 100 watt monoblock amps would push the price to $2500 (plus interconnects), but it'd be great stuff.  Just to give you an idea of what you're up against.  You could do cheaper, but it wouldn't be in America by a "real" (not cottage) company, separates with remote, or audiophile grade IMO.  Here's their site:

http://www.ciaudio.com/


A nice American built integrated with remote ($1650) would be:

http://www.avahifi.com/root/equipment/control_amplifier/index.htm


What are you using now (to give us an idea of what you're coming from)?

[Arctos]

I'm currently using an AMC 3050a integrated amp connected to an AMC CD8b cd player with Zu Disco interconnects, Kimber 4pr homemade speaker wires and Norh 5.1SM speakers.  A few years back when I made the move from a 20-year old Harman Kadon receiver to the AMC I was impressed with the difference.  I am hoping to realize another jump in clarity, resolution and imaging by moving to separates.  To clarify my budget, I can spend up to $700 on amplification and maybe another $400 or so on a pre-amp.  I am not opposed to going with another, better integrated if this will give me the best bang for the buck.

Thanks

[Bob Reynolds]

I need to keep this low budget as well, so I'm trying to keep it under $700.  So far my short list is:

IRD MB-100's (lot's of reviews available on these)
ATI 1202 (little info available on this model; anyone heard this one?)

Also, I am considering a passive pre-amp and have been impressed with what I have heard about the Creek model (OHB-22?).  Simple is good, but I want a remote.

Thanks

I can vouch for an ATI amp. I use the AT602 in my office system with an NHT Passive Volume Control ($100). Build quality, engineering and warranty of the ATI is very good. Best value I know.

But, if you have to have remote, at your budget, I'd take a look at the Outlaw stereo receiver. It was favorably reviewed in Stereophile. http://www.outlawaudio.com/

Add one of the Hsu Research or Outlaw subwoofers later and you'll have a nice system.

[Bob Reynolds]

I'm currently using an AMC 3050a integrated amp connected to an AMC CD8b cd player with Zu Disco interconnects, Kimber 4pr homemade speaker wires and Norh 5.1SM speakers.  A few years back when I made the move from a 20-year old Harman Kadon receiver to the AMC I was impressed with the difference.  I am hoping to realize another jump in clarity, resolution and imaging by moving to separates.  To clarify my budget, I can spend up to $700 on amplification and maybe another $400 or so on a pre-amp.  I am not opposed to going with another, better integrated if this will give me the best bang for the buck.

Thanks

Sorry, I missed your last post.

If your budget is in the $1100 range, then the top NAD integrated, C372 ($900) is rated Class B in the most recent Stereophile. A friend is using it to drive a pair of Maggies and seems happy with it.

For a little more money the Creek Classic 5350SE has been a standout for years and is Stereophile rated Class A.

Either one of these integrateds will let you completely separate the preamp and the amp so that you can insert a high pass filter when adding a subwoofer.

The best inexpensive separates I can suggest are the entry Parasound Halo: A23 and P3. Cost new around $1600. They have the advantage of using balanced lines.

[rollo]

Arctos,

           What is the sensitivity of your speakers? Knowing this will enable you to choose the right amp. If its high say 92DB or better consider Tripaths as they are inexpensive[could buy two and biamp] and upgradeable. Also go to [email protected] and have a look.
           A passive pre such as the Promitheus and an SET or Push Pull will make you very happy IMO.

  rollo

[Arctos]

Thanks for all the good advice!  There are so many options out there that it is hard to stop the research process and start the buying process.

Bob, I have heard great things about the NAD unit, but am really surprised that they have the horespower do drive the Maggies.  I will try to check one out.

rollo,
My current speakers are about 87DB sensitivity, so low power is not an option.  Does anyone make reasonably priced, higher power Tripath amps?  While I really like some of the tube gear I have heard over the years, I am more of a low maintenance person and don't want to deal with tube changing, etc.

Arctos

[rajacat]

For $795 Hypex based amp 90w/ch.
http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=616
Raj

[bluewax]

At the risk of being slightly over budget, I'd recommend considering the EVS monoblocks:
http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?ampstran&1177805909

Cheers, bw

[JLM]

I'll second the EVS if you want to go digital.  (Not a good or bad thing to me but opinions, particular from vendors who don't sell them, vary.)

With relatively high source output levels (around 2 volts) there has been much interest in the last couple of years for passive pre-amps (eliminate unnecessary circuits/sound/cost) as the additional amplication isn't necessary.  Ric's (EVS) ultimate attenuators for $200 is one such route.  As I mentioned Channel Islands Audio has one with remote for $900, or a simple one without for $300.  Rollo's suggestion of the Promitheus uses transformers (a type that has been talked about a great deal lately) with prices starting around $350.   The main concerns with the Promitheus is delays in receiving from a small shop in Malaysia, sound build quality/shipping hazard issues, and the constant state of tweaking that the product has been offering.  But within your budget you'll have to decide between top drawer sound and convenience.

BTW, most feel that the main advantage of balanced connections is for long/parallel runs of interconnects as used in recording studios or temporary PA applications and that without going balanced throughout your system it has little benefit anyway.

[ctviggen]

For me, I just like balanced better.  I like the connectors much better, for instance.  It also gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling to know that I could possibly be ridding my system of some common-mode noise such as DC coupling.  I've never had ground loops with balanced connections but have them all the time with unbalanced.  On the other hand, balanced interconnects (and preamps, amps, etc.) are more -- sometimes much more -- expensive than their unbalanced counterparts. 

[Bob Reynolds]

The main advantage of balanced lines is to cancel common mode noise. Unbalanced lines will usually handle any distance in most consumer systems. XLR connectors provide a more robust connection than RCAs.

Blue Jeans Cable makes excellent balanced cables and they are very reasonably priced.

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/balancedaudio/index.htm

A 3 foot pair of Belden 1800F is a little over $50.

++++++

Arctos, my friend using the NAD with Maggies is in an apartment so he never listens very loud. For DVDs, he high-passes them with the crossover in his subwoofer.