[samplesj]

I bought a used MMF9 with the stock MH Eroica a month or so ago.  I still don't have my cornet2 phono pre for the 2 channel system so right now it lives in the HT system with a Denon 4806 and a pair of GR AV/3.

Because the receiver's phono preamp isn't stellar (and I want to make sure I'm not hurting my records) I've not listened to more than a dozen lps, but I have a question.

How big is the stylus supposed to be?  I could swear when I first got it, the diamond was visible with the naked eye.  However on the second day I had it, I didn't discharge static at the end of a side and got zaped HARD when I touched the arm.  When it bit me I dropped it and the stylus bounced a couple of times.  Yes I know you are supposed to use the lever, but I didn't even think about it.  It was a really stupid move, but this is the first turntable I've used in a long time.  I do know better now

It sounds great, but I do get more surface noise than I expect for RCM cleaned records.   On certain records I get a bit of sibilance, but I don't know if its the specific recording, the phono preamp or something else.  I was thinking the noise was due to the cheap phono in the receiver or a bad classic pressing (because of all the noise issues people have reported at AA).  The cantilever does glide above the record and with 10x magnification I see a tiny nub of a tip, but I wonder if I've broken most of the tip off and that is really the source of the noise.  I don't have anything handy with greater than 10x, but I'm hunting a good loupe to get a better look.  Until then I can't really be sure, but I wondered if anyone had seen this cartridge or the non-OEM equivalent and could tell me if the stylus was visible easily?

If it is trashed anyone have any good recommendations for a cartridge?  On vinyl its going to be mostly classical music.

[lcrim]

Breaking a diamond is very unlikely.  You may have bent the cantilever which are typically aluminum tubing or another light weight metal tubing like boron.  I don't know off hand how the stylus is adhered in a Goldring Eroica, Audio-technica uses adhesive but generally a hole is made in the cantilever and the diamond is set into it and heat bonded in various ways.  The stylus is quite a bit harder than vinyl but the cantilever is fairly flimsy.
If you end up replacing it, look for a cart of similar characteristics.  The tonearm is meant to be used with a cartridge of similar mass and compliance.
Your phono stage, which again I'm not familiar with, hasprobably got around 36-40 dB gain and loads the cart @ 47K ohms.  Check out these specifications to be sure and then make your selection with these conditions in mind.

[Psychicanimal]

You need to see the stylus/cantilever under magnification.  Anything else would be speculating.

Keep us posted.

[samplesj]

You need to see the stylus/cantilever under magnification.  Anything else would be speculating.

Keep us posted.

The whole problem is just that I've never really seen a good cartridge's stylus at all.  Its been so long since I'd even seen a table.  Since I'd never seen a good stylus I didn't have a clue how big it should be.  I've tried pocket magnifying viewers and a regular round magnifying glass, but I don't have enough gain.  I need to find a nice loupe or something like that.

I suspect there is nothing wrong because it does still sound pretty good considering the receiver is doing phono duties.  After digging around on the web all the pictures of the MH/Goldring cartridge show a very short stylus.

I had to deviate from working on the HagTech Cornet2 because its gotten really warm around here and I had to rig up some quick computer case fans to cool a reef tank ASAP, but the rest of my punches should come in for this weekend so I hope to recase it then.

If I upgrade or have to replace then I know I'll need at least 2.5mv to keep full gain based on the phono pre/pre/amp sensitivity.  The loading is noise since its a DIY project and I can change resistors as needed (I'm starting with 47k of course since most MM and HO MC want to see that).  Unfortunately the carbon arm is very light so I think I'd need a med/high compliance cartridge.

Thanks to both of you for helping stop my panic, I'll still try to get a better look, but for now I'm not sure its broken.

[TheChairGuy]

Yeah, samplesj, no panic needed - this is all just fun and games 

I noticed the high output and low output Goldring Eroicas are quite different in respect to output (of course), but also stylus tip mass.  The low output version is sports an excellent 0.35mg figures, while the high output version is a piggish 0.60mg.  To put it in context, you can buy a $40 Grado or AudioTechnica with lower tip mass than that.

It may well be a good cartridge in many ways, but higher tip mass will always lead to poorer tracking, all other things being equal. It is simply too much weight to lug around the grooves to accurately and responsively follow the music.  Hence, you get that sibilance you mention.  It should be particularly noticeable towards the inner grooves and during very loud, demanding passages in classical.  Your stylus is literally jumping out of the groove, creating mistracking and is quite possibly the source of sibilance you are hearing.  A $50 Audio-Technica will cure it...but it may not be in all ways better; merely better in tracking.

On input loading, Moving Magnets can range from 10Khz to 75Khz or so.  Using Mr. Hagermans cartridge loading calculation you no longer have to guess, tho: http://www.hagtech.com/loading.html

You plug in inductance and total capacitance of your wiring and any in paralell at yoru input to reach the correct loading.  Not all moving magnets should be 47K it is just the bog standard setting on all phono's today and it has become the 'norm'.  But, it is not optimal, it is just the dumbed-down norm.

HOMC's are actually more correctly loaded closer to 1khZ.  Goldring is one of the few cartridge makers that is very forward with inductance figures.  Plug in 0.2 for inductance and your total capacitance of your wiring (you did not mention your table, but if it's Japanese table with captive leads it's likely somewhere around 125).  Plug those in and you'll find optimal to be closer to 1khZ.  If you have it set too high (like at 47K) you might find rising (ie, brighter) top end and hear more of the surface noise of the record, too - even if it's cleaned quite well.

Hope this helps.  Don't jump off a bridge or anything - there are reasons for most things